Who made 1jz twin exhaust mani

Beals

JZA70 TT-R
Feb 3, 2009
591
0
16
Alberta, Canada
I thought about going that route, but I liked having the piece of mind about having brand new turbos rather then used. Especially with the upgrade in them ;) plus I don't need more then 20lbs of boost for street lol. although I am jelly of some peoples highway sleepers
 

Beals

JZA70 TT-R
Feb 3, 2009
591
0
16
Alberta, Canada
wierd I just thought of this thread and you posted in it. I want some for the stock twins I don't think this will help me =/ I might have to ask my friend if he can figure out something better for the Y pipe and manifold so I don't have to reroute my IC piping too much.
 

te72

Classifieds Moderator
Staff member
Mar 26, 2006
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Not to give anyone flack here, but with modern turbos what they are... a twin setup is twice the turbos, twice the piping, twice the heat, twice the expense, and unless you spend some good money on turbos, not as effective as a properly sized modern (read: ball bearing) single turbo setup. It's not 1994 anymore guys. ;)
 

87supramario

Member
Jul 15, 2011
213
0
16
Niagara falls
Bumping this in 2015. I am curious to know if anybody has housed the stock twins with aftermarket headers, hopefully with equal-length runners, because I have a set of Albert's twins and I'm trying to justify how restrictive the cast iron exhaust manifolds are.

Because of the capability of the twins and the fact that they appear stock, I want to help these puppies breath and want those upgrades to appear stock as well. A larger intake will be designed since it has been proven that the stock intake arch is restrictive, and I will be purchasing my upgraded 'Y-Pipe' from the guy who proved this theory. Here is the Dump Pipe (aka Y-Pipe) as part of this kit he fabricates to run CT20 twins on a 1JZ;



The man is in Australia by the name of Kurt. Nice family guy. He does this on the side I believe. He mostly specializes with Soarers. Anybody who wishes to contact him I have his FB information as my only contact.
 

Beals

JZA70 TT-R
Feb 3, 2009
591
0
16
Alberta, Canada
I have tracked one down, took a picture for my build thread too ;)

Here's a shot of Albert's rebuilt ct12a's on my new X-pipe, was planning on wrapping it because I removed the heatshield to make it fit but it made a HUGE difference in temperatures I almost don't need to. Also lowered my exhaust note a bit :O

 

87supramario

Member
Jul 15, 2011
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Niagara falls
Nice Beal! Good to hear that there is a twin in Canada, who happens to be the same age as me too haha. I've seen you on SF today.

I have the same chinaman y-pipe as you have in picture. I've notice that the piping inside has a lot of overhangs that needs work for a smooth flow. But Kurt's dump pipe flows even better.

But I was posting about the cast iron headers and not the Y-pipe.
 

miekedmr

mkiii in hibernation
Jul 12, 2005
513
2
18
Upstate NY
As said, if you are throwing away all the plumbing that goes with the stock twins... you might as well go with a more standard modern single turbo.

I upgraded my stock twins but that's only because I wanted to keep all the rest of the Y-pipes and downpipe and stuff stock.

If you're throwing away the stubby little stock cast iron manifolds, everything's custom, and keeping the ct12s makes a lot less sense...
 

Beals

JZA70 TT-R
Feb 3, 2009
591
0
16
Alberta, Canada
miekedmr;2065401 said:
As said, if you are throwing away all the plumbing that goes with the stock twins... you might as well go with a more standard modern single turbo.

I upgraded my stock twins but that's only because I wanted to keep all the rest of the Y-pipes and downpipe and stuff stock.

If you're throwing away the stubby little stock cast iron manifolds, everything's custom, and keeping the ct12s makes a lot less sense...

why? it's the only restrictive part of twins, and you have to pull the twins off to rebuild them... it's easier to take the downpipe off well you do it there fore making it no more work to switch the pipe out. I could see where he's going with the manifold to the block switched being more work but again your making horsepower gains without even tuning it this way.

I thought MKIII owners were all about improving OEM haha, no one seems to like my aero but I keep my car an authentic tt-r and it's pointless?
 

87supramario

Member
Jul 15, 2011
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Niagara falls
Thanks Beal. To go along Beal's "making horsepower without even tuning it" point, while running the the Ceramic CT12A;

- Switching the Y-pipe to a Chinaman Y-pipe is arguably a gain at factory boost levels, let alone what it may achieve at higher boost levels. But what is even better than Ebay's Chinaman Y-pipe is Kurt's (optional 4.5"-5.5") Dump-pipe, which creates earlier boost and more room at the top end range.

