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well i just remembered gauges always are preset at normal value, for example when you turn on your gauges boost will always be at 0 untill startup. but iv been using my safc to tune everything out along with my wideband. been fine since

since i posted it, here http://www.tomeiusa.com/2010top/tool/boost_psi.pdf

nope still havent installed my walbro, never really bothered me, i just tune it out, been fine since

ok found out how to do it, id had to thank jseaman for everything especially his writeups

hey, im trying to take off my rear hub and currently while taking off the ebrake cable, it goes through the dust cover. does anyone know how to take it out? mines all rusted near it and it dosent seem like there's a way to take it out. has anyone every took this ebrake cable out of the dust...

if you really enjoy working on the supra, or if you like the car i would keep it, thats what motivates me to keep working and making my supra better. i had a time where i was fed up with my supra but in the end i stuck to it and kept going

if anyone needs stuff off shopkey5 let me know, i have free access on there

well i know theres one spherical bushing thats located on the number 2 suspension arm i ddint touch that for others who replaced the bushing in the hub that goes to the trailing arms(traction arms) was there a metal lip in that?

ok, im leaving the front lower control arm and rear no1 and 2 bushings in place, im doing those on the hoist. but im in the middle of removing the spindle to trailing arm bushings, i just want to make sure it has a metal lip like the ones on the front lower control arm, can anyone confirm this?

overall i think it was good , pretty funny actually

wow...amazed..wish i could do that lol, keep up the good work. subcribed

well as long as it dosent seize in the rear for the arms in fine, i can rent a bushing puller or my c-clamps. other than the camber bolts those i will go to a shop with a lift since they are common to seize

hey, im currently installing my Energy bushings and i just want to know if the rear No1 and No2 suspension arm bolts are easy to take off. i have heard of the camber bolts seizing (front lca and rear camber) im currently using a c-clamp to take out my bushings, iv already took out the front...

if anything you can sway over the circuit board if that is the problem

well bubbling heater core or sounds could mean air in the system, i had that same problem, opened the cap and its been fine since, cause i just did a headgasket job. and for rebuilding the engine, either buy a different engine and start from there, what I did was get a seperate block and...

well reving at a stand still wouldn't stall out all the time, im saying when your moving/driving and you take it over to lets say 5krpm and push in the clutch

when you vent to the atmosphere,which i am too. when u rev high and push in the clutch it will stall unless you give it gas, or when you just rev it up and let go, you get used to it for a while till you learn the tricks. otherwise if you feel thats its slow, could be a boost leak

any news on the codes?

sorry, its suppose to be on ON since acc is first and ON is second, its when all the lights on your dashboard light up, sometimes it woudlent register so you have to insert the paper clip in more, happens to me too. wiggle it around or insert it in more, you would see the engine light flashing

you check your codes with car not running and only on acc, setting timing is here http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=20 or step by step here http://www.supramania.com/forums/content.php?181-How-To-basic-timing-instructions-CPS-alignment