Who installed head with cam on arp successfully?

Datsrboi

Loud pipes Save Lives
Jul 31, 2007
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Haltom Texas
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So I looked at my head and cams on the car this morning. Then I look at the ARP headstud and notice its going to be pretty darn hard installing the ARP nut on if the cams are there in the way. My tool isnt that big but has anyone successful tq the nut down or even installed it with the cams successfully? I read some post that some people tried but it was with the arp bolt not arp studs kit..

Also has anyone been able to install the head onto the arp head studs with the motor in the engine bay or did they had to remove it? I am not at home right now but my shop told me it might not clear?

Last off topic one is if our arp headstud can handle 100lbs of TQ +, why must we only TQ it to the recomendation on the paper which is way lower?

I did a light search but school computer doesnt let me do much access to the internet.
 

GotBoost?

I do
Nov 25, 2005
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I'm in the process of putting my motor together and my pal Justin and i installed the head onto the arp headstuds. This was done with the motor out of the car. The studs were screwed finger tight into the block (lubbing with engine oil). Then we laid the MHG on top, installed the lubbed arp washers on each hole and lowered the head on the block, with the cams already installed (the race shop had installed and properly torqued the cams, se we didn't wanna mess with that). Sears sells the right 12 point 14 mm thin walled socket, which we used. Still, we had to turn the cams to let the arp nuts go on each stud.

If memory serves me, with the block still in the engine bay, the HG goes on, then the head, and then the studs carefully go in. All in this order so the head can clear the firewall. IIRC, the head won't clear the firewall if the studs go on before the head. Good luck.
A bit off topic, but I personally think it's no more work to pull the engine out to repair the hg, and it makes it easier. You get to fix/replace whatever needs attention. GL.
 

suprahooked

Built 7M
Jun 20, 2006
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The best way i found is with the engine in the car, Put the gasket on the block ,then place the head on the block ,and then install the arp washers ,then put the studs in snug with allen key. When you go to put the nuts on you need to turn the cams till you can fit the craftsmen socket in to tighten the nuts.
 

Piratetip

Far From Maddening Crowds
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Dec 30, 2005
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An extension/socket fits with the cams in place. Just have to get them in the right location as suprahooked stated.
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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Fort Worth, TX
if you get the cams in the right spot (the TSRM shows this spot clearly FYI), it's easy.

the holes need to be cleaned and have a tap run down them or the studs won't go in far enough (they won't be able to tighten the nuts down enough, this is CRITICAL to the way the studs work, they muct bottom out in the block).

In the car, you'll probably have to put the studs in after the head it on (no big deal, I had to pull a few out cause the damn washers moved on me)

There is a few reasons for the torque spec:
1) HG needs the proper load
2) don't want to overstretch the studs
3) don't want to crack/warp the head

Number 3 is the most important in this. Torque it to what ARP says in at least 3 incrimental passes in the correct tightening order (TSRM yet again...)
 

Datsrboi

Loud pipes Save Lives
Jul 31, 2007
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Haltom Texas
www.cardomain.com
Poodles said:
if you get the cams in the right spot (the TSRM shows this spot clearly FYI), it's easy.

the holes need to be cleaned and have a tap run down them or the studs won't go in far enough (they won't be able to tighten the nuts down enough, this is CRITICAL to the way the studs work, they muct bottom out in the block).

In the car, you'll probably have to put the studs in after the head it on (no big deal, I had to pull a few out cause the damn washers moved on me)

There is a few reasons for the torque spec:
1) HG needs the proper load
2) don't want to overstretch the studs
3) don't want to crack/warp the head

Number 3 is the most important in this. Torque it to what ARP says in at least 3 incrimental passes in the correct tightening order (TSRM yet again...)


Thanks. I was wondering why they always say to tq it lower then what it can handle.

I did read the tsrm a few time just didnt pay attention too much to that part of the cam section. Do you remember the tq sequence off you head? I believe it was 40 then 50 then 75 tq for the arp if I believe. Ill reread if later if no one remembers hehe.
 

mhopemk3

The CT install SPECIALIST
Jul 13, 2005
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Jacksonville, FL 32277
I was able to put in ARP studs and set the head on while in the car. I would put in 4 studs in the front of the motor and you should be able to set the head. Add the rear studs when the head is set.
 

tte

Breaking In - in progress
Mar 30, 2005
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Northern California
suprahooked said:
The best way i found is with the engine in the car, Put the gasket on the block ,then place the head on the block ,and then install the arp washers ,then put the studs in snug with allen key. When you go to put the nuts on you need to turn the cams till you can fit the craftsmen socket in to tighten the nuts.

I did the same.

Cheers,
Roy
 

Datsrboi

Loud pipes Save Lives
Jul 31, 2007
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Haltom Texas
www.cardomain.com
wait so the washer go under the head or on top of the head? I do not have the tsrm with me so just wondering. I saw on youtube a 2JZ build and they put the washer under the head then puts the head on the block.
 

iamshawn

codename: HENRO
Nov 2, 2005
74
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Houston
The ARP bolts with the 13mm heads are easy to put on without taking the cams off.

The ARP studs that i used on my block has 14mm nut size so it was really tiight.. plus u have to get the 12 point deep sockets to get it properly tighten. install the studs into the block first use those assembly grease that came with them. Snug it down with the lil allen wrench that came with them. then put the head gasket on.. ( I don't know what the hell that guy was doing putting the washers on the studs before putting the heead down... that would make a big huge gap between the head and the block > p ) then before you put the heads on place those washers into the slots inside the head before u put it down. then after you place the head onto the block u can start putting the nuts on the studs. One nut i had problem putting it was the one one right below the cam gear (where the CPS or distributor goes in) I just shaved the nut a lil bit with a grinder to put that one on without taking out the cams.
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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don't need a deep socket if the studs are all the way in the block like they should be

not supposed to use the grease on the end going into the block

not supposed to snug em with the allen either...

the EGR cooler may get in the way from putting the head on in the car, either way it's a bit of a tight fit to do the head in the car, and personally I'd never do it that way (have an engine hoist and my back won't like putting the head on in the car)