Wiring Peer Review? Aristo ECU/Harness in 91

[Satan]

After battling the wire gremlins, I am starting over with the documentation and making sure that the connections match. Can you guys take a look and help verify? I will use this tomorrow to rewire and verify everything. There may be mistakes, since I've been cutting and pasting from several sources (which may have been wrong). I've gone through and double-checked the info below. Let me know what ya think and maybe we can finalize it for others to use.

E9 & E10 ECU Connector info -
http://supras.nl/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=34&Itemid=50

Aristo body plug (is really 4 separate connections in one - C, D, E, & F) -
http://www.g099521.net/MKIII/2JZ_SWAP/pinout_test.xls

1JZ Reference docs from Rick's site (zipped) -
http://www.g099521.net/MKIII/2JZ_SWAP/ea21989.zip



1991 Auto to 2JZ/R154 (Aristo ECU/harness)

M1 PLUG:
Pin #1 R/B wired to W at tranny connector (Reverse lights).
Pin #2 Y wired to B at tranny connector (Reverse lights).
Pin #3 Pink to E10 Pin #2 Pink (SP1, no 1 vehicle speed sensor from trip/odo meter)
Pin #4 B to E10 Pin #16 B/W (Taco, Tachometer signal)
Pin #5 not connected
Pin #6 wired to aftermarket sender?
Pin #7 wired to D Pin #1 Y/R (oil level - Body plug) - Will rewire using 7M sender
Pin #8 not connected
Pin #9 not connected??????? ("W" signal for check engine)
Pin #10 to Pin F9 Y/G (Water temp sender for combination meter) - Aftermarket sender
Pin #11 wired to E10 Pin #15


B1 PLUG:
Pin #1 not connected
Pin #2 not connected
Pin #3 not connected
Pin #4 Green to Pin #29 (C15 – G/W) body plug – FP signal to diag (currently have this grounded so that pump comes one when key is on)
Pin #5 B/L to E10 Pin #31 on ECU connection - A/T coil for circuit opening relay
Pin #6 Y not connected
Pin #8 NSW to cruise control clutch switch (MT)… Don’t have?
Pin #7 R/B to E10 Pin #32 on ECU connection - Plus for circuit opening relay
Pin #9 B/O to E10 Pin #1 on ECU connection - Ignition switch
Pin #10 B/W to Pin #54 (E4 – B/L) body plug - to neutral st. switch
Pin #11 Idle Up signal from A/C amplifier --- Needed? Where to connect?
Pin #12 Theft deterrent horn signal --- Needed? Where to connect?
Pin #13 A/C water temp switch --- Needed? Where to connect?
Pin #14 B/O to E10 Pin #1 on ECU connection
Pin #15 SPD signal for cruise control --- Needed? Where to connect?


B2 PLUG:
Pin #1 Airbag signal check connector --- Where to connect?
Pin #4 R/Y to E10 Pin #15 on ECU connection
Pin #6 Violet to D Pin #5 body plug Grey/red (not needed?)
Pin #7 W to E9 Pin #76 on ECU connection - 'N' signal from A/T indicator S/W
Pin #20 Y/L to E9 Pin #64 on ECU connection - IDL
Pin #2 not connected
Pin #2 not connected

E10 & C1 PLUG:
Pin #24 to C1 Pin #2 (Black/Orange - M-Relay)

• Body plug has two black/orange wires going to one pin. Soldered them to the big fat wire coming from plug B1 Pin #14

Pin #31 Black/Red = B+ (Connected to C1 Pin #4 & B1 Pin #7)
Pin #32 Black/Red = B1+ (Soldered to C1 Pin #4 & B1 Pin #7)
Pin #33 W/R C1 Pin #1 (Black/Yellow = BATT)

 

[tissimo]

Im going to be attempting this soon.. I havn't looked over any of the wiring so not sure if what you have is correct or not, but fwiw Lexus GS guys say its Plug and play with their cars, so a gs300 EWD will help.. I'm going to grab the gs300 ewd and the ewd for my car and have at it and see if it works..

 

[The Reaper]

tissimo and i will be putting an aristo harness and ecu on my 1J pre 89 supra in the next month. we'll see how that goes too

 

[suprastanger507mgte]

M1 PLUG:

Pin #4 B to E10 Pin #16 B/W (Taco, Tachometer signal)
Specify where/what pin this signal comes from on the Aristo Harness. I am unable to get my tach working as is.

Pin #6 wired to aftermarket sender?
This is the ground for the dash panel. You will need to hook this to a ground source or else none of the gauges will work.


