XSPower has begun..

williamb82

Member
Apr 24, 2005
906
4
18
42
Tampa, Fl.
dont use the black rtv, use the ultra gray, and after youve scrapped all the old gasket sealer off, use a clean rag and pour some acetone on it and wipe the pan and block mating surfaces down to remove any residue. then put the gasket sealer on the pan in about a 3/8th bead. if its right the whole tube will be used. then once its all tightened down, youd wanna wait at least 24hrs for it to cure before filling the engine with oil. after its cured you could take all the bolts out and the pan wouldnt come off, usually has to be persueded with a hammer and putty knife. lol. key is to make sure no oil residue on the pan or block mating area. thats what the acetone is for. also is great for cleaning the head and block before installing the hg, and all other gasket surfaces too. keep up the good work.
 

williamb82

Member
Apr 24, 2005
906
4
18
42
Tampa, Fl.
itll be in the paint section. like $3-4 for a pretty big can, and dont get any in an open wound, itll burn like a sob. and itll dry your skin out so be careful not to get it on you at all if ya can, rubber gloves would be a good idea. lol. and dont get it on your cars paint either. its strong shit.
 

Untouchable7mgte

back in the game!
Apr 1, 2005
298
0
16
40
Wilkes-Barre,PA
hey guys just got done putting the new oil pan on today, and it was pretty easy. The only PITA was getting the old rtv stuff off. other than that still waiting on the flywheel to come in then it will be complete.

tomz
 

Untouchable7mgte

back in the game!
Apr 1, 2005
298
0
16
40
Wilkes-Barre,PA
DISCLAIMER: This isn't tom, its his friend Matt.

Update: After two hours of trying to get the engine just to fit in the car, it went in well. Many remove an retrys. All is still going well minus a few minor exhaust leaks and a lack of a v band clamp, cause I accidently broke his. The maf is going well, alittle bit of a pita at first, then he realized a few things weren't plugged in and it all went well.

Car had a rough idle at first, and didn't imediatly want to start up, but after plugging in that o2 sensor (lol, tom) it works fine.

Hopefully tom will get some new pics of the XS power! WOOOO

Sounds mean, too bad he can't romp on it yet with the new clutch and all.



To Tom, I felt I needed to update this thread... you've been lackin, lol. Plus I got bored at work.
 

Untouchable7mgte

back in the game!
Apr 1, 2005
298
0
16
40
Wilkes-Barre,PA
hey guys yes i do have the motor in and its is runnning. The maft is kinda hard to understand but i think im getting the hang of it. I have some pictures of right before the install. But i should have some pics of it in the car and maybe a short little video. The only problem im having right now is that the v-band flange is not sealing correctly and is causeing a small leak. I went through two clamps so far and still leaks. Im thinking about gettting some rtv and sealing the bitch up. OH! i also made the rest of the DP so it doesnt sound a mack truck anymore.lol. But if anyone knows a trick to these v-band bastards chime in. BUt without further ado heres some pics.

sm_photo_missing.jpg


sm_photo_missing.jpg


sm_photo_missing.jpg


sm_photo_missing.jpg


sm_photo_missing.jpg


Cheers!
tomZ:biglaugh:
 

bigaaron

Supramania Contributor
Apr 12, 2005
4,692
1
0
50
Pomona, CA
www.driftmotion.com
Untouchable7mgte said:
The only problem im having right now is that the v-band flange is not sealing correctly and is causeing a small leak. I went through two clamps so far and still leaks. Im thinking about gettting some rtv and sealing the bitch up. OH! i also made the rest of the DP so it doesnt sound a mack truck anymore.lol. But if anyone knows a trick to these v-band bastards chime in. BUt without further ado heres some pics.

There are different sizes of v-band flanges and clamps. You probably have a flange that is too thin or a clamp that is too wide. It works by squeezing the dp flange to the turbo flange. If the part inside the v-band that squeezes the flanges together is too wide it will never seal.
 

Untouchable7mgte

back in the game!
Apr 1, 2005
298
0
16
40
Wilkes-Barre,PA
so you think if i get out the a vise i could fix that?? I know about the sizes i have a 3in to 3in flanges and 3in clamp. I was think about squeezing the clamp togather but i dunno..

tom
 

bigaaron

Supramania Contributor
Apr 12, 2005
4,692
1
0
50
Pomona, CA
www.driftmotion.com
Untouchable7mgte said:
so you think if i get out the a vise i could fix that?? I know about the sizes i have a 3in to 3in flanges and 3in clamp. I was think about squeezing the clamp togather but i dunno..

tom

The outer diameter is not the problem then, you could try to squeeze the middle of the clamp together, or get a better clamp for your application. I have heard of the ebay clamps really sucking if that is what you got.
 

Untouchable7mgte

back in the game!
Apr 1, 2005
298
0
16
40
Wilkes-Barre,PA
i had an ebay clamp then i got a vibrant SS one and its still leaking. Im gonna try that tonight prolly. Heres another question to throw out there. I put in te new clutch and flywhell. Now the cluth pedel isnt to hard but only gets hard about half way down. I bled the whole thign so i dont know if its suppose to be like that???
 

bigaaron

Supramania Contributor
Apr 12, 2005
4,692
1
0
50
Pomona, CA
www.driftmotion.com
Untouchable7mgte said:
i had an ebay clamp then i got a vibrant SS one and its still leaking. Im gonna try that tonight prolly. Heres another question to throw out there. I put in te new clutch and flywhell. Now the cluth pedel isnt to hard but only gets hard about half way down. I bled the whole thign so i dont know if its suppose to be like that???

You just need to adjust it. There is a pin coming out of the master cyl under the dash with a nut on it, loosen the nut and unscrew the pin until there is just a little freeplay. The pedal should only move about 1/2" before you feel it start to disengage the clutch. If you go too far the cluch will never fully engage.

CL_03.gif
 
Last edited: