While the motor is out of the car
- Thread starter JtWo
- Start date
gtsfirefighter
SM Expert on White trash
- Timing Belt tensioner spring
- Cam seals
- Oil pump drive shaft seal
- CPS o-ring & cam cover gaskets
- 3 accessory drive belts
- Upper/Lower rad hoses, hoses to TB & ISCV (or bypass), turbo coolant hoses, 90 deg hose behind water pump, 90 deg hose at rear of head, heater hoses
- Inspect lower rubber radiator mounts
- Vac hoses below intake manifold (use rubber)
- Rubber spacers used at steering rack secure points - Inspect P/S hoses too
Might want to take a close look at the engine harness, especially on the turbo side and where it crosses the top of the motor. Replace the plastic harness cover with heat resistant tubing.
- Cam seals
- Oil pump drive shaft seal
- CPS o-ring & cam cover gaskets
- 3 accessory drive belts
- Upper/Lower rad hoses, hoses to TB & ISCV (or bypass), turbo coolant hoses, 90 deg hose behind water pump, 90 deg hose at rear of head, heater hoses
- Inspect lower rubber radiator mounts
- Vac hoses below intake manifold (use rubber)
- Rubber spacers used at steering rack secure points - Inspect P/S hoses too
Might want to take a close look at the engine harness, especially on the turbo side and where it crosses the top of the motor. Replace the plastic harness cover with heat resistant tubing.
if you have some money to throw into it... get and ATI super damper. and get the intake and exhaust manifolds ceramic coated to lower engine bay temps... this will keep your harness looking good and keep intake temps down.
-pete
-pete
Just so happens I have a intake manifold (upper & lower) already ceramic coated...ready to bolt on, that I am not using 
jdub;1238757 said:Just so happens I have a intake manifold (upper & lower) already ceramic coated...ready to bolt on, that I am not using
i got mine from jdub.... they look great and i noticed a huge drop in underhood and intake temps.
thanks
with the motor out?? way too many great things ive done but heres some...
first - a new or calibrated torque wrench. then retorque the heads. and torque everything else you work on if you're a torquewrenchin maniac.
if ya can replace as many stock bolts with ARP's as you can.
it makes it more... u know...
u may not get the core internals like rod bolts, but the flywheel, heads are easy enough.
crank scraper! easy HP and Oil mod.
maybe shim the oil pump and the turbo.
check the drivers side motor mount. always breaks anyways the minute oil hits it. get or make a solid mount out of solid round, use some grade 8 bolts to hold it. and use a stocker for the passenger (crush) side
POLISH! you can get SO much bling out of all that aluminum the 7m has. If ya do the valve covers, ditch the phillips head screws and get some allen headed bolts from the local supply and torque em properly to spec
like fletch, i would def clean the engine bay/tunnel to no end! If ya had leaky seals, you can bet oil/grime will be hiding in places that look fine or dark. venture deep my friend. this will test ur true love for your supra.
when you get rid of ALL the oil and contaminants, prep and Paint the engine bay, the motor/oil pan. just mask off/remove parts as good as you can. it'll be a good idea to use a spray can and a brush to get behind certain areas.
can ya post a current pics of your engine and bay?
first - a new or calibrated torque wrench. then retorque the heads. and torque everything else you work on if you're a torquewrenchin maniac.
if ya can replace as many stock bolts with ARP's as you can.
it makes it more... u know...
u may not get the core internals like rod bolts, but the flywheel, heads are easy enough.
crank scraper! easy HP and Oil mod.
maybe shim the oil pump and the turbo.
check the drivers side motor mount. always breaks anyways the minute oil hits it. get or make a solid mount out of solid round, use some grade 8 bolts to hold it. and use a stocker for the passenger (crush) side
POLISH! you can get SO much bling out of all that aluminum the 7m has. If ya do the valve covers, ditch the phillips head screws and get some allen headed bolts from the local supply and torque em properly to spec
like fletch, i would def clean the engine bay/tunnel to no end! If ya had leaky seals, you can bet oil/grime will be hiding in places that look fine or dark. venture deep my friend. this will test ur true love for your supra.
when you get rid of ALL the oil and contaminants, prep and Paint the engine bay, the motor/oil pan. just mask off/remove parts as good as you can. it'll be a good idea to use a spray can and a brush to get behind certain areas.
can ya post a current pics of your engine and bay?