Wrong engine and Keep right
- Thread starter schmuckingham
- Start date
JDMMA70;2044730 said:
I have checked the block with a straight edge and it is all good to go, besides I am not using a MHG. The 1G isnt really known for blowing a headgasket like the 7M.... we just spin bearings when the oil gets a little low haha. Also I cant get the other dowel out and I dont feel like screwing it up trying to get it out.
Man you really lucked out in not buying a white soarer lol, don't get me wrong i love mine but i just think yours has a much better paint scheme. Also thanks for pointing out the differences in the master cylinders, it should help when i do my auto to manual swap.
BTW if your having trouble finding anything 1g or soarer specific i am willing to help you source it since i live in Japan, just shoot me a PM.
BTW if your having trouble finding anything 1g or soarer specific i am willing to help you source it since i live in Japan, just shoot me a PM.
themadhatter;2044737 said:
I will keep this in mind, I was going to get a manifold from over there but no one will import it for some reason.
JDMMA70;2044738 said:
I tried Wheaties, dried ice, leverage and even heat....... no bueno
3p141592654;2044750 said:
Again, no real reason to. I have found two different MHG for the engine but their crush thickness is too thin and they will raise compression considerably and the coolant/oil passages dont line up with the turbo version. I have also checked with Cometic about getting a MHG made to work but they dont have the tooling to do so. Secondly there is no point to lap the head, I checked for flatness in every plane possible and it is flat enough for me not to be able to get the thinnest feeler gauge under my straight edge ( which is like .0025). If I need a good smooth RMA then I would do it but since MHG is out I dont feel the need.
3p141592654;2044750 said:
For future reference this really works, came out by hand after struggling with it for days
Update
I have been working on the car here and there, I waited for the cylinder head back for awhile and I got it back last week. It is back on the block and I went to torque down my head stud nuts but I didnt have a socket skinny enough to fit down in between the follower bucket holes. Once I got a socket I torqued the nuts down to 60 ft/lbs, little higher than factory 47 ft/lbs.
Now I am chasing a timing issue, every time I set the belt on everything lines up perfect and then when I turn it over by hand the exhaust gear gets off somehow. Its not a full tooth and we know the belt is not jumping but I have done the belt 4 times now and it does it every time. I am beginning to think it is just how it is. I will have some pictures tomorrow.
I have been working on the car here and there, I waited for the cylinder head back for awhile and I got it back last week. It is back on the block and I went to torque down my head stud nuts but I didnt have a socket skinny enough to fit down in between the follower bucket holes. Once I got a socket I torqued the nuts down to 60 ft/lbs, little higher than factory 47 ft/lbs.
Now I am chasing a timing issue, every time I set the belt on everything lines up perfect and then when I turn it over by hand the exhaust gear gets off somehow. Its not a full tooth and we know the belt is not jumping but I have done the belt 4 times now and it does it every time. I am beginning to think it is just how it is. I will have some pictures tomorrow.
Is it a new belt?
Be sure that you have the right part number- maybe the new belt has one too many or too few teeth?
Be sure that you have the right part number- maybe the new belt has one too many or too few teeth?
supraguy@aol;2053067 said:
It is the right belt, I think what is happening is the cam gear moves slightly when I tighten the belt up to remove the slack
