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No amps/subs!? Thats really weird then. If you do have an amp and sub I would suggest a capacitor. If not, try making sure the ground from your negative battery terminal to the chasis is good. Do you have a lot of aftermarket electronics? If so you may need to replace the chasis-battery ground...

There's no need to run wiring so close to the heat of the engine by running off of the alternator. Connecting to the battery will give you the same results because there is already a cable running from the alternator to the battery. They are both one in the same electrical circuit. The reason...

A car battery will read 12.6 volts with the engine off. With the engine running the voltage of the electrical system is typically between 13.5 and 14.4 volts because the source of electricity when the engine is running is the alternator, not the battery.

It did have a metal head gasket and ARP's. The head gasket blew cause the radiator had a slow leak and it overheated yesterday (the hotest day of the year) on my way home from work. Im trying to find the pics to post up still. But the exterior is in good condition. Good paint, no dents. Interior...

So I blew my head gasket today. I can change the head gasket but I think i might want to sell it. Its a 1987 turbo, manual transmission. The block is bored out .40 over, it has JE forged pistons, 550cc fuel injectors, 255 lph walboro fuel pump, stock turbo bored out with 60-1 internals, SAFC...

I have all the mods, got the FCD, installed it, and imediately ripped it out as fast as i could. The engine ran like absolute crap with it in and was back to normal once it was out.

YES!!! I finally have my supra back. To elaborate on what i saw when i was in there, at first all a could see was the signal wire to the ecu. I had to trace them up the harness a bit to find the ground shield looping back into the harness. I cut the loop and tested continuity to ground on...

Mine did the same exact thing. Before i found the oil in the plug holes and thought my clutch was out because every time i launched hard the clutch would slip afterward, then i just found out that the oil in #6 plug hole was dumping down in there. Replaced valve cover gaskets and all was fine.

The knock sensor is a seemingly simple one wire sensor. I already ran a new wire from each sensor to the ECU and still CEL is on. So you think the ECU is the problem?

For a few months now my ecu has been throwing code 52. I have replaced both knock sensors and reset the ecu and no good. Then I tried running new wire from each sensor to the ecu, then i reset the ecu and still no good. The engine light doesn't come on right away when i start the car, it comes...

ok, that makes sence. so is there a way to get the 18psi i want in the lower gears without over boosting inthe higher gears?

I just recently installed all the upgrades necesary to run higher boost(60-1, 550's, walbro, lex afm yadda yadda) and i turned up my manual boost controller in hopes to run 18psi. Well it kind of runs 18 but not quite. Each gear gets slightly more boost than the last. 1st gear will pull 13psi...