Pin #9 not connected??????? ("W" signal for check engine)
Will need to be connected. Same wire signal and lablel from the Aristo ECU for the check engine light. It is also labeled "W"

Pin #10 to Pin F9 Y/G (Water temp sender for combination meter) - Aftermarket sender
]( The Aristo sender works fine with the 7m gauge. All I did was cut and replace the plug so it won't break off.



Pin #11 wired to E10 Pin #15

 

[Satan]

Awesome start guys...!

I guess I'll also take a look at the B3 connector and add those details too.

I still have to wire up to use the clutch to start (like stock). Also, I have a Walboro FP to install and had planned to do the 12-volt mod for that. I may rerun wiring directly to it tho (haven't decided this one yet).

Some updates to the notes below. Keep 'em coming folks!!

M1 PLUG:

Pin #4 B to E10 Pin #16 B/W (Taco, Tachometer signal)
Specify where/what pin this signal comes from on the Aristo Harness. I am unable to get my tach working as is.
If you look at the body plug pinout (linked Excel file), this is where I originally mapped the Taco signal to F12. That is probably the right one to use instead.

Pin #6 wired to aftermarket sender?
This is the ground for the dash panel. You will need to hook this to a ground source or else none of the gauges will work.
Yeah, it looks like it should go MASS, so I'll ground it where I grounded the green wire for the FP (B1 Pin#4).


Pin #9 not connected??????? ("W" signal for check engine)
Will need to be connected. Same wire signal and lablel from the Aristo ECU for the check engine light. It is also labeled "W"
If you look at the body plug pinout (linked Excel file), this is where I originally it mapped to the E2 black/yellow. That is probably the right one to use.

Pin #10 to Pin F9 Y/G (Water temp sender for combination meter) - Aftermarket sender
]( The Aristo sender works fine with the 7m gauge. All I did was cut and replace the plug so it won't break off.

I had and aftermarket temp guage with a sender. So I removed the stock Aristo one.


Pin #11 wired to E10 Pin #15

 

[SupraClaou]

Hi guys...I am here to help good time!
Yesterday I got my (aristo stock) 2jz-gte twin turbo bursted into life
for the first time :love: Loud noise from the y pipe cause I don't have a
dp yet :sarcasm:

Anyway...THE TACHOMETER CABLE FROM M1 PLUG GOES DEFFINATELLY TO
E10 ARISTO ECU PLUG,TO PIN 16 (INDICATED AS TACO,TACHOMETER)
It works 1000% from that pin...for my mk3 it does :icon_bigg
And at it's first start up it went up at 1600 revs/minute since it is
cold and the engine didn't work for 2 years :aigo:
First you have to turn the engine on without the ecu pluged (so the
engine won't have spark,timing,fuel etc.),cause we need to raise the
oil pressure so we can lubricate the dryout internal moving parts!
Give some 5-6 ignition key tryouts till the oil pressure warning lamp
goes off! The 2jz-gte (and some late 91-92 euro spec MA70 supras
had it) have the oil pressure switch near the 1rst knock sensor,and on
the aristo 2jzgte the signal is located on the big plug,at pin 15 which
is described as 'block sensor'...actually an oil pressure swich for warning
dash lamp :icon_bigg

M1 plug pin 9 is 'W' warning for check engine lamp on dash and it goes to
Aristo ecu plug E10 pin 6 described as 'malfunction indicator lamp' !

M1 plug pin 6 is a MASS Signal,so we just have to ground it or connect
it to a White/Black wire which is a primary ground wire!

M1 pin 10 is for the water temp. gauge and goes to the aristo big plug
to pin 16 described as 'water sensor' !

M1 pin 11 it goes to Aristo ecu plug E10 pin 15 described as 'ELS
Defogger relay/Tailight relay' !

