Yeah the coolant temp sensor is green and has a green wire and a brown wire and is located by the power steering res. if you do a search for "coolant temp sensor" there is another one of my posts where another member posted a link to the electrical wire diagram. I guess if it is faulty or not...
So i found out that my engine coolant temp sensor had no signal and i got that fixed and it started right up. My question is what pressure should i run on my aeromotive AFPR with 550cc injectors and stock fuel pump. It seems to run best at around 40 or 45. No i don't plan on leaving it that...
Wilwood BBK's give me ummm..................... anyway I've been doing the same thing kind of. Since my headgasket blew i've probably spent 3-4k on upgrades so far. LOL my car isn't running quite yet but i'm looking forward to my BIC DDP and upgraded turbo and fuel system. Anyway good luck.
Yes thanks so much i have not had a chance to hook it all up with the holidays and all but that is about as useful and informational as it gets. thanks for the help.
That it would be.....................but anyone with some useful info for me in the mean time would be greatly appreciated. Or if someone can just look at their connector and tell me which wires go on which side in relation to the flat side of the connecter or the side with the raised part.
Ok so i finally figured out that the connector on my coolant temp sensor is shot and hopefully that will stop all of my starting issues along with code 22. The problem is that the connector broke and the wires came out. So now i don't know which wire went to which side or if it even matters...
I'm trying to find out if anyone knows Michael Gray he lives in NM and his SN is "poizinous" on Ebay. I bought a 89+ bumper from him on ebay and after two months nothing still. I have been very understanding of the whole situation. All i have is his name and a phone number. He keeps telling me...
If that doesn't work and you suspect the battery take it to checker/kragen/schucks or whatever the hell it is and they will test it for you for free. If neither of those work you might want to check out some of the fuses.
Not to mention getting much less even wear and tread life from your tires.I would much rather spend $400 on more mods than to replace tires, but that is just my poor ass.
OK so i just got my car all back together after the BHG got it home after the 30mile drive it ran great by the way. Then i discovered that there was a fuel leak. The injector orings were bad, causing the leak. Anyway while it was apart i added a lexus afm, 550cc injectors, and a aeromotive AFPR...
The 14" wheel thing would be cool but the stock brake calipers are too big to fit a 14" on. So to take it a step further, just take the brakes off and you save some weight too.................while maintaining the tire roasting ability.
So I know that I must be making this much harder than it really is but any help would be appreciated. My key would come out of the ignition while the car was in the "ON" position not too good IMO. Anyway i recently got a new set of locks for the whole car and for some reason the ignition is a...
Depending on what kind of squeaks and when it makesthe noise it could be a lot of things......
bushings, wheel berrings, brakes ...............but i'm also in agreement of the use of SUBS to drown out the noise. LOL.
I had the same issue and i think it was the five wires on the underside of the intake mani somehow i missed them when i did my injectors and fpr. The car would not crank at all. Also i ended up finding out my battery was shot.
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