Who's doing it?
- Thread starter gtsfirefighter
- Start date
I did that for a couple years, no problems until I turned the boost up. I was running ~11psi at the time.
GrimJack;1161855 said:
Then I should be ok running at stock boost levels?
The whole reason I was asking is because of a mechanic I was talking to was saying don't use studs on a oem hg because the amount of torque required by arp would "squish" the gasket. He did not know much about supras though, just newer domestics.
about 8000k here at about 10psi seems good so far.
i just did not have the cash at the time to do a rebuild thats why i went with oem and arp.
plus the moter only has a 130k on it so hope to get a few years more out of it then do a rebuild when i have the cash to do it right
i just did not have the cash at the time to do a rebuild thats why i went with oem and arp.
plus the moter only has a 130k on it so hope to get a few years more out of it then do a rebuild when i have the cash to do it right
Disregard most of what the mechanic says from now on :rofl:
The only issue I can see if that you're supposed to burnish the threads by torquing to spec 3 times, dunno if a stock headgasket would take that... Also remember you'll have to run a tap through the holes in the block (all the way, has to be a blind tap, and the studs have to go all the way in) and that you'll have to do a retorque.
The things we do for these cars...
The only issue I can see if that you're supposed to burnish the threads by torquing to spec 3 times, dunno if a stock headgasket would take that... Also remember you'll have to run a tap through the holes in the block (all the way, has to be a blind tap, and the studs have to go all the way in) and that you'll have to do a retorque.
The things we do for these cars...
I have been for about 6000 miles at 11psi. I didnt resurface anything either. No problems yet. I did a retorque after about 5 heat cycles to 85ft/lbs and a few were a tad loose. I was also able to thread the studs in fine without using a tap, guess I was lucky :dunno: I had to grind the crap out of my socket too..
I imagine two things, #1 you don't want to resuraface the block + head, or you don't have enough to do that and put a metal head gasket on.
I had a stock Hg 17 PSI with no problems, ran it for about 8 months, then is old the car.
I torqued a stock HG down to 74 FT-lBS with RP head STUDS
I had a stock Hg 17 PSI with no problems, ran it for about 8 months, then is old the car.
I torqued a stock HG down to 74 FT-lBS with RP head STUDS
ran for 2 years with stock hg and stock bolt at 70lbs running 13psi with no problem, finally upgraded to cometic and arp
Probably going to go with some bolts. The car made it 133k miles stock so I'm guessing it'll be fine.
Thanks everybody!
Thanks everybody!
ARP studs are a better way to go even with the stock gasket.
I'd do them at 72lbs and then heat cycle 4 or 5 times, then back them off 1/8th of a turn in reverse sequence, and bring them up to about 76 to 78lbs in sequence w/ OEM gasket (a little higher torque w/ a stopper).
I'd do them at 72lbs and then heat cycle 4 or 5 times, then back them off 1/8th of a turn in reverse sequence, and bring them up to about 76 to 78lbs in sequence w/ OEM gasket (a little higher torque w/ a stopper).
I torqued mine in a three step, 25-50-75lbs but the engine got a little noisy after 5k miles so I got out of the game for a while. I know my dads was torqued to 75lbs and has 100k miles on his rebuild, GE engine though.