Would you guys say this block is good?

JDMMA70

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Dec 4, 2006
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I recently picked up a 91 7M-GTE shortblock for $75 i was wondering if this is block is still usable as i plan to do a complete rebuild.

From what i can see the cranks gotta go, and I'm missing a pistons no biggie (Eagle Rods and Probes are on the list)

Im just worried about the block overall

Pics.
p1124324_1.jpg


p1124324_2.jpg


p1124324_3.jpg


p1124324_4.jpg


p1124324_5.jpg

Itz broken :sarcasm:

p1124324_6.jpg


Thanks
~JDMMA70
 
Sep 10, 2007
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not sure anyone will be able to tell you from the pics if this block is still good...it would probably be best to tear it down, and take it to a machine shop to inspect carefully.

my .02
 

fonz87

89 Turbo!!!!
Nov 17, 2007
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what the hell is that broken piece ?? you are going to need a new crank.
Take apart the block and then take pics and post them.
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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:rofl:

Looks like a sarcasm thread, but if you're serious the only way to REALLY know give that it had a failure is to have a machine shop check it...
 

JDMMA70

Active Member
Dec 4, 2006
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fonz87;1124391 said:
what the hell is that broken piece ?? you are going to need a new crank.
Take apart the block and then take pics and post them.

id say its what used to be a rod cap, i thought it may have been a main but mains are way to thick. Yeah i already figured the crank, im getting a 6M crank. If its usable *crosses fingers* the whole bottom end is getting rebuilt. I just want a second opinion. My dad says everything on the block minus crank, rods, and pistons is ok, hes built many vw and porsche motors but i know how different the 7M is thats why i asked.

~JDMMA70

*edit*
Thanks Poodles i know just thought pics might help before i start stripping it down.
 

Rennat

5psi...? haha
Dec 6, 2005
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the block should be good as long as smashing that rod cap into the side of it didnt crack the block in that area.

dont worry too much about how the cylinder walls look, because if your getting probes you have to bore it at least .20 or .40 over...


and in one of the pics, the one with the close up of the block deck surface... clean that off with acetone and rag, because i think i see a crack between the water jacket hole and the head stud threads...

also... do you really NEED the eagle rods and probe pistons? a properly prepped 7m is good to 400hp easy... just something to think about.
 

JDMMA70

Active Member
Dec 4, 2006
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Rennat;1124411 said:
the block should be good as long as smashing that rod cap into the side of it didnt crack the block in that area.

dont worry too much about how the cylinder walls look, because if your getting probes you have to bore it at least .20 or .40 over...


and in one of the pics, the one with the close up of the block deck surface... clean that off with acetone and rag, because i think i see a crack between the water jacket hole and the head stud threads...

also... do you really NEED the eagle rods and probe pistons? a properly prepped 7m is good to 400hp easy... just something to think about.

Would you mind pointing out where exactly?
and the goal for the motor is a little bit over 500hp i just thought itd be safe assurance

~JDMMA70
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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Yep I see it too on the upper right hand bolt.

Take it to a machine shop and get it cleaned and magnafluxed before spending ANY money on it.
 

Rennat

5psi...? haha
Dec 6, 2005
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well... i mean my block had almost all of them cracked, i researched, and it was fine to use, just use loctite on the threads that go into the block to help 'seal' it... this is what ARP says on the spec sheet... its not just my opinion...

but yeah, if you can, try to get a different block... my car is fine and i burn zero coolant. i just burn oil... LOL.
 

JDMMA70

Active Member
Dec 4, 2006
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Rennat;1124425 said:
and thats really too bad about the crank... i would honestly ask how much it would be to fix it. its a 7m crank....

p1124435_1.jpg

Ill def. have it looked it, i just went out with a flash light to see the areas your circled i guess it must be something the camera picked up but i couldnt see a thing even cleaned it up.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
SM Expert
Feb 10, 2006
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Sonic cleaning is better...if you hot tank, you will have to replace the oil shaft bearings.
 

JDMMA70

Active Member
Dec 4, 2006
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Houston
jdub;1124518 said:
Sonic cleaning is better...if you hot tank, you will have to replace the oil shaft bearings.

Ill be taking it to the machine shop after my dad and i move into our new place.

please excuse the old oem gasket material still on the block

Under closer observation
p1124560_1.jpg
 

92TealSupra

Supramania's Parts Man
Sep 2, 2008
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I really hope with all the advice on here still you bring i to a machine shop, i wouldn't even rebuild it if the person I bought it from said he had ti inspected unless I knew them and I was there