Which clutch to get?

[eman2289]

My 88 turbo needs a clutch. It is slipping when i drive it hard. I figured that i should go for a clutch that will handle 300-350 since my final goal for the car is around there. I figured why do 2 clutches. My car is only BPU right now, but im saving for the Lex/ 550 upgrade. I am looking for a clutch that is streetable and that i can slip a bit, no harsh engagement, basically for a weekend car. Can anyone give me some suggestions on where to start (if what i am looking for is not possible) or suggestions on which clutch to go for. If possible, please let me know if you have had first hand experience with the clutch setup, or just "heard" how it was. Also, should i bother doing a flywheel and bolts?

Thanks in advance, Eman2289

 

[Fletch124]

Spec Stage 2. Or an ACT full street disk.

 

[mhopemk3]

I think a good upgrade would be a ACT HD pressure plate and a full face disc.
I would have the flywheel resurvaced when you change the clutch. It shouldn't cost more than $35.

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

I have similar power goals. I have the Lex/550 setup now, but on a stock CT26, I'm not going to run more than 12 PSI boost.

I bought an eBay clutch, the F1 stage 3. If it performs as advertised, it would be good well beyond my power goals. If it performs as I expect, it'll do the trick. It's a 6 puck disc, but still sprung, so the engagement shouldn't be near as harsh as a solid disc. I expect it to be streetable, with occasional chatter.

 

[starscream5000]

You need to be focusing on how much torque you are planing on laying down as that's what the clutch kits are rated for, not HP, those two can be drastically different. You may be shooting for and actually laying down 350 HP, but you could also have 400 ft/lbs of torque too, which would kill a clutch designed to handle 350 ft/lbs torque in short order.

Make sure to have the flywheel resurfaced and balanced if at all possible. ARP flywheel bolts too, and red lock-tite them in place, DO NOT FORGET TO LOCK-TITE THEM!

 

[ViR2]

get ACT organic clutch, its gentle with your engine and holds a lot of power

 

[starscream5000]

You should also be aware that some clutch kits come with an extremely high clamping pressure plate. Some brands (people who have issues with these can chime in here) are known to kill your master cylinders one right after another.

 

[Adjuster]

I have the RPS sprung 6puck from many years ago. (3 pucks are sintered metal, the other 3 are "carbotec?" or something like that.)

Extreme stutter when backing up, especially up slight inclines, like a driveway...
Not very fun in traffic. Engagement is not progressive, or smooth.... More like On-Off.

The good news is it holds well up into the 450rwhp range.

My master cyclinder seems to be holding up. RPS says they modify the fulcrum point, to increase spring rate, but there is only one spring in there, and the pedal pressure is not to extreme. (It is higher than it was stock, but not so much that it is a workout in normal driving, but it's a BITCH in traffic as noted...)

Stop and go... Free left leg press workout...

 

[eman2289]

Well, I just picked up a spec stage 3, so i will let everyone know how it is. For people doing a search for clutches.

 

[Quin]

I've got a Spec Stage 3. It's not too bad. Not a whole lot of play, but it's not bad when you get used to it. I haven't had any issues with slipping @ 351ft/lbs of torque.

 

[isnms]

I have spec stage 2 and like it.

spec stage 2 = 460 lb/ft torque
spec stage 2+= 500 lb/ft torque

http://www.jscspeed.com/mk3/clutch/spec.htm

 

[CajunKenny]

Great post! I need a clutch also.

I'm in the middle of building my engine and don't know how much torque it'll be producing. Is there a formula, table, or chart somewhere that gives approximate calculations...how does one figure the approximate torque?