spiller;1759415 said:
I have 235 front and 275 back. I dont want to run too much negative camber because i need all the traction I can get. These wheels are only temps anyways. Hopefully I cant get a set of ccw classics by the end of the year.
Wheel Fitment & Question Thread
- Thread starter BorHor
- Start date
I have 235 front and 275 back. I dont want to run too much negative camber because i need all the traction I can get. These wheels are only temps anyways. Hopefully I cant get a set of ccw classics by the end of the year.
I have the opportunity to purchase a set of Work Meister's for a VERY cheap price. I'm just worried about the offset being too low, can anyone confirm if they will fit or not? I'm willing to roll the fenders a bit if needed. Wheels are 18x10 +20, and 18x8.5 +24. Any help would be appreciated, I'd really, really like to have these on my car. Thanks!
TravisD62;1760305 said:
those should fit w/ little to no work, thought the fronts may be a little narrow/sunk
Ok peeps. I have spent several hours over a couple months poring over this and other threads like it, and the more I think, the more I get frustrated and confused. I think we should also include lowering height requirement for successful fitments. just my 0.02.
My questions thus far are: given I lower with Eibachs and tokico illumina TEMS shocks, how flush will i get with Work Emotions XT-7 F)18x8.5 +25 R)18.9.5 +20? I had previously worked out with a friend that the "perfect" setup would be F)18X9 +25 R)18x10 +20. So same offsets with wheels a half inch apart in width... any help will be spectacular. Thanks!!!
---------- Post added at 05:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:32 PM ----------
Oh I forgot to include wheel sizing. My "perfect" setup we had figured F)245/35 R)275/35 but since the XT-7's are 8.5 and 9.5 I figure 235/35 and 265/35... thoughts?
My questions thus far are: given I lower with Eibachs and tokico illumina TEMS shocks, how flush will i get with Work Emotions XT-7 F)18x8.5 +25 R)18.9.5 +20? I had previously worked out with a friend that the "perfect" setup would be F)18X9 +25 R)18x10 +20. So same offsets with wheels a half inch apart in width... any help will be spectacular. Thanks!!!
---------- Post added at 05:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:32 PM ----------
Oh I forgot to include wheel sizing. My "perfect" setup we had figured F)245/35 R)275/35 but since the XT-7's are 8.5 and 9.5 I figure 235/35 and 265/35... thoughts?
lithium14;1760491 said:
Sounds like it'll fit fine when you drop it, on the wider rims. I'd wait for someone else to confirm, because I've never had stock fenders, but the width and offset is in the right neighborhood. The skinnier ones will be ~6mm closer to the hub on both sides, so just roll the fenders a little more. Think you'll have to stick with a 265 or maybe a 255 out back, it'll be pretty tight. Dylan JZ has fitment pretty similar to that.
lithium14;1760491 said:
Lowering does many things...I'm working on a spreadsheet that calculates a lot of the fitment variables...300+ rows of fitment dimensions. Don't even ask how long that took to input, let alone figure out the formulas to manipulate all that data. For one, it increases available backspacing in the rear...in other words, you can run more positive offset/wider rim without doing anything more to the fender. Up front, it actually decreases available backspace...opposite effect. Lowering also adds a natural camber due to the way our suspension geometry works, and past a certain point (~1.5/1.75" front/rear, for the record) you can't avoid negative camber even if you wanted to. But, if I'm interpreting my results correctly, the difference is fairly minimal; a stock sawblade on a slammed car should suck in by about 12-13mm front and rear.
Dylan JZ;1759690 said:10/11s would be awesome, but from what I've seen, one can barely use the proper tires on the 9/10s, so. perhaps that is why overfenders exist
Yes it is...but overfenders come with their own problems. I have 2" overs in the front, ~6" overfenders in the back (and yes, it's a production bodykit. Wektor BM1). I could try to get it flush, but I'd end up with an 18x17, -50 ET to get maximum tire and rim...can't even buy a DOT-approved tire that wide, or even stretch a 355/30 over that much bead width. Don't think slicks come that big, either. The other problem is that you can't roll fiberglass, you can only sand it to get rid of the inside lip, which weakens the panel quite a bit and makes it floppy at speed. But I digress...
