Winter Driving

[kikdurazz]

I drove my supra for the first 2 winters and regretted it. Driving was not the problem. Good tires and keeping while distance while driving is very to do. There are no issues with winter driving unless a huge snow dump happens then it can be difficult to get it moving.

It's the beating winter takes on the parts. In Winnipeg they use sand and salt, once it gets in behind the door trim it can do loads of damage. Rust just becomes a cancerous demon on the car. Suspension parts wear faster and the undercarriage takes a beating.

Honestly it is way cheaper to park the car put storage insurance on the car. store it even outdoors under a car cover and buy a cheap winter beater truck. Find an older ford ranger or s10 and the insurance on them is cheap cheap cheap.
You run less mileage on the supra, don't have to worry about premature wear due to road salt, less risk of accidents due to poor driving conditions and cheaper insurance for the winter months.

 

[Grandavi]

He's in Alberta, I believe.. so through Intact Insurance.. he can get his car insured as an antique/collectible.. (approx. 11.00 per month as long as he doesnt exceed 5000 km per year). thats full insurance and tons cheaper than parking insurance. Also, if the car isn't worth more than 5000.00 he doesnt need to have it appraised, but he does have to give his "estimated" value at sign-up. (I appraise mine.. just so there's no stickiness at the end. My 88 is appraised at 6000 + 1500 parts on top for insurance)

Although.. he would need a primary driver first.. (or this wouldn't make sense...) so .. the beater car would be well worth it if you look at the insurance expense vs winter damage + insurance. He could put the beater as his primary car and put cheap insurance on that and then insure the Supra as a collectible. I have 3 Supras all fully insured and it costs me 27.00 per month for all three.

 

[Suitcase Jefferson]

Well.. you may have to if you have to.. but do me a favor.. every now and then feel inside your quarters (you can access them from inside the hatch area using the little doors). If you feel dirt or water inside there.. clean it and dump engine oil inside (even dirty is fine although it smells worse). It costs about 2500.00 per quarter panel to rebuild those suckers... and there are no patch panels available for the car. Also, try to clean out the inside of the bumper from time to time so your brackets dont dissolve (you can feel up there if you go the the side of the car and reach up into the bumper). That area is a bad spot for holding snow/salt/sand. I think (someone may correct me) that the mudflaps on the 89 were fixed and arent a metal/plastic construction like the 88's and previous were. so you may be okay there. All of our MKIII's rust.. its prepping them correctly that will stop it. There is a lot more you can do to "rust proof" it, but the rest involves ripping the interior out to access the metal areas.

Thanks for the advice, I'll be sure to do that!

Listen to this man! With parts being discontinued and parts cars getting more rare (I've seen a rapid decline in only 5 years), repairs are going to only get more expensive, if they're possible at all.

Lucky for me, I have an automatic transmission. I'll be driving in "Economy" mode this winter.

 

[Poodles]

If you want to see the hell that wheel well repairs are, ask Kai...