- Removing the factory intake arch and replacing it by feeding each turbo their own 3" air filter (AKA twin intakes, also made by Kurt) has net 22WHP and gained 2PSI on a particular 1J Soarer in Australia.
SOURCE: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh...ES-1JZGTE-Dyno-result.&highlight=twin+intakes

- Replacing the factory "hot pipes" as the Australian's calls it (the charge pipes from turbo housings to the intercooler, including the merge pipe) gained the said 1J Soarer another 7WHP surprisingly.

So what about the factory headers? The factory cast runners are not of equal-length first of all. Equal-length headers provide each turbo a equal amount of exhaust pressure with every stroke. This would improve with spooling, the life of the twins and help the tuner create a nice curve.

These are four conservative places where improvements can or have been made, not only to free horsepower but also to extend the life of my upgraded twins. In this case the twins are Albert's upgraded GT28 Steel bladed twins, which are capable of flowing more PSI. Unfortunately they are not upgraded CT20s! But maybe later down the road.

I won't be buying the whole kit from Kurt. I will only be getting his Dump-pipe. I have lots of ideas for the intake and I am trying to push to have it completed by this summer. A brand new TiAL 55mm recirculating BOV will be used. I've had it since I came up with the idea a few years back. This is all talk for now, it'll take time. Like always.

I'm just hoping to find someone with some input about the headers.
 

miekedmr

mkiii in hibernation
Jul 12, 2005
513
2
18
Upstate NY
My point was just, once you change away from the oem non-equal length stubby exhaust manifolds, NONE of the OEM or bolt-on Y-pipes, hot merge pipes, etc will work anymore, because the turbos have to be relocated. There is no way to have an equal length header that keeps the stock twins in their stock position -- there's just no room.

IF someone doesn't mind doing all kinds of custom work to use a pair of ct12s in a different position, on equal length headers, then more power to them! It'll just be relatively costly + difficult compared to going single or keeping the twins in their stock position and reusing stock parts... and it's about the same difficulty as just forgetting the ct12s and using GT28s or something.
 

87supramario

Member
Jul 15, 2011
213
0
16
Niagara falls
You raise a very good point, as it would disruption to everything else if the twins were to be displaced. I've looked under there before and there isn't much space between the head and twins at all. The middle runners would have to run down and back up again, but would still require a reasonable radius. Mind you I would have the whole TT system assembled and floating in place while routing and tacking the runners in place.

My oil feed and return lines have been converted to AN fittings. I should be able to move the whole TT assembly over a little but not much. I was thinking I might have to move it away from the engine but not enough for the new gap to become noticeable, also because the heat shield is suppose to hide everything. The downpipe can be worked on at home and the HKS intercooler piping does give a bit of flexibility.

I know it is very questionable and would have to speak to my aluminum welder about it. See what he thinks of the cast manifolds when I bring him a set of blown twins as a mock up for him to do the intake. I've seen him make some very nice headers before and if he says I wouldn't be happy with the flow, I'll ditch the idea and port the cast manifolds instead. I came here to see if anyone had done it before.
 

Beals

JZA70 TT-R
Feb 3, 2009
591
0
16
Alberta, Canada
87supramario;2065532 said:
You raise a very good point, as it would disruption to everything else if the twins were to be displaced. I've looked under there before and there isn't much space between the head and twins at all. The middle runners would have to run down and back up again, but would still require a reasonable radius. Mind you I would have the whole TT system assembled and floating in place while routing and tacking the runners in place.

My oil feed and return lines have been converted to AN fittings. I should be able to move the whole TT assembly over a little but not much. I was thinking I might have to move it away from the engine but not enough for the new gap to become noticeable, also because the heat shield is suppose to hide everything. The downpipe can be worked on at home and the HKS intercooler piping does give a bit of flexibility.

I know it is very questionable and would have to speak to my aluminum welder about it. See what he thinks of the cast manifolds when I bring him a set of blown twins as a mock up for him to do the intake. I've seen him make some very nice headers before and if he says I wouldn't be happy with the flow, I'll ditch the idea and port the cast manifolds instead. I came here to see if anyone had done it before.

anything is possible if you know someone who can fab or your able to fabricate anything up yourself. This would be out of the question for me. I think switching from a Y-pipe to an X-pipe was a big enough upgrade with minimal work, improves the heat dissipated increasing longevity and of course reduces the back pressure of both turbos bolted together.
 

87supramario

Member
Jul 15, 2011
213
0
16
Niagara falls
That is true but what bothers me the most about only freeing the exhaust side of things is that the intake is still restrictive. Freeing both the exhaust and intake side would make a real difference, especially when it has been proven on the ceramic blades and not the larger (.25" x 2) GT28 twins. Our set up needs more air than stock to beguine with.