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I should have grabbed more... I just bought one from www.toyotapartszone.com a couple of months ago and it was the metal armored one... copper is a good idea though, will probably go that route if needed in the future...

Also keep in mind, you have numerous sensors on the motor that are supplied voltage, so make sure you either have them connected (removed from motor or accessories to motor and connected to harness) or isolate the connectors to insure none of them is shorted to ground... ie - TPS, ICSV, AFM, O2...

Sorry OP, don't mean to go off track but would like to make a comment... Be careful of making such generic statements as above... There are numerous reputable Ebay stores that sell HKS, Greddy, Comitech etc... This also goes for other reputable types of parts (auto and other) and manufactures...

Thanks Kenny! Ok, that makes perfect sense... Of course you know me... As it is I am still running 10.8 to 10.9... So I would probably do 11.2/3 and let it drop to 10.7/8... Better to have a little less power for 150k miles than no power sitting in the shop with a hole in the block:icon_bigg

You must not get milk and bread the way I do :evil2: I like to pretend that there is only one loaf of bread and one gallon of milk left in the county... if I don't get them before anyone else, my family may starve... ok ok I am joking... yeah this is the reason I like the idea... used only when...

Appears to be a miss-communication... thought I would try to clear up before if continues... See quotes below: I believe Colin was responding to the OP, stated "use the maft pro as well along with it??" when stated that they were stand alone products... meaning stand alone from each-other not...

Keep tracing backwards from your pump and see when you gain your 12vdc power, perhaps issue with relay or FP resistor. Also is there power at the b+ terminal to ground? Do you ahve good continuity from Fp to your fuel pump connector that you said you are not getting power. If you pulled...

+2... except my considering is of more recent :icon_bigg... I am thinking of the KS-4, then send output to AEM Truboost to shutdown boost controller in the event of knock detected... Using one on a dyno once, would of course help with proper tuning and not over extending the 7M, but a setup...

Fair enough, when I asked the question, I knew in the back of my mind that it was probably not a question that could be fairly answered... But your approach makes all the sense in the world. I am in no way looking for a band-aid, I think my tune is fairly solid (but I am not a seasoned pro)...

I bought one from a member on here during my re-build, not sure if he is still doing them or not... but mine works perfect with about 10k now on it. I would not dare say that he is still selling them at the same price, but at the time he was selling them for $115.00 User-name is - Halsupramk3

IJ, please correct me if I am incorrect, but methanol is a fuel, thereby if you are adding fuel beyond what the ECU is telling the injectors to flow, then you will run richer than without. I believe the water is simply to keep Cylinders cooler... thereby reducing the risk of denotation. So my...

Because hopefully there are enough of us that listen to your sound advise to make it worth your time... I am sure you have a lot of other things you could be doing other than answering questions on here, the time you invest is appreciated by MANY of us!

Hey Kenny - So how goes this project? Have you started yet? I am seriously thinking of doing this same upgrade sometime this spring, so a couple of questions I have thought of and perhaps helping to keep this thread on the fresher side... So I know the notes that you found on tuning in...

Of course unless he is speaking of the Constantly Problematic Starter (CPS) :icon_bigg

I am with Safeco and have my listed as $10,000 for value... Though I do not think you can't list it as your DD, I have 2 other vehicles on policy so not for sure, my insurance agent set it up, whom is a 3rd party agent not employee of Safeco

By the way, maybe too late for you, but for all of us that have 1990 or earlier Supras, you can list it as a classic car and then list it's value, instead of them going off of blue book... You pay for it in the premium, but my experience, it did not add a lot to my policy.

If you do, I would also at minimum throw away the EGR cooler gasket, the turbo flange gasket and intake manifold gaskets

Yeah I should have... I guess I have never been one for making an engine bay pretty... for sure I like clean and oil free... but it is my DD that sees 40k a year and 1/2 of that is in the rain in the NW... so it is hard enough keeping the paint looking respectable let alone the engine bay...

Thank you for correction... I meant the input shaft, not main shaft... and yeah again "doh" if the flywheel and input shaft are the same speed the pilot bearing is not doing anything... sorry if I added any confusion...

I am not certain on a 6 puck, but my stock one started slipping before I did my rebuild last winter and I drove it for about 5,000 miles... still was drivable when I tore it down. 1st thing I would do if I were you is stay out of boost, by either modifying your WG setup or controller... It will...