Wrong engine and Keep right

schmuckingham

New Member
Dec 12, 2014
56
0
0
OHIOWN
Last year in July I picked up a 1988 Soarer to enjoy and occasionally monkey with. Coming from 86-93 Mustangs this was as far from opposite end of the spectrum as I could get, but it does look kind of like an 80s Mustang haha. Before the Mustangs and other Fords the first car I ever modified was a 1996 Honda Accord LX with a single cam engine, which NOBODY made parts for unlike Civics and Integras. I kind of grew fond of the SOHC engine and kept it in the car to be different but it made finding parts very difficult. After all said and done it had pistons and rods with an SC61 hanging off the front making about 300fwhp which was fun. I still to this day regret selling that car just for its fun factor.

RIght before I bought it and changed to my custom plate:










Fast forward to today and this Soarer gives me the same vibes as the Accord did with the strange engine. In Australia in Japan parts might be very easy to find but here the 1G-GTE has absolutely ZERO aftermarket backing since it was never offered. The car came with the basics on it but it was very slow and kind of laggy ( which is weird since the turbos are so small) but drove well and was mechanically sound, however it started to develop a smoking habit on warm start and loaded decel. Previous owner had changed the valve stems seals so I figured it was either the turbos going or the valve stems themselves where bad. SO now comes to the point in getting the stocks twins off which looked like and awful plan.








I got the intake off last weekend and that was almost as painful as the turbos, mostly because the vac canister for the secondary butterflies is right in the way of the last intake bolt. The scondary butterflies dont seem to have been functioing for quite some time so that could also cause the lag issue but I believe the main reason is due to the rear turbo being completely shot. The wheel has so much slop in and out that I lucky it didnt come apart. Tere was some oil in the downpipe when I removed it as well, which was not shocking.


The plan now is to get the head off and to the machine shop for a look over, send the head gasket out to Cometic for them to make a good MLS version and then put it back together with ARP headstuds ( which are main studs for a 2JZ). HEre is a list of other parts/plans for the winter:


BPA Custom manifold with V band outlet
ON3 GT30 V band .63/AR turbo
ON3 38MM waste gate
Cobra brakes and stainless lines all around
Alu radiator
J pipe and fuel damper bypass with AFPR
HKS F-CON and GCC
AEM boost controller
PLX Devices wideband
New clutch slave and master cylinder with stainless braided line





I will add pictures and such as I go, next up is getting the crank pulley bolt loose haha.
 

schmuckingham

New Member
Dec 12, 2014
56
0
0
OHIOWN
gp-7mgte;2037888 said:
Looks good, very different in for updates. What exhaust do you have on the car?


It was a stock downpipe to a custom "catback" but there was no cat or muffler haha. He listed the the tail pipes as ISIS blast pipes which I am not familiar with. Sounds great but is a hair loud
 

akito

Keep Laughing.You're Next
Jul 31, 2006
1,568
0
0
Springfield/Va
Very nice ride dude, very! I'm quite surprise you're sticking to the platform but at the same time it's actually harder to than take the easy way out :D kudos to you man.
 

schmuckingham

New Member
Dec 12, 2014
56
0
0
OHIOWN
akito;2038010 said:
Very nice ride dude, very! I'm quite surprise you're sticking to the platform but at the same time it's actually harder to than take the easy way out :D kudos to you man.


Insanity and genius walk a very thin line, I just feel compelled by the power of Toyota Jesus to keep this turd in there for a little while. The Aero Cabin and 3.0L Soarer came with a 7M-GTE in them but if I did a swap it would be a period correct 1J with a R154.
 

schmuckingham

New Member
Dec 12, 2014
56
0
0
OHIOWN
I did some work this weekend after crossfit, nothing like working out after you work out. I found that hiding all your new shiny parts in the trunk of the car you are working on is a great way to hide them from your wife.




I started taking the intake apart to be clean and test the secondary butterflies to see if they work, which they dont. There was some oil in the intake runners and the IAC was nasty.






I also stumbled upon a piece that just doesnt make sense to me, this fuel damper on the feed side. 80s Fords just plumb the lines from the tank to the rail without anything fancy just like a caveman would. No J tubes or damper or anything crazy fancy :)



This however, I am used to.




And this, like the fuel damper, is foreign to me. Why in Allahs name would you use phillips head screws in your valve covers... WHY?






After a few hours of keeping track of thing in tupper ware and eating a snack ( fat guys gotta eat) I finally got the head off. Valvetrain looked pretty good other than the baked on oil.



The pistons have some crud on them and are wet so oil was in there for sure. Headgasket looked great other than the coolant jackets in the block having some gunk on them.




Cylinder walls look pretty darn good for 112K miles.



These valves are so tiny but unlike my other cars there are 4 per cylinder and not 2. Some carbon build up to take care of but the color of everything looks good.







Taking the head off to the machine shop for an overhaul and maybe some slight work if there is any casting flash or something really obvious that needs ported. These heads are pretty efficient from the factory so thankfully it doesn't need a full port job. I am also sending off my stock used head gasket to Cometic to have them cop and make a nice MLS gasket for me. Should be better than the factory carbon one. While I wait I will clean things up and start on my brake upgrades.
 

JDMMA70

Active Member
Dec 4, 2006
2,550
0
36
Houston
Are you going to at least lap the block prior to installing a MLS?

Other than that nice and neat project. Surprised you didnt want to source parts for the 1G from Japan or Australia.
 

schmuckingham

New Member
Dec 12, 2014
56
0
0
OHIOWN
JDMMA70;2038265 said:
Are you going to at least lap the block prior to installing a MLS?

