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I wouldn't use the word "sick" as I am well over 30 lol, but I would have to agree, I still like the pre 89 from straight on better (outside of the camber issue)... but we all have or humble opinions... and of course we think ours is right... as if we didn't then they would not be our...

You need to measure the following: Current Deck to VC surface = x2 Current Deck to MB Saddle = y2 Stock Deck to VC surface = x1 Stock Deck to MB Saddle = y1 IIRC stock compressed HG is 1.37mm x1 - x2 = x3 y1 - y2 = y3 x3 + y3 + 1.37 = your need HG thickness I do not recall...

I do not have an issue with it either, although if we get too many more cars than we expect, we may start to run out of room... Perhaps use the over-flow area for parking to begin with on the west side... One other thought, hopefully would go without mentioning, but Supra meets are known for...

AMEN to that... That is why we have 3 cars... they are all paid for and the newest is a '97... They are all reasonable to fix and if one breaks... you have two others to drive while you take the time to pull the broken one in the shop and FIX it RIGHT... The demands of needing it for a daily...

Yeah my thoughts exactly... We are all supposed to be mind readers... Other great one's... WTF? Have you seen this Help I don't understand sorry do not mean to take this off the subject... A Boost Controller is helpful if you are running something besides stock boost or a larger turbo etc...

Sounds like the re-torque after 5 heat cycles perhaps did not happen after engine build? I know you bought the motor, but not sure if it was run before you bought it or not... Hopefully someone else will chime in, you may or may not have done some damage... but it sounds like your torque...

I like em all, but owning an '88, it was what I was really looking for, as when I was 18, in 1990, I test drove a 2 year old used 1988 supra turbo... wow said one day I gotta own one of these... 19 years later I bought one... same year, same setup... I do like the front of the pre 89... but as...

My personally opinion if I saw this ad - I would rather the re-build had 5k miles on it, versus 0 miles... I have no experience with the 1JZ, so will not comment, but unless a motor came with a warranty, not sure I would buy anyone's motor with 0 miles on it... who knows if they did anything...

How cheap are you getting 100LL? or should I say how expensive it your 91? In WA, I am paying $4.08 for 92, but AvGas is somewhere along $4.75 to $4.99... Anyone have comments about using 100LL in a 7m, you being in CA, I assume have Cats on your car or are you off-road only (technically...

Poodles - Yeah I gotcha there, I did suggest that he get the timing monitor connected so that I could watch it in the log... Mine is connected for that reason... jdmfreak - I would have to agree with Poodles on that one... I am running a stock cap (IIRC 13psi) I am at 17psi of boost and never...

Hey poodles, as you saw, I have been assisting Shawn with the MaftPro - not being a great mind reader :icon_bigg I am missing your thoughts on what you think the entire issue could be... I will be the first to admit that I am not an expert, did you see something in that thread that I missed that...

So it should be T'd off the AFPR? Hmm yeah I can see the potential, I have not seen any problems that I have noticed, but this is good info... It was reading IIRC 101 at KO, so I think it is ok and as you see with his latest post, I think he is saying that the gauge and MP are now reading about...

To others reading - I am not agreeing or disagreeing with the entire idea of the vacuum system layout, as we already discussed while he was at my place, the concerns I had with several systems that were removed prior to him buying the car/motor... So with that said - I would to be certain of...

I am not disagreeing with several statements made on here in regards to shrouds, under-trays etc... as I think it is best to have all of them... All I would say, is that I do not think that in itself would cause the drastic over-heating that I witnessed while sitting in this car... mine running...

Did you already tell me that you connected 2nd fan (stock A/C) up to switch, but made no difference? Also I assume you had not overheating the whole way home on Friday - right? So it is only stop n go and idle? For others reading - keep in mind it is still only in the 40s or 50s, so still...

Just leave it on the 30psi that you said it was at for now, as long as your AFRs look good, we will fine tune the pressure once you are up here... (I know we discussed on txt lol, but for the benefit of anyone else reading the thread thought I would post anyway)

This is on the horizon, the issue that we were trying to brainstorm (we being a couple of maftpro owners) on is the ECU throwing a code for the TPS, I am not sure if anyone knows for 100% if the ECU alters any of its algorithms when it has a code for any type of self-protection... I simply do...

Yes and no... how is that for an answer... the TCCS actually will go into open loop before WOT, as far as I am aware it is an algorithm with several factors that the ECU decides to go into open loop, for example, if I hold 6psi of boost at 70% throttle lets say for more than 2 or 3 seconds, it...

Yeah the long indicates that the ECU is reading the signal from your LC-1 and it appears to be a pretty stable idle, in regards to both AFRs and your Vf... With the 440's you can still get some more out of it with your stock pump if it is in food performance shape... If you can still get the...

Yeah that would be my fault :3d_frown: The good is that I am local... the bad is that I am new to this group, so I am not aware of all of the other sites that this info should be posted on... I am ignorantly dedicated to SM :icon_bigg Any help is appreciated or if someone has a list, I can...