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Well I tested how far the wg door can open with my DDP and spare turbo. This is the result. So I would say the DDP is not preventing it from opening fully?

So here is my wastegate door fully open... And my DDP... Clearly the door can't open fully and its hard to tell just how far it opens but what should this have to do with over boosting? shouldnt it make the boost come on slower? What concerns me is the wastegate arm.. I doubt it...

Yea at this point I'm pretty sure it's the wastegate malfunctioning. I applied pressure to it with a pump and it barely moved but I dunno how much pressure it needs to move. My spare wg moved with just a tad of pressure but it's also not having to open the wg door...

Honestly I dunno. I haven't had the stock exhaust for about 2 years since I got the car. I'm pretty sure the DP is not causing the wastegate to open fully. Plenty of room in there when I looked last. My engine and turbo had 197,000 miles on it and had sat in a warehouse for 9 years so could...

No my wastegate is not shimmed. And yea without a boost controller it goes to 12 or past to FC. So think it's the wastegate?

I agree with you on just running the stock vacuum hose for the wg without a boost controller. That's how it SHould work! For me I had better luck with my ebc plugged in. The boost came on less hard and I got it to redline once by accident without FC. My ddp is recirculated back into the...

At what pressure should the wg open? Cause I have a spare wg and it opens easily when I hook it to a bicycle pump. Not so much the wg I'm running on the turbo. It was hard to push open with that or at all?

Yes I have a prosport boost gauge. It mostly spikes and hits FC at 12psi on the gauge.

Yea the lines are run correctly.

First off let me say I searched, but no information I have turned up so far has helped me solve my problem. The PROBLEM: My car has overboosted since before I can remember. I have tried using a manual boost controller to set the boost at the lowest setting possible but I would still hit fuel...

Just the pump shimmed. My oil pressure is not the red line it's exactly the same as the needle pictured in this pic. So it would be normal then. I think I have a boost leak though? Help me out guys... Stock ct26 with stock wg hose connected (No boost controller) 3" DDP re-circulated 3"...

I think I ended up with 3 washers cause originally I had 5 but then JDMMA70 measured the washers for me and 5 of them would have been more than 5mm worth. Maybe I will get an after market gauge?

Yea the stock oil pressure gauge is sitting a bit low at start up before I drive but once I drive it idles normal. Maybe it's just the gauge? You said yourself its a low pressure system! Took some pics and video this evening... Be sure to watch in high quality as they look...

Drive went great! No leaks! I'm going to put my high flow cat back on. Clean my cars interior and give it a good wash!

Well I'm gonna look at the drips again and see about the power steering before I leave.

Hmm... Waterpump is no longer leaking! I still have BRAKE FLUID dripping from the bell housing front cover. It seems as though it is slowing down dripping. I wonder if the bell housing just had left over brake fluid in it from the busted old slave cylinder? Possibly? My exhaust at the test...

Just got word that I will have both a new slave cylinder and water pump gasket this afternoon as they both came in today! Now I can fix my leaks and drive thursday to break her in! No wonder why my damn transmission has brake fluid coming out of it! It wasn't oil from the real main seal. It...

Should be... I got the RTV sealant. Maybe I will have my slave cyl today also but I'm thinking that might be a pain to replace cause of the hard lines?

Candy paint air force one's!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=op1avHHnLII