As for M1 pin 7 is for the oil pressure gauge of the ma70 dash.
We have to get the 7m oil pressure sender unit and to install it into
the 2jzgte block (I got a 'sandwich' plate with 4 ports for valves,which
goes between the oil cooler and the oil filter - got it 40 $) and run your
own custom wire.Don't use the Y/R wire from pin 1 on the big Aristo plug
for the 7m's oil pressure sender, cause you will use it as oem does!
We all mk3 fans must use it,cause is very important
to know where is the engine's oil level !!!!!! The oil level sender unit is
located on the upper aluminum oil pan.It has 2 wires. One Y/R and one
W/B.The W/B will remain untuchable cause is a mass wire and gets
grounted somewhere on the engine from the factory.Now,the Y/R wire
is located on the big Aristo plug on pin 1. Get that cable extended till
the point you want to locate your nice custom lamp.My cable was
extended to about 1 meter long so it reaches my custom lamp
(will give you pictures soon).
Now I have 4 data readings for the oil issues :biglaugh:
# 7m's oil pressure analogue reading on the stock gauge cluster
# 2jzgte's oil pressure switch to a custom lamp
# 2jzgte's oil level signal to a custom lamp
# 2jzgte aftermarket gigital oil pressure reading from the DEFI LINK
display which it's (expensive) sensor is fitted to the aftermarket
40 $ sandwich bracket that I have mentioned before.

 

[Satan]

CONGRATS!!!

I had been using several sets of notes, from several other swaps and finally had enough of trying to figure my scribbling out.

The 91 has different colored wires in different spots than what my 90 has, so I revamped the wiring a couple of times and made notes along the way (which I can't find now).

Went to start it yesterday and not quite where it needs to be. So, I am hoping that we can all contribute and provide the most accurate "quick-guide."

I traced things out using my extra 7M, 1JZ, and 2JZ (Aristo) harnesses. The Aristo one does not have the extra plugs for the 40-pin ECU and body... so it's a bit different than the one I have in the car now.

 

[SupraClaou]

CONGRATS!!!

I had been using several sets of notes, from several other swaps and finally had enough of trying to figure my scribbling out.

The 91 has different colored wires in different spots than what my 90 has, so I revamped the wiring a couple of times and made notes along the way (which I can't find now).

Went to start it yesterday and not quite where it needs to be. So, I am hoping that we can all contribute and provide the most accurate "quick-guide."

I traced things out using my extra 7M, 1JZ, and 2JZ (Aristo) harnesses. The Aristo one does not have the extra plugs for the 40-pin ECU and body... so it's a bit different than the one I have in the car now.

Thanks man !

Μy car is also a 90'model (06/1990),and there are very few differences
between the 90' vs 91' models.
Stupid car motor merchandizers...they should have provide the 40 pin
plug for the ecu E10 plug! :icon_evil I think now I was lucky to have it :icon_surp

I have done all the wiring my self! I am not an electrician or a mechanic!
With some knowledgement and correct diagrams it can be done.It took
me a month,but it is working and that's what matters!
And to tell you something about E10 plug....The damn aristo's wire colours
on the ecu E10 plug are a mess compared with the supra jza80 E10 ecu
plug.I didn't know what to do :aigo: But a guy told me that they tryed
an aristo ecu into a jza80 mk4 supra...and it worked ok! Only the power
and ground wires/signals (+B=B/R,+B1=B/R,IGN=B/O,GROUND=W/B) have the same ID colours! By the way,your C1 plug & E10 aristo ecu plug connections
are 100% correct !

I have only one question.What are we going to do with the fuel pump?
With the ignition switch on the fuel pump is running full duty all the time
with some noise,since we ground the green wire from mk3's B1 plug!
The pump on the stock mk3 7mgte was getting a rest through the
FP relay/resistor and the circuit opening relay,and working hard only
when it was needed to.

And the Yellow wire on the B1 plug was coming from the 7m tccs ecu
which was used to cut fuel for the fuel cut issues!!!! Now that the
yellow signal is deleted are we going to have a fuel cut? If not that will
be bad :cry: Since the 2jzgte was cuting fuel through it's fuel pump
ecu,and the MA70 doesnt have such a thing !
OHHH...and I do have the walbro 255 fuel pump in my tank!

 

[Satan]

Well... almost done going thru things and am gonna power things up and try to start it again.

For the B1 plug,

Pin #10 B/W to Pin #54 (E4 – B/L) body plug - to neutral st. switch... Should be "Pin #10 B/W to Pin E4 – B/Y (body plug) - to neutral st. switch"

Right next to that on the body plug (E5), I found a black/white which also says it's for the Neutral Start Switch

___________________________________________________

I haven't installed my Walboro yet, but there are alot of MKIII owners who've done the 12-volt mod and do not have their pumps switching voltage anymore.

 

[Satan]

...Still crank, but no start. The fuel pump stays on after I remove the key and even stayed on after I disconnected the grounded green FP wire on B1.

I had to pull the Main relay to get it to stop. I still can't figure it out.

