Why 0-30 Oil?
- Thread starter Turbo Habanero
- Start date
Castrol European Formula 0W-30 (aka German Castrol) all year...in my Toyota pick-up (R22) and Cressida (5M) too.
been using it for almost 2 years after i read jdub's links. can definably tell a difference from mobil1 5w&10w30.
ahh finally some expert from the german forum on here stating his expertise, I have waited for this :rofl:
no really everyone there believes in the holy 10w-60. Why? Yea because of heresay. Trolls.
thankfully there are people here who know what they´re talking about, so this nonsense won´t spread!
no really everyone there believes in the holy 10w-60. Why? Yea because of heresay. Trolls.
thankfully there are people here who know what they´re talking about, so this nonsense won´t spread!
gitplayer;1418749 said:
Dude don't embarrass all the Europeans. Speak for yourself. This kind of retardation creates a negative image of your countrymen, when its only you who talks out of your ass. If you have 100% confidence in what oil companies say , you will find it very comfortable in a church environment. Unless you have some data and analysis to back up what you say , what you "believe" doesn't matter.
Persona;1418972 said:
We have our 15W-50 "believers" here in the USA too...same logic backed up by hearsay.
Using a thick oil requires motor modification...open up the bearing clearances, large cooler w/ -10 lines, shimmed pump, accumulator, etc. For a stock motor it's not a good thing to use IMO.
Turbo Habanero;1419304 said:
Yes and not just for a supra but for all your other cars as well!!!!
The bottom line is...at a cold start what do you think will hit the bearings faster...water or honey?
The 0 means the oil acts/flows like a 0 weight oil cold.....the 30 means that same oil acts/flows like a 30 weight at operation temps! Which means that 5w30 and 0w30 flow the same at op temps but the zero flows better than the 5 cold as it thinner at cold temps! It's a no brain'r!
In a perfect world the best oil would be just as thin at cold temps as it is at operation temps! Oil gets thinner as it heats up reguardless of it's number...pressure means nothing it's flow that matters!
Turbo Habanero;1419321 said:
Thick oil has it's place...but not in your average car! Oil also acts as a coolant for the motor...let's say you road race your supra, this means you'll be boosting non stop for a very long time! This will cause much higher engine temps which means your oil will be getting much hotter than normal...this will cause your oil too thin out too too much (keeping in mind the 10psi per 1000 rpm rule)...so you'll want too run a ticker oil for racing so you keep your viscosity in it's optimal range! After your race you do an oil change and fill up with your average 30w as your oil cooler will be able too cope with the ocasional high heat runs you do on the high way and keeping your oil in the target temp range!
Oils again have changed so god damn much over the years that your 20 yearold supra manual is out dated and straight up wrong!
The reason why stores sell thick oil is simply because it indeed sells! Ignorance is bliss and most people either don't care too learn the theroy of oils or just prefer too listen too hearsay instead of learning facts themself!
So yeah if your car was built for constant high boost runs then a thicker oil may be needed but for your average supra it's going too cause damage! Choosing an oil is a trial and error system...you got too factor your average style of driving and choose an oil that flows 10psi per 1000rpm...in a Toyota supra a 30w oil is the proper viscosity for our system and with a good oil cooler you'll be able too push the car further with a 30w oil! Another down side too thicker oil is it retains heat and your oil cooler will have a harder time cooling it back down too normal op temps!
Which is why most performance cars come standard with an oil cooler too help minimize oil breakdown! Oil has an optimal temp range that you don't want too go under or over EVER! But the laws of physics cannot be changed:-(. This is another reason why the stock 7mgte oil cooler setup is horrible! It's pressure based instead of temp based! The stock system let's cold oil run threw the oil cooler in the mornings which in turn overcools oil and also won't cool oil that needs cooling unless the rpms are high enough too push past 40psi!!!
Notice damn near all auto transmissions have coolers?! This is because trans oil is too run at a constant temp and needs constant cooling as there is so much heat and shear forces that without it you'd gave too change trans oil every 500 miles or less!!!
Notice damn near all auto transmissions have coolers?! This is because trans oil is too run at a constant temp and needs constant cooling as there is so much heat and shear forces that without it you'd gave too change trans oil every 500 miles or less!!!
Thanks for all the info Viper I was also wondering as i have a very quite knock only heard at idle that maybe going with a bit thicker oil might help? Sorry for my ignorance.
Turbo Habanero;1419344 said:
It will help the "sound" but not the problem! It will also help the sound get worse over time aswell as promote bearing damage too all the other surfaces! My car rattles like a diesel at first start up every morning for the first second of runtime untill oil pressure builds up...now if I put 20w50 in it would rattle for 3 seconds...that rattle is pretty much rodknock and the longer it knocks the more damage it will cause!
gaboonviper85;1419349 said:
ahh i see so it will only cover it up but on start up since the oil takes longer to flow it will wear faster IE make it worse..
Hmm i really want to know why i have this F-in Knock... Tonight i had to do my timing it was off. I thought that might take care of the noise but to find out it didn't i still need to do the plugs and wires when i get some cash as my wires look horrible and i am just going to do plugs cause i don't trust the guy i bought it from.
MK3pizzadriver;1419331 said:
This is a true statement...the wider the viscosity range, the more VI is required to meet the SAE grade. That means the oil has less base stock (real oil) by volume per quart. This is especially true for Grp III based stock oils...PAO or ester based synthetics don't require the same levels of VI and are less susceptible to shearing. Heat is also a big factor...temps over 100 deg C will make shearing worse.
This is the HSHT our German friend was talking about earlier. Even on a PAO oil like Motul, the increased viscosity range for a 5W-40 is going to require VI to make that happen. On a PAO like German Castrol 0W-30, very little (GC has zero) VI is required. That makes GC MORE resistant to HSHT vs what you will see on a 0W or 5W-40...a 0W-50 or 10W-60 is even worse in this aspect.
^^^ Lol now i am lost.....
I guess im just going to take every one's word for it and stick with what i was going to do in the first place also makes me fell better that you are from Phoenix lol thanks for the help Everyone
I guess im just going to take every one's word for it and stick with what i was going to do in the first place also makes me fell better that you are from Phoenix lol thanks for the help Everyone