ok guys heres my deal, the passenger window has only rolled down and up maybe two days since ive owned the car, i really wana get this thing working correctly, earlier today i took the whole door panel off and tried to find the problem, i somehow got it to roll half way down and wondered if it would go back up, so i tried up and nothing happend, then i tried down again, guess what... dead as a hammer, maybe twenty min later after messing with every fuse i could find in the car i got it to roll up from the driver side switch but nothing since, i have no idea where the fuse/relay for the windows are, or why it only worked for a split second, but if anyone out there has any advice or has any idea where the fuses are, please let me know, thanks
window help
- Thread starter giterboosted
- Start date
does the window work if you use the driver-side switch? If so, the pass side switch has dirty contacts.
nope, it only works when it feels like it, i just went to go get food between the original post and this one and jsut felt like at random tryin it as i rode thru town, adn i hit the down button on the drivers side adn it went down, i hit up and it went back up all the way, but not a dang thing after that, it wont budge, im guna look in my haynes manual tonite but i just cant figure it out for the life of me.... please someone help me here, let me know what to do
Here's the wiring diagram:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=094
It is worth tearing apart the switches and inspecting the contacts, but only if you're very observant when you take it apart (it's nice to be able to put things back together) and only if you're very mechanically inclined. Corrosion on the rocker contacts of the switches is VERY common and often results in intermittent operation such as you describe.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=094
It is worth tearing apart the switches and inspecting the contacts, but only if you're very observant when you take it apart (it's nice to be able to put things back together) and only if you're very mechanically inclined. Corrosion on the rocker contacts of the switches is VERY common and often results in intermittent operation such as you describe.
but i dont think its a switch, because it doesnt decide which one to work with, just whichever you happen to push when it decides to work, i jsut want the stinking thing to work becasue my fiancee is prego and i dont want her to be nearly as uncomfy as she is, its drivin me insane to figure this out
It's usually a circuit breaker on the windows, but seriously, pull the driver's and passenger's side switches apart and clean the contacts. It's 99% likely that that's your problem. The other scenario is that there are wires in the boots breaking in the door pivots. I've not heard of too many people having that issue in these cars, so take your switches out and clean the metal parts inside. It'll take 10 minutes at most and you can then rule it out as a problem.
What part of "it's a common problem" do you not understand?
It's the 30A circuit breaker behind the driver's side kick panel.
It's the 30A circuit breaker behind the driver's side kick panel.
Here's what you do -
1: unplug the two wire connecter at the window motor
2: hook two wires directly to the motor
3: touch the two ends to a battery (drill battery 10-12volt should work) Positive and negative do not matter, if you touch one way, the window should go up, reverse the two wires and it will go down.
Make sure you are going directly to the motor with nothing attached to it!
FUSES: If the window works intermittently, the issue is not a fuse.
If the motor goes up and down o.k with a battery, the problem is elsewhere.
I would start with the switches; remove them both and spray them out with electrical contact cleaner while working the switches in both directions. Again, make sure they are disconnected - in your hands outside of the car.
Good luck
1: unplug the two wire connecter at the window motor
2: hook two wires directly to the motor
3: touch the two ends to a battery (drill battery 10-12volt should work) Positive and negative do not matter, if you touch one way, the window should go up, reverse the two wires and it will go down.
Make sure you are going directly to the motor with nothing attached to it!
FUSES: If the window works intermittently, the issue is not a fuse.
If the motor goes up and down o.k with a battery, the problem is elsewhere.
I would start with the switches; remove them both and spray them out with electrical contact cleaner while working the switches in both directions. Again, make sure they are disconnected - in your hands outside of the car.
Good luck
but why would it be the switch when sometimes the driverside works and sometimes it doesnt either, its the same for both switches, so idk what it could be, but im guna try everything you guys are suggesting, thanks, and if anyone else has any info that hasnt been addressed yet please let me know,
ps how will i know if the circuit breaker is bad or not? what do i do if so?
ps how will i know if the circuit breaker is bad or not? what do i do if so?
ok guys i officially got the passenger side switch to work, yes the contacts look like someone took a poop on them, as well as the drivers side, but for whatever reason i cant get the driver side switch for the pass side to work, oh well, il get it in due time but at least we can roll it up and down now, its sooooo much cooler in the car now, does anyone have a spare driver side switch unit? or know where i can get one?
Wow really? The switch? Damn... and to think we were all kidding. :evil2:
On the driver's side switch check the little metal rocker contact, compare it to the contact for the driver's side window on the same switch. The rockers' contacts tend to flatten out with age which, along with any oxidization, may prevent the switch from actually closing all the way.
On the driver's side switch check the little metal rocker contact, compare it to the contact for the driver's side window on the same switch. The rockers' contacts tend to flatten out with age which, along with any oxidization, may prevent the switch from actually closing all the way.
You could also get a multimeter (if you don't already have one) and check voltage to the plug that goes into the switch and then check voltage at the motor etc.
That would be the correct way, and it will isolate where the current isn't getting through...voila, problem solved.
That would be the correct way, and it will isolate where the current isn't getting through...voila, problem solved.
yes i used contact cleaner, and both switches looked ok, but ill look again tonite, and im not really sure what to test under there with a voltmeter, because its all one big electrical circuit block on the driver side, idk ill figure it out tho, but yea its sooo much nicer with that window open
giterboosted;1064552 said:
Sorry to bump an old thread, but did you try the lock-out button? I made that mistake before
