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lol thanks for the info but if i had the auto that was behind it i would have figured it out already. im kind of doubting that its the neutral switch because the engine shouldnt turn over if its not in neutral.

i checked alldata for what the trans plugs look like. all the plugs that are by the starter are white or clear. its an 1988 auto supra harness. i did connect the blk-blue and blk-white wire by the starter, thats not the neutral safety switch is it?

cant find any 3 wire round plug. the only one i have is a 5 wire white round plug by the starter. 4 wire square plug by starter. 6 wire rectangle plug by starter and the two by the AC compressor. please post pic of plug or where to look for it. i work in poughkeepsie right behind duchess...

i got power to all the correct places, from truck through injector resistor to injector, through injector and back to the 3 injector grounds on computer. if i ground any of those 3 injector grounds with the computer un plugged i can hear them open. i also have power to my coil and even swaped...

i got power to all the correct places, from truck through injector resistor to injector, through injector and back to the 3 injector grounds on computer. if i ground any of those 3 injector grounds with the computer un plugged i can hear them open. i also have power to my coil and even swaped...

the neutral safety switch is by the starter or has a plug by there? i jumped both of those 10g wires together because im useing the runners start relay. i would think it wouldnt crank if i didnt get around the neutral start switch?

i have a MT 4runner and are useing an AT ecu and wire harness. where are the wires on the ecu that i have to jump? i looked at all the wires labled with AT on the wire diagram and thought i wired it correctly. i have y-blk constant power two blk-org switched 12v the rest are just gauges...

so i think i have a bad computer. any reason why i cant use a auto trans wire harness with a MT ecu?

checked there before i started the swap and wired it up like that to a T. dont know if it matters that im useing an AT ecu?

so i spend all day messing with the wireing and it will crank but wont start. no fuel and no spark. theres power to the injectors and power to the coil. i know the ground on the injectors is switched and when i test those wires on the ecu i get OL on my meter between the injector ground...

if it needs more than the crank cut, new rods and pistons your almost better off finding a different engine, depending on the price you can get on machine work and the price of parts. i have a 7mge that was ran with a seized oil pump and its basicly junk. for the price i could buy two used...

i have found that with other toyota engines is your not useing a genuine toyota T stat the gauge will go in the red then come down and fluctuate alot up and down. i then installed a toyota T stat and it would go up to temp quicker and never get higher.

they look standard. is there any numbers on them i should look for?

you check it all torqued down or off the block?

checked it alreaty and i cant fit a .003 feeler guage under it anywhere. i took a machinist oil stone to the block and head, they cleaned up good. i actualy did a half ass re-deck on my 4runners engine while it was in the truck. thank you for the help sir. :)

the bolts where tight as hell almost stripped the head on two.

do you mean the thickness? .050

i can get 93 octane every around here. 3.220

couldnt find a make on it and i looked hard. it was graphite paper gasket though. some of the coolant copper rings looked a little warped but not blown yet.