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I looked at going Holset as well. When I was doing my research, the smoking oil issue arises from the oil pressure being to high. I can't remember what you call it, but you need to put something inline with the oil line to the turbo to knock the pressure down a bit. Also, when looking for...

I'm looking at the BW EFR 7163 (I think that's the model). It's not a very big turbo but should make 550hp on a 1J. Spool will be very stock like too. Hoping to get it this spring but will see how things go. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I spent this summer putting on a spare set of twin turbos on my car only to find out they are no good either. I've got a BW EFR turbo in mind. Should have close to stock spool. I'm like you, want a powerful streetable car. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I'm interested in the same thing. What little I have found out is if you are 2" out of compressor housing to inter cooler, keep the 2" until you get to IC. The pressure drop will help it cool the air. From IC to engine I have no idea...I have no way to verify if that was good info though. Maybe...

This looks to be some great info! Thanks! I ended up deciding to go with a BW EFR turbo instead because in Canada getting a rebuilt Holset turbo was going to set me back $1000CDN. Once I added all the custom piping and BOV / Wastegate, it was basically the same price as the BW EFR. Just need to...

Hi folks, I could really use some help piecing together what I'd need to build a single turbo kit for my 1JZ MK3 Supra. I want the Holset HE351CW. Here is what I think I'm going to need. - XSPower T3 Manifold (w/ wastegate flange) - Custom Downpipe (Only need 3" as I'm getting downpipe...

Yeah I tried but they didn't seem to want to budge. I ended up using a sawsal on two studs on the rear turbo to get it off. Going single now. Screw putting on another set of twins. [emoji1] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I found one non-supra website that said that all Holset turbos are T3 hotside adapters (exhaust)...not sure if that's correct. Also from what I can see from pictures is that the HX35 is a divided housing (12cm^2) and the he351Cw is a non-divided housing (9cm^2). Doing a HX35 with a QSV would...

I'm somewhat confused, on eBay they seem to lump HY35W and he351Cw together (sometimes also grouping with HY35). If I were to buy one of these on eBay, how do I tell the difference (if there is any)? Also I cannot for the life of me find if it's a T4 or T3 connection...

Well, my stock twins on my 1JZGTE are spent so I decided to remove them. I just spent the better part of a week removing them with the intent to put on a spare set I have however after spending way to much time removing the twins and having to use a Sawzall to cut some studs to get them off I...

I'm stuck...I have disconnected everything and I cannot get the rear Y-pipe off of the rear turbo due to lack of space (I tried a pry bar to push the engine forward a bit and the best I could do was loosen the bolt). I have everything else undone and my problems is that I cannot slide the whole...

If you're leaking oil down the back of your engine, chances are you have a leaking valve cover gasket which is also leaking into your spark plug galley. This oil can cause your misfire. Check your coil pack boots for oil. I just went through this on my 1JZ. Great looking twins. I'm in the midst...

I've tried jiggling cables when I was having the issue and I haven't had much luck with it (car runs great when cool, only have the issue once it's warmed up). I know which wires connect the two as I did a continuity test on them. The weird thing is that the last 5 times I've had the problem, it...

So I got another igniter and it is still doing the same thing. I think it must be my ECU. I'm going to check the continuity of my cam and crank sensor wires then I'll start looking at ECU replacement options. I checked the continuity of all the wires between my ECU and igniter as well as between...

I should mentioned I got that screen shot from this website. http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/articles/engine_2_14.htm Also used this igniter pin out to find IGF on my ignitor...

In the image below it seems to say that if you are getting 4.5-5 volts on the IGF wire that you should replace the igniter. Is that correct? When I did this test at home I got 4.5v. Can someone please explain the step three in the picture, I'm not sure I'm doing it right? I tested IGF from the...

Thanks Martin! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great advice F00g00, I'll have a look next time. I did have to solder a wire that goes to my igniter. I soldered it pretty well and then used heat shrink on it. Do you think that might cause my problem? I brought the car to a local shop and they re-soldered it just in case and used heat shrink...

It snowed today so I couldn't do any more test drives...My car is a left hand drive with a 1JZ transplant completed by driftmotion. To get at the Cam Sensors, do you have to remove the intake? I'm not standing by my car, but I would think I would have to remove the IACV for sure?