So, with my aforementioned calculator, I've figured that we have approximately 85/100mm (F/R) clearance from hubs to a rolled-flat fender lip without a pull, and ~175mm backspacing on both ends. Mathematically, that means we can run 255/275 at max on a stock body with no camber; however, once it does come into play, shit gets crazy because the distance between the hub and the outside face of the rim (meaning width AND offset play with this number) changes the angle at which the outside face of the rim sits on, changing the whole ball game again.
Here's a question for you though...if I were to go ahead and get a set of 17x11/14's, would the -60 offset rears mess with the rim's load capacity? And would a 335 (or even a 355) be a stretch on it? Also, how would the outboard movement of tire (ie...sitting ~5" out from the stockers in back, ~2" in front) and the difference in tire size (275-295 fronts, 335-355 rears) affect the handling of the car?
Very well said!! and very knowledgeable indeed!! so it really wasn't just me, there are just so many factors to fitment... I guess the best thing to do is really to just test fit But if what you say is correct, you are saying that the 8.5/9.5 combo will actually need fender rolling?
But if what you say is correct, you are saying that the 8.5/9.5 combo will actually need fender rolling?Maybe, maybe not. I haven't really been considering the inner fender lip, because none of the stock metal is there on my car. The entire purpose of my calculator is to fit rims to my car, using my measurements...though looking back, there's a few people running 255/275 with and without a roll, on staggered setups of about the same width. With your offsets, you're right on the brink of needing a decent roll, and if you get it pretty flat, you should be able to run 245/265 treadwidths. I'd roll em anyways, just to be safe.
Remember that a MK4 TT 17x9.5+50 is pretty much absolute maximum backspacing, and work from there; this rim will support a 275 out back, look good to most anyone, and probably require a slight roll, if any, on the fender. If it were +40, it'd be a definite roll with the same tire, and fairly flush. +30 means some poke, going down a size or two in tire, a flat roll, and probably some camber. +20 is more camber, probably a minor pull from all the rolling anyways, and even lower offsets are going to require more pull/flare on the fenders. This is all considering the same 9.5 wide rim at the same ride height; there is enough variance in the data that suggests each car can vary +/- 3mm in clearance from the next, and lowering adds more fender to hub clearance; most aftermarket springs are in the neighborhood of +8mm F2H, coilovers that are lower will add a bit more. Rims aren't always exactly the same size, either, so there is a bit of "fit and pray" involved as well.
Remember that a MK4 TT 17x9.5+50 is pretty much absolute maximum backspacing, and work from there; this rim will support a 275 out back, look good to most anyone, and probably require a slight roll, if any, on the fender. If it were +40, it'd be a definite roll with the same tire, and fairly flush. +30 means some poke, going down a size or two in tire, a flat roll, and probably some camber. +20 is more camber, probably a minor pull from all the rolling anyways, and even lower offsets are going to require more pull/flare on the fenders. This is all considering the same 9.5 wide rim at the same ride height; there is enough variance in the data that suggests each car can vary +/- 3mm in clearance from the next, and lowering adds more fender to hub clearance; most aftermarket springs are in the neighborhood of +8mm F2H, coilovers that are lower will add a bit more. Rims aren't always exactly the same size, either, so there is a bit of "fit and pray" involved as well.
I just looked at my friends stock body 89 NA on eibachs and 18s and came to a conclusion...follow me through another thought experiment if you will.
Consider this: we have an 18x9.5+35 in the rear, with a 265/35, at stock height. For the sake of simplicity (this setup is actually a really nice easy one) this theoretical fitment rubs pretty hard at full compression. So, we roll our fenders flat, right? Well, because of the way it sucks in the wheel package, we could also throw coilovers on the car and drop it to where it's tucking a tiny part of the tire, and it shouldn't rub either...because the fender lip is about as wide as the clearance you gain from the drop. Doing both, you could run an extra 1/2" of rim/tire width on the outside of this package without pulling the fender. Pulling the fender (as BorHor has proved) can net us another 1" or so, if we're careful with tire selection, and we might be able to squeeze another 1/2" out of a good camber setting and even more scrutiny on tires.
BorHor, how did you manage to pull the fender that far anyways? Pie cut the lip and pull baby, pull?
