just go to your local parts stopre and ask for .001 to .003 plastigauge
clean your crank journals up nice and good, and toss some std bearings in and put some plastigauge on the crank in a few areas on each journal. Assemble to spec then disassemble and see what the results are. there are...
could buy some std bearings and do the ol plastigauge method and see if anything is out of spec. Thats the only way without some micrometers that you will be finding the clearance
A 1jz can be made perfect but you cant take the stupid out of the driver lol.
Haltech baby ;)
Seriously though, I've been tossing around the idea of a 2jzgte head on the 1jz since it has equal ports. I dont get the mismatched ports. Maybe it helps build boost quicker on those stock twins...
I'll ask dj, its from bullseye, whatever that company is, but he says it isnt listed anymore on their page. Also I believe he said it uses a mitsubishi flange.
I dont think he really lost much for torque considering the chararisitics of the engine. it uses a 100mm stroke so it isnt a high...
btw, just for some extra reference. dj over at projectzero g is running a hx35 with the 9cm housing and this is what he said it spools like running on a 2.4l 4g64/4g63dohc setup/
With the HX35 on the 2.4L I was getting about 4psi at 2500rpm and full boost of 15psi at 3000rpm with FP3 cams no...
Damn mark, giving me some motivation to ifnish my swap. I think im ditching my twin 14b setup and will be doing this instead. Definately a lot less fabrication and plumbing :biglaugh:
Anyhow, I'll probably ring you tomorrow, I'll be needing one of those t4 to t3 adapters.
Only real point of going twins is for the bling factor, but yeah, I want it. I'm going to either do a twin 14b or twin 16g setup with some simple adapter plates off the stock manifolds. Easily under 1000, and with the 16gs, there should be a lot of power ptoential, no idea about the 14bs, as I...
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