Other than that nice and neat project. Surprised you didnt want to source parts for the 1G from Japan or Australia.


Yes I am, push comes to shove I will have Cometic do a copper gasket with a wire ring in it already instead of o-ringing the block.


Hard part is finding the parts to source, even where the car was sold there isn't much as far as aftermarket and when you do find them no one wants to import them. Some of the parts are even discontinued through Toyota like the distributor rotor.
 

JDMMA70

Active Member
Dec 4, 2006
2,550
0
36
Houston
schmuckingham;2038278 said:
Yes I am, push comes to shove I will have Cometic do a copper gasket with a wire ring in it already instead of o-ringing the block.


Hard part is finding the parts to source, even where the car was sold there isn't much as far as aftermarket and when you do find them no one wants to import them. Some of the parts are even discontinued through Toyota like the distributor rotor.

I dunno dude heres the P/N it says its still available.

19102-88340
 

akito

Keep Laughing.You're Next
Jul 31, 2006
1,568
0
0
Springfield/Va
Phillips head screws to prevent over torqued of the valve covers. I used 10mm hex screws on my 7M, and of course I tried not to tighten them too much too. I would assume thread pitch on the 1G head is probably the same as the 7M so you can definitely do that.
 

schmuckingham

New Member
Dec 12, 2014
56
0
0
OHIOWN
JDMMA70;2038394 said:
I dunno dude heres the P/N it says its still available.

19102-88340


I have tried a few US Toyota dealers and they say there is 1 left here in the states but it doesnt actually exist. I have also tried a Japanese distributor and it is the same story, the cap I have just not the rotor.


ALso on the head gaskets the 1G isnt know for blowing them, they are known for bottom end issues related to oil starving.

akito;2038473 said:
Phillips head screws to prevent over torqued of the valve covers. I used 10mm hex screws on my 7M, and of course I tried not to tighten them too much too. I would assume thread pitch on the 1G head is probably the same as the 7M so you can definitely do that.


That makes sense, not a bad idea until you round half of them haha. I was going to use some torx screws instead. I am lucky in some respects that some part transfer from the 7M but then other things I have to make work.
 

JDMMA70

Active Member
Dec 4, 2006
2,550
0
36
Houston
schmuckingham;2038620 said:
I have tried a few US Toyota dealers and they say there is 1 left here in the states but it doesnt actually exist. I have also tried a Japanese distributor and it is the same story, the cap I have just not the rotor.

Weird they produced the 1G up until 2005. Ill search around for you if I find anything Ill link you either via this thread or PM
 

schmuckingham

New Member
Dec 12, 2014
56
0
0
OHIOWN
JDMMA70;2038645 said:
Weird they produced the 1G up until 2005. Ill search around for you if I find anything Ill link you either via this thread or PM



I really appreciate it! I found one for a GE motor but it was different in appearance. I had asked Curt Agner from SF and he pointed me to Nigel-JDM Parts who found the cap for me.

I should probably just go with coil on plug haha
 

schmuckingham

New Member
Dec 12, 2014
56
0
0
OHIOWN
Since I will be waiting for the head to get finished I figured I would work on the "free" stuff. Fixed some of the fins on my oil cooler and I also start to remove the vampire clamps from my F-CON harness. I will be placing another order with Driftmotion here soon for some fueling parts.

Start with this:



Use these:



Make look betta:



I hate people that use these vampire clamps









Going to try and locate a donor harness for the wires and plugs. If anyone has one they don't want a 89+ grey plug would work best.
 

JDMMA70

Active Member
Dec 4, 2006
2,550
0
36
Houston
schmuckingham;2039475 said:
Since I will be waiting for the head to get finished I figured I would work on the "free" stuff. Fixed some of the fins on my oil cooler and I also start to remove the vampire clamps from my F-CON harness. I will be placing another order with Driftmotion here soon for some fueling parts.

Start with this:



Use these:



Make look betta:



I hate people that use these vampire clamps









Going to try and locate a donor harness for the wires and plugs. If anyone has one they don't want a 89+ grey plug would work best.

Lol the HKS Field Harnesses came that way.
 

schmuckingham

New Member
Dec 12, 2014
56
0
0
OHIOWN
JDMMA70;2039478 said:
Lol the HKS Field Harnesses came that way.


They Did? The have wires that have been cut coming out of them and it would be a huge issue if they grounded
 
Last edited:

schmuckingham

New Member
Dec 12, 2014
56
0
0
OHIOWN
Got a chance to work on the car last night since the weather is nice. I had ordered a MKIII clutch master cylinder in hopes it would work since the Soarer one is no longer available. The MKIII one fit perfectly to the firewal and the clutch pedal, it shares all the dimensions from the firewall to the pedal but it is shorter on the end of the reservoir. Fits tight against the firewall however there are some differences. Since mine is RHD the master cylinder sits right on top of the turbo setup and has a factory heat shield and the port for the clutch line is on top making the line go on top of the heat shield.






Super RARE JDM Vs USDM




The master cylinder was leaking very slightly inside the car when I pulled it. What prompted this was a weird clutch engagement when I would drive it, however when I bled the system this is all I got out of it... might have been an issue:




After looking at everything I would really like to re use the Soarer master cylinder since I can use the heat shield, thinking about taking it apart to see if I can swap parts. Push comes to shove I will build a new heat shield. I also removed the super tight JDM y0 boost controller that didnt work.





I also spent about 2 hours with a can of brake cleaner and a razor cleaning the block for the new headgasket. For elbow and forearms ache today but it came out nicely. I also had a excessive amount of burnt oil built up on top of the pistons thanks to the blown turbo.







Put the Vband housing on the 30R, tiny little guy.