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Dont do anything with the front diff seal teh only way you can readjust it corectly is to remove the diff and check preload of the pinion shaft ONLY. The crush sleeve is NOT REUSABLE!!!! Or BY BY BEARINGS... .

that does work also... do you have some examples with the aem ems...?

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLX%2D31163&N=700+115&autoview=sku By far the most efficient way to wire it any electric fans. The unit also comes integrated with the 220 FAL as an option.... Pros: adjustable, variable speed, A/C compatible, Manual...

you just need the solid spacer. call marlincrawler.com ask for the v6 4-runner one...what trans are you running?

Hey did you see the black 911(997) sledgehammer run???? I was curious to see how he did. BTW Im thinking of going to this next year.

im sure that pinion walked... Check the bearing preload on the pinion at this point it might be done but at least its something to consider...my last trip to the track i got the crush sleve colapsed cause the diff started whining.. I stoped at that point but my best 60ft was 1.700.

The sensor is working great. no issues at all. and you are corect it is digital signal. i have it wired to 5V I dont kow if the EMS would have problems picking it up when wired to 12V.

The box will run fine on it. Just keep the 7M ignitor and run DIS4/CDi box from it. The factory coils would be fine with that. The EMS fires the coils in waste spark regardless of the igniter in the car. you wont need any of the tach addapters... just run the tach wire from the dis to the stock...

The ABS sensor on the transmission output shaft is digital 0-5V signal and it should work great for getting stable and accurate readings. PSEN = 5v RR+ = 5v Signal RR- = Ground It looks like it can operate at 12v also.... In the inspection instructions they have it wired to 12v source...

Well I ran out there....last night did 4 runs with the drag radials.. the first two were just geting a hang for how hot the tires like to be and how to get it off the line... there was also some comotion on the first two runs... the third run I came off the lane late but the car ran 11.5@131...

I blew up the trans at the track last week so Im geting it rebuild tomorow and going back on tuesday... puting some redline shockproof hevy and drag radials...Man I hope I break in the 10's but I will be happy with low 11's . I still have 4-5 psi to give it so It should be interesting. Im...

They guy has a DSG (semiautomatic manual transmision... ) or direct shift transmision. They have been around for years ( WRC, GT, F1... ) and it is much diferent than normal manual transmision. BMW and VW are few of the manufacturers that have those in production cars now days.... It takes 20 ms...

Dyno vid... this is early on in the tuning I dont have the last run video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-OQcuU45HpQ Track Run 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga4GGf1uLpU Track run 4? i think... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAvQcE7NNKA

Yeah but power right now is my enermy.. Just got back from the track... =) or =( well any way... 2.3 60' on street tires. Speed dependant boost it traped 131.3 mph in 12.01 sec.... On the other hand I destroyed the trans I was going to try to get in the 11's but ony got 3 runs and could not...

I have come cool vids on my phone just cant figure out how to conver it... and posibly need some one to host it...

Can you include me ???? Mk3 Mods are: 3" turbo back no cat, Tub manifold with 60mm tial gate, 2.5" int tubing, 24x12x4 Int, 1600cc, Twin Walbros, AEM EMS and C2DI... that is about it. Stock motor. All bolt-ons. GT35R-HTA http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80581 Dyno: 1JZ...

No one is saying that the factory coils are crap.. they are great but they also cost a fortune.... If we can get same quality for fraction of the price why not... I did drive the car last night and they seem great. I have to work out some fitment issues, but they are plug and play coils....

I have a hydro-boost unit that I made when I had the 2JZ in the car. There is plenty of room. the ony problem you run into is the brake fluid cap is close to the hood. $100 plus shipping and its yours. It also increases braking power. It has to be plumbed into the power steering.

yeah they will run that power if the are new. when they crack and get old its a different story. At $90-150 PER COIL for a new one or $200 + for used junk its just not the best alternative. The coil kit that im working on is ~$300 for the set for brand new coils that are plug and play and...

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