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Yeah I put in a new master cylinder and all is well again, once again SM comes to the rescue. Thanks all!

As far as i can tell its only the front two that are hot once it locks up, haven't had time to check the master cylinder but I will check it first thing in the morning

yeah i have abs, i will check the master cylinder tonight

The thing is the brakes seem to work fine, it's after a bit of driving that it starts to lock up. Wheels roll fine.

Ok so heres the story, I was heading back home on a 2 hour drive when at the 1 hour thirty mark my brakes begin to lock up after i let off the brakes to slow down. I got the car towed home which took about 45 minutes and the brakes released at this time. so I decided to check the brake booster...

so are my findings with measuring amps mean that there is current flow and that my pump is faulty? sorry for the noob question cause im not electrically inclined like some of you guys, just need conformation

with the multimeter set at 2000u the read out reads 008 no deciamls, did i do this right?

ok B+ key on 12v checked, everything ok.

car is in garage, temp is fine. ok maybe i dont hear the fuel pump when the key is in the on position, but i do hear it when the car is running. in any case there is no nose of any sort at the fuel regulator when fp is jumped to b+ with the key on

Ok so here we go, car started up fine ran for a few minutes then started to hesitate then die. checked everything then i noticed the fuel pump not turning on. the fuel pump is stock and i can usually hear it when i turn the key to the on position. checked fuel pump relay per tsrm and everything...

well heres an update. got the new cps in and it fired up right away....ran like a dream, set the timing 12 degrees, and let it idle, about a minute later it starts missing then eventually dies. check codes and I have a code 12. well the tach does jump when i try to turn it over. thats all i have...

when it started and died it happened only about twice....it just turns over, thats it, no sputtering no nothing, ill be getting a call tomorrow hopefully, man its almost one month now i haven't driven my car!

Ok so i wanted to update with the situation and see if you guys had any input. I finally got fed up and took it to a shop that specializes in auto electrical, after diagnosis they have narrowed it down to being the CPS.....they said they would let me know in the morning after more tests if this...

lol yeah i realized that, im learning a lot about electrical through this ordeal, are there any common problems with the efi system that you guys are aware of that my cause my problem, just asking because between going to school full time and working full time its just taking me time to trace...

Hey so i got a used fuel pump relay and it still doesn't work. i checked for continuity and came up with the same readings as i did before there was continuity between b+ and Fp and then there was 77ohms between b+ and fpr and no continuity between b+ and Pr. these were the same measurements i...

well ordered a new relay, thanks for the help, guess the only way to get rid of the relay is by doing the 12volt mod but thats a no no for a stock pump.....again thanks for the help

is there anyway to bypass the relay? just wondering cause i need to get to work! haha if not oh well ill bum a ride

using the tsrm.....b+ to fp has continuity, b+ to FPR has NO continuity, b+ to PR has no continuity. My multimeter has a function where it buzzes if there is continuity.....so with that said looks like i need a new relay thanks abunch for your help guys, always reliable as usual!

stock pump, fuel system is stock

so heres the back story, car started to hesitate then completely die. Got it towed home and I pulled code 11, so got that fixed then a code 14 popped up turns out i had a bad igniter, got that replaced. she fired up right away then it died a few minutes later. No codes were present. i jumped the...