The shaft's listed in our vendor thread. We only make steel, but have 2 different wall thicknesses. Balanced good for up to 10,000 RPM, and the weight difference between an aluminum shaft is only like 2-5 lbs.Supra28;1654390 said:Lovin' the CF block off's! I know who to contact now for that.
Why the front kit??
I didn't know you sell driveshafts and cheap too compared to what I've seen elsewhere. Couple questions.
1. Is it aluminum?
2. What's the saved weight with this?
I will, the driver door bar isnt actually welded in, i just mocked it up. It WOULD have clearance issues with that Kirkey big boy that I had. Fits the stock seat just fine if I were keeping it. Its going to take some heavy modification to make that Kirkey fit, but i will post up when we do itwinsauce;1654486 said:any chance you have pics of the fitment with the kirkey seat mocked up after you fitted the cage? Im planning on an identical 4 point setup and im a fan of that brand seat... i was just concerned about how difficult it would be to crawl in and out with the door bar that high up.
It was just Krylon black. I have a paint job owed to me so with the body kit all done it will be Subaru black java micah, thats a siiick paintLPC;1654640 said:What colour did you paint you original drift pig ? Chalk board ? Looks sick azz.
Body parts or parts in general? Yeah of course. We're NA-Ting an SC300 right now with a billet ball bearing PTE turbo. IMO the styling of the hood is irrelevant. I didnt get it because I liked the way it looked and I wasnt detracted by the styling, its purely a piece of fuction. The area of the vent is placed right behind the radiator and has an upturn to generate the pressure differential needed to actually draw the hot air out of the radiator. Creates air flow which improves cooling basically better than the GT Concept would for example because what use are vents on the side? Doesnt generate airflow thru the radiator. This was important for me when I was trying to keep engine and underhood temps down when I was drifting, autocrossing and road racing.carter;1654663 said:Nice build, as well as good prices on parts and a 1pc drive shaft. I'm interested in the T72 as I'm thinking of an Na-t in the SC, but we'll see how things go once that car is here tomorrow.
I'm not a huge fan of the "drifter" hood, I think thats what they called it last time I seen it. But you can't beat $100 dollars for a hood, when the weight is right.
You wouldn't happen to have parts for SC's would you?
Yeah, all that. Just tell me what you're looking for and I can point you to what we have. We sell Master Power turbos, Garrett turbos, Turbonetics, Precision. Depending on how much you're looking to spend I'd recommend a nice billet BB PTE turbo, but maybe a Master Power would fit your budget better.carter;1654829 said:Body parts, engine parts... what ya got? lol I seen the 2jzge na-t manifold, and T72 but I'm looking for a turbo that'll spool fairly quick and max out close to 650 to the wheels.I'm interested in that but its gonna be a little bit before I can start gather parts. As far as the hood, sorry, when I send it I figured you just picked it up to pick it up, not to actually make it fuctional.
I am curious to see the hood tho, I always like the stout hoods but I don't know how well they actually vent, if they do it all.
Well as per NASA's rules for the class it will run in and the weight it will compete at I wont be allowed more than 380hp to the wheels, and if i've managed to lighten it more than I estimated then i'll be allowed even LESS power. But after a little while we'll move into a higher class where we'll be allowed 605whp based on the estimated weightlaotionracer101;1655012 said:Any idea on the kind of boost and hp you will be puting down?