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just today, i noticed that there is sometimes a light rattle from the engine. i narrowed it to the top of the engine, cam gear area forward bit not inside the head. the rattle is not always there. but you can induce it sometimes if you keep blipping the throttle. it sounds like a can of marbles...

my stock 1jz rad started leaking so i replaced it with a koyo one along with a new trd1.3 rad cap and system flushed and then filled with 50/50 toyota red coolant. bled it well and capped it off. fill the reservoir too. but, i seem to be running into a problem where the reservior tank is not big...

they used this ecu in production dates 1991 october till 1993 august. i dont, neither does the epc know exactly what year your ecu is from.

sorry. my mistake. all the numbers are important!!! but 89661-38560 is not a valid part number. i dont think that is an "8" but rather a zero. anyways, 89661-30560 is a valid number. its listed for a 9110 - 9308 aristo jzs147

taken from the toyota epc. dont know if its useful or not though.

car is a JZA70 TTR with blitz ecu (unknown tune, speed cut delete, fuel cut delete, boost cut delete, but no rpm raising), light tuned safc2 map done by previous owner, 3 inch down pipe and exhaust, no cat, cone filter intake, koyo rad, and just installed a profec b spec 2 on the stock twins...

you have a paypal account where i can make donations to?

the car is a 11/90 JZA70 the exhaust temp probe has been removed and the wiring to the probe has been individually capped off. the exhaust temp warning light will light up occasionally. sometimes it will stay on through out the drive. but, pressing the brake pedal makes it go away. release...

i have a jza70. have been looking around for a greddy boost cut and a greddy speed cut for my car recently. but there seems to be different part numbers and superceeded numbers. just wondering which part numbers are still available and which ones are the correct ones for a jza70 rhd with manual...

its just to show you guys such a system exist. but i never said it was a good idea. when i owned the m3, i had that separator valve removed from my car. it was a system that was prone to failure. dont get me started! the valve was such an after thought too! and, it was standard on the north...

the drain back condensed oil has been done ages ago by bmw. i had that stock on my E30 M3. i believe it was called a oil seperator valve or something...one side hooks up to valve cover, one side to the oil return to the oil pan and one side to the intake manifold...hahaha oh...if i dont put a...

stock after reading a few different posts i came up with this what do you think guys? under no vacuum, it could go either way. under vacuum it should vent either side depending on which side has more vacuum. also, putting in a second one way valve will make sure no "extra" air will...

this is for a 1990 twin turbo r with a blitz ecu, an intake, no cat, egt temp sensor removed, cone filter intake, safc2, speed limiter delete. few days ago, i had a idle hunting problem. oddly enough it seemed to have fixed itself somewhat after i cleaned the icv. the 1 way valve looks good...

with the icv connected or disconnected it makes no difference. i used a smoke machine at work today to look for leaks but found nothing. after 3k rpm, the car drives just the same as before. the map sensor seems to be working. i have a safc hooked up and the voltages and vacuum readings look...

the car is a 5spd 1990 rhd twin turbo r with a stock 1jzgte in it. the car has it it when i bought it a blitz ecu, safc, turbo timer, cone filter intake, hks exhaust with cat temp not connected. everything worked fine till now here is the problem. the car was idling a little high...

i have a 90's ttr. its been cat deleted. the egt probe has been cut off. the 2 wires that go to the probe has been sealed off separately. the funny thing is that the warning light in the dash intermittently comes on. when its on, pressing the brake pedal makes it turn off. once the brake pedal...

i took the shifter out. the transmission sits fine and so does the engine. its the rod thats bent. but it doesnt appear to have been tampered with either. could some other toyota shifter be used?

about the spring. it is easier to push the shifter to the left than to the right. would it be adjustable undercar?

maybe a hot flame and a hammer is the way to go. i'll take a picture and let you guys have a look.