Car does have an aftermarket alarm and I hadn't removed it yet, since I was gonna have the newer, super-duper one installed and have them pull the old one out. My next step is to remove that alarm and make sure all of the dash connections used, are still intact.

 

[SupraClaou]

...Still crank, but no start. The fuel pump stays on after I remove the key and even stayed on after I disconnected the grounded green FP wire on B1.

I had to pull the Main relay to get it to stop. I still can't figure it out.

Car does have an aftermarket alarm and I hadn't removed it yet, since I was gonna have the newer, super-duper one installed and have them pull the old one out. My next step is to remove that alarm and make sure all of the dash connections used, are still intact.

Good idea,remove the alarm system...
The fuel pump should stop working the moment you turn the key off!
Even if you turn it over the ACC mode it shouldn't work.The pump should
get it's power from the circuit opening relay through fuel pump relay.So
it gets a +12V from B/R wire like the E10 pin 31 & 32 TCCS ECU gets it
from B/R wire,and NOT from the battery direct (B/Y on C1 plug near fuse
box close to the battery 's location).

Let me know,cause I think there is something you forgot to connect:sarcasm:

 

[Satan]

Yeah... I'm gonna pull that off tonight. The pump comes one when I first go to start (after I hear the M-Rel click). Then just stays on, which may also mean that the whole EFI system is still getting power somehow.

The alarma may have had some type of turbo-timer feature, but I doubt it. Even if it did, why no start? Ughhhh.

 

[SupraClaou]

The circuit opening relay which controls the fuel pump relay gets power
from B/R wire located on B1 plug on MA70! Don't remember the pin,but it is
the THICK B/R wire !!! The other B/R wire which you still find it on the same
B1 plug is a THIN one,and is a signal for the 7m's diagnosis check box (which is useless),and NOT a +12V power source!

On my first attempt to fire up the motor I failed cause I didn't pluged
correctly the E9 plug on Aristo's ecu...which caused the check
engine and ABS dash lights not to light up,and I was just cranking :aigo:

Second attempt to fire it up and I was still only cranking :aigo:
No fuel pump working...so not a single drop of fuel! To be sure that
it was a fuel pump issue we threw some fuel-gas through the throttle
body into the intake plenum...quess what? It fired up,so it was a fuel
pump issue for sure 100%.
Then we connected the thick B/R wire on the B1 plug with +12V (B/R)
and grounded the green wire which makes the fuel pump work continously
and it fired up to 1600 revs ,which indicates that the cold start injector STJ
was working great to!:biglaugh:

I am going in a couple of hours to the car to finish some bugs...

Talk later

 

[SupraClaou]

Did you connect the E10 pin 24 EFI Main relay to the B/O wire on
the C1 plug?

Check on E10 plug the pin 1 B/O IGN switch...is connected properly?
Does the check engine light comes on before you start the engine?
Have you pluged correctly the E9 ecu double plug? I didn't...on my
first attempt :sarcasm:

 

[Satan]

^^Doublechecked and have E10 Pin #1 connected to both B/O on the B1 plug (Pins 9 & 14).

Pin #9 B/O to E10 Pin #1 on ECU connection - Ignition switch
Pin #14 B/O to E10 Pin #1 on ECU connection

I do not have the guage cluster installed... the dash is removed, along with the small harness that is directly attached to it.

 

[Satan]

^^Are B1 pins 9 & 14 correct here? Should they both be connected to PIN 1 on the E10 ECU connection?

 

[SupraClaou]

^^Are B1 pins 9 & 14 correct here? Should they both be connected to PIN 1 on the E10 ECU connection?

No ! The B1 pin 9 B/O (thin wire) goes to pin 1 B/O on E10...ok,
but the B1 pin 14 B/O (thick wire) goes to pin 22 on the big junction Aristo grey plug,which is a thick wire to !!!
It is the +12v IGN for ignitor,injectors etc.!!! It is the power source to the
engine itself :icon_bigg
That's why you only crank the motor...and not start it!

CHECK IT OUT...

 

[Satan]

Still the same... crank, but no start. I even removed the alarm "brain" and still the same. I will remove all of the alarm wiring tomorrow and make sure stock connections are intact.

Anything else in my wiring layout look suspicious?

 

[SupraClaou]

Plug M1 pin 9 is signal for 'W' check engine light.As I can see you didn't
connect it...Do it. Does your engine light comes on?

 

[1jzMoe]

So whats the difference between the 90 and 91 wiring harness other than colors. And someone should put this in a format like how 1JZGTE.US had it to make it simpler and mabye a sticky to help out other people doing this