airhead04;1558014 said:
This will get locked quick.....
Anywho, if it was on stock torque then that is the answer. Stock torque is 56 ft lbs when it SHOULD be 72 to 80. So if you ran it hard during the test drive on a head that wasnt properly tightened then it blew the hg.....
I wish I knew someone who'd do it for $300... Book calls for an insane amount of labor on this. I don't have it handy, but the labor rate for a motor in "good" condition was like 8 hours. Eleven if "rough". I believe stock HG to be fine when torqued to 75lbs or so. Do you not resurface the block also when doing a HG replacement? I suppose since the block is less prone to warpage, and also since we're not talking MLS or stopper type it's maybe not so necessary...
Also, in my experience, and this IS pertinent to the thread... most people with the 7M BHG issue have driven their broken cars for a while before they knew that there was a problem. Or, they knew there was a problem, but didn't know it was a BHG. One day I flushed the coolant and it was fine. Two days later it started billowing white smoke. That's when I parked it, but apparently not before rod knock set in. When we tore the motor down, all the rod bearings were badly scored and the headgasket was unrecognizable. So, in my opinion, my motor had been running alright with a BHG long before it became a glycolholic. Or perhaps a lot of damage was done in a very short period of time. Mine bled chocolate milk though; the coolant was not green, nor the oil black.
BTW, why have a boost controller (or WG actuator controller) that is set at 8psi? Isn't the stock boost somewhere around 7.5psi?