Who offers carbon fiber hatches for mkiii's?

[Dan_Gyoba]

As far as weight distribution goes, it's true that the hatch is at the rear, but it's also HIGH. For that reason, I'd say that it's worthwhile to consider.

It's certainly not the first place that I'd work on for weight reduction, but I don't think that it's an all bad choice either.

 

[TRDownShift]

Although What I would be worried about is just that... that weight "up top" on the rear of the car helps the rear end "sway" a bit and I would think that bit of sway would help with understeer... BUT if you take away some of the rear body roll I would think the car would understeer harder because now theres LESS oversteer... I don't know if that makes any sense to you guys... you've had these cars longer then me so.. I'm just thinking about how the change in weight on that very spot would affect how the car drives. (then again high power FR GT car, less weight out back means faster to power over, I don't know, I guess it could work out both ways based on your setup)

 

[Poodles]

Guy from TX2K7 with a lexan back window

 

[mjsn1]

THANK GOD i read this thread i was going to remove the glass from the hatch and replace it with a light plastic. but it makes sense to leave it as it is.
But what about the door windows, are they worth removing and changing them to light plastic?

 

[bioskyline]

door windows not really. there only 10-15 lbs each (guessing by feel here) plus the windows are slightly curved so that would have to be duplicated aswell, not like the back glass thats flat and stationary.

 

[te72]

...and if i can I will have my roll cage made from it too )

Chromoly steel isn't a bad alternative. I think my entire (Cusco) cage weighs 20-30lbs tops. It can be a structural support that encounters lots of stress though, not sure I would want a CF cage... don't think it would work as well.

As far as weight distribution goes, it's true that the hatch is at the rear, but it's also HIGH. For that reason, I'd say that it's worthwhile to consider.

Hadn't considered this, but I think the point is valid. If you're scraping the bottom of the barrel when it comes to weight reduction, this might be a good last resort.

THANK GOD i read this thread i was going to remove the glass from the hatch and replace it with a light plastic. but it makes sense to leave it as it is.
But what about the door windows, are they worth removing and changing them to light plastic?

Ideally, you want as much of the car's weight BETWEEN the axles as you can, for the sake of balance. Again, not the worst place to remove weight, but I'd leave them alone. Aren't they usually made of 'safety' glass anyway?

Not to mention the headache of shaping a replacement... can't see that being easy or fun.


Hmm... on the topic of weight re-distribution, what happens when you remove 150-200lbs off the nose of the car, when considering the suspension that was setup/tuned for having that weight on the front end? Should be interesting to find out, anyone know from experience?

 

[Poodles]

Door windows aren't possible without constructing frames for them (like they do for rally cars)

 

[te72]

Door windows aren't possible without constructing frames for them (like they do for rally cars)

So in other words, you'd either have to construct an entirely new set of guts for the door's interior, or are you saying you would need to basically rivet the thing on, making it lose it's function as an opening window?

 

[Poodles]

They make a bent metal frame that goes around the edge of the window and you lose the function of rolling it down.

 

[bioskyline]

Hmm... on the topic of weight re-distribution, what happens when you remove 150-200lbs off the nose of the car, when considering the suspension that was setup/tuned for having that weight on the front end? Should be interesting to find out, anyone know from experience?

pull the motor out and what happens? the front end goes up and gives you that awesome 4x4 look, as the springs have less load on them.

it would take a bit of playing around with coil overs, to get the car sitting level, then adjust the spring rate for the same amout of travel front and rear

 

[T701jz]

I can have the doors done for $800-pair x 5-minimum GB.

 

[te72]

pull the motor out and what happens? the front end goes up and gives you that awesome 4x4 look, as the springs have less load on them.

it would take a bit of playing around with coil overs, to get the car sitting level, then adjust the spring rate for the same amout of travel front and rear

Got the coilovers already, and access to scales to cornerweight the car, so definitely have some work cut out for me...

I can have the doors done for $800-pair x 5-minimum GB.

Someone is obviously gonna ask, might as well be me... is this for just the outer skin, or inner panel as well? Would it retain all the function (and safety bits) of the factory door setup? I'm sure there's a market for this sort of thing, just pointing out the questions that are bound to come.

 

[T701jz]

Complete and functional.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Complete and functional.

Id buy a set for sure if you could provide proof everything fits like factory and all structural components in the targa doors were present. The targa doors are a part of the body structure, so you absolutely have to have those in a targa car.

Post up an example picture showing fitment and structure with weight comparison and ill bite.

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[te72]

Id buy a set for sure if you could provide proof everything fits like factory and all structural components in the targa doors were present. The targa doors are a part of the body structure, so you absolutely have to have those in a targa car.

Post up an example picture showing fitment and structure with weight comparison and ill bite.

I'll admit interest, that much I can't deny. Would all depend on the finished product though, and how it looked on the interior too... I imagine weight would be around 25-30lbs per door though, not counting the glass, but have no real way of guessing.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I'll admit interest, that much I can't deny. Would all depend on the finished product though, and how it looked on the interior too... I imagine weight would be around 25-30lbs per door though, not counting the glass, but have no real way of guessing.

The weight is a big part of my concern. The doors are huge. And heavy. But I'm unsure of how much weight you can actually pull and keep it just as functional. I'm imagining you'd only lose the weight of the steel sheet skin on the door. Maybe that's only 20# total. I don't know, but I'd sure like somebody to make one so they can tell me!

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[Poodles]

They're already made http://www.rhdjapan.com/s2-supra-style-carbon-door-set-a70-jza80-supra-52947

 

[te72]

They're already made http://www.rhdjapan.com/s2-supra-style-carbon-door-set-a70-jza80-supra-52947

Well there's a template, who wants to spring for an original set?

 

[Poodles]

Honestly, as they're a large structural and protective part of the car, I'd buy the good ones. Though I doubt the doors weigh all thet much once you remove all the internals (including the crash bars we have in the states)

 

[ttsupra2503]

Just wondering if anyone has weighed their empty door skins or replaced the rear hatch glass with lexan, plexi, or polycarbonate yet. I am moving weight to the rear and would like to lighten the back end of the car up to compensate and possibly get a better weight distribution.