Consider this: we have an 18x9.5+35 in the rear, with a 265/35, at stock height. For the sake of simplicity (this setup is actually a really nice easy one) this theoretical fitment rubs pretty hard at full compression. So, we roll our fenders flat, right? Well, because of the way it sucks in the wheel package, we could also throw coilovers on the car and drop it to where it's tucking a tiny part of the tire, and it shouldn't rub either...because the fender lip is about as wide as the clearance you gain from the drop. Doing both, you could run an extra 1/2" of rim/tire width on the outside of this package without pulling the fender. Pulling the fender (as BorHor has proved) can net us another 1" or so, if we're careful with tire selection, and we might be able to squeeze another 1/2" out of a good camber setting and even more scrutiny on tires.
BorHor, how did you manage to pull the fender that far anyways? Pie cut the lip and pull baby, pull?
If you went through the 254 pages you would know to keep looking for something better.arashi;1762601 said:
"look for something better"? I'm asking for a certain setup cause I've found someone selling a set locally. whats wrong with me asking if anyone knows if it looks good or if they have a picture of a size setup like that?
what i was looking at is a 5zigen fn01r-c set that is 17x8 with the +25 offset all around. I'm not asking for a picture of that exact set but the size setup.
also TrqMnstr if you have nothing to offer to what I asked why did you even respond? to bust my balls? i don't have 2 hours to blow on looking through 254 pages.
what i was looking at is a 5zigen fn01r-c set that is 17x8 with the +25 offset all around. I'm not asking for a picture of that exact set but the size setup.
also TrqMnstr if you have nothing to offer to what I asked why did you even respond? to bust my balls? i don't have 2 hours to blow on looking through 254 pages.
Looking at getting the following tires
Motegi 18"
Front and Rear
Size: 18x8
Offset: 42mm
Backspacing: 6.14"
Bolt Pattern: 5-114
Rec. Tire Size: 225/40-18
Weight: 26.7lbs.
Finish: Machined w/Black Accent
Construction: 1 Pc. Cast
My concern is, these should fit good, but I am not sure what rubber to throw on them yet if I get them. My car is currently stock suspension and brakes and I intend on installing Tein coil-overs in November and then popping these wheels on the car.
I dont want to go too low profile on the rubber (so that I have limited traction), but it is a DD and only driven in summer.. so not a huge concern. I dont want to stretch the rubber either, because I want to avoid the curb rash. The roads here are not that great.. lol.
Any thoughts on how flush these will be? There shouldn't be steering issues with the 18's that wide on front I think (wheel alignment will be a "must do" anyway). Pretty sure my current 17's are 8" wide, but they may be slightly narrower... (currently running 225/45R17 91V) Its the "40" part of the Recommended Tire size that I am worried about.. that's pretty low profile I think.
(oh yeah.. I have read almost all of this so far.. lol. Nice selection.. )
Motegi 18"
Front and Rear
Size: 18x8
Offset: 42mm
Backspacing: 6.14"
Bolt Pattern: 5-114
Rec. Tire Size: 225/40-18
Weight: 26.7lbs.
Finish: Machined w/Black Accent
Construction: 1 Pc. Cast
My concern is, these should fit good, but I am not sure what rubber to throw on them yet if I get them. My car is currently stock suspension and brakes and I intend on installing Tein coil-overs in November and then popping these wheels on the car.
I dont want to go too low profile on the rubber (so that I have limited traction), but it is a DD and only driven in summer.. so not a huge concern. I dont want to stretch the rubber either, because I want to avoid the curb rash. The roads here are not that great.. lol.
Any thoughts on how flush these will be? There shouldn't be steering issues with the 18's that wide on front I think (wheel alignment will be a "must do" anyway). Pretty sure my current 17's are 8" wide, but they may be slightly narrower... (currently running 225/45R17 91V) Its the "40" part of the Recommended Tire size that I am worried about.. that's pretty low profile I think.
(oh yeah.. I have read almost all of this so far.. lol. Nice selection.. )
rodel;1763817 said:
Actually.. i will just PM you Rodel.. dont want to clutter this thread with too much questions. Be better just to post the result.
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If you don't have the time make the time. I meant for you to skim through the posts to get inspired. I'm not trying to bust your balls (no homo).