Wheel Alighnment always off slightly

mecevans

Supramania Contributor
Jan 18, 2009
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Keros;1434084 said:
Probably the lower control arm is bent, as that it's the arm that takes a majority of the abuse and would probably fail first.

the ball joints are sloppy. i just ordered a crap load of front end suspension parts. i hope it fixes it. good thing i got a complete spare subframe.:biglaugh:
 

BorHor

2JZ-GZE
Jan 10, 2006
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It would be easier if the specs were posted up. I am going to have to agree with who ever posted up caster. Places tend to overlook caster. I can't remember which one of the 2 lower adjustments does caster since I haven't done an alignment in a long time on a MK3.

But if you have specs post them up..
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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tErbo b00st;1433878 said:
not to start shit with you once again...

but where the fuck did you hear that alignment is different for RHD versus LHD?

Missed this gem....

Most roads are crowned, RHD you drive on the left so the car will tend to drift down the crown towards the kerb so you dial in a little camber/castor to correct for this, LHD you drive on the right so the above settings would make the situation worse....

I didn't "hear" it anywhere I actually turn the wrenches on my car.

I can generate .95G lateral and still get 75,000+ Km's (47K Miles) from a set of tires so I must be doing something right.
 

redhot91gt

Grenade Builder
Nov 9, 2008
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IJ.;1443438 said:
Missed this gem....

Most roads are crowned, RHD you drive on the left so the car will tend to drift down the crown towards the kerb so you dial in a little camber/castor to correct for this, LHD you drive on the right so the above settings would make the situation worse....

I didn't "hear" it anywhere I actually turn the wrenches on my car.

I can generate .95G lateral and still get 75,000+ Km's (47K Miles) from a set of tires so I must be doing something right.

Would it just be the exact opposite specs?

Meaning the left would be right... etc..
 

IJ.

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kanji1jz;1444847 said:
HAHA ^ like it's fiction or something.
Fiction?? ;)

redhot91gt;1445715 said:
Would it just be the exact opposite specs?

Meaning the left would be right... etc..

Dunno never set up a LHD car so I can't say for sure sorry.
(unlike some here I don't just pull this stuff out of my ass and won't suggest something unless I know it to work)

There's a HUGE difference setting a car up for a) Street b) Circuit c) Drift type driving.

My car is a fast road car and the settings I use come from 12 years of playing with it and probably 20+ trips to the alignment rack (lucky for me a friend of 30 years owns the shop)

I would set it up very differently if I wanted to go fast at the track on sticky rubber.

.95+G on non R tires and it lets go all 4 wheels and is easy to catch so I'm happy where it's at, I'll have to start again now I've changed the front/rear bias so much.
 

kanji1jz

kanji
Jan 16, 2008
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tampa fl
Your local alignment shop should have the specs in their machine. You could go and request a set of factory spec printouts and they should be able to do that for you.
 

tErbo b00st

Hard Ass
Mar 20, 2007
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IJ.;1443438 said:
Missed this gem....

Most roads are crowned, RHD you drive on the left so the car will tend to drift down the crown towards the kerb so you dial in a little camber/castor to correct for this, LHD you drive on the right so the above settings would make the situation worse....

I didn't "hear" it anywhere I actually turn the wrenches on my car.

I can generate .95G lateral and still get 75,000+ Km's (47K Miles) from a set of tires so I must be doing something right.


Not sure how your roads are there, but often times the crown in the road can be different if it is a multi-lane highway. Often the left hand lane of a 4 lane highway is tilted towards the center, so the crown of all 4 lanes actually lookes like "^^" Not to mention that the crown in the road is different from road to road, and sometimes virtually non-existent (even though it should be there).

But mostly...your car is now going to handle differently from left and right turns, which is.... completely retarded.

You circle racing now? :biggrinbo
 

IJ.

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Mar 30, 2005
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Settings are always a compromise TB you should know that.

Mine are for my conditions in particular and that's why I said they probably wouldn't work for US cars.

You seem intent on trying to prove me wrong in some way but as always I post what I know to work, it may not work the same for others as there are always so many variables to consider, this is the difference between knowledge and guesswork, I know if my car isn't doing what I want I can tweak it to behave as I expect.

As stated earlier .95g on non R tires on normal roads and 75,000+ Km's I must be doing something right. ;)
 

tErbo b00st

Hard Ass
Mar 20, 2007
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IJ.;1452647 said:
Settings are always a compromise TB you should know that.

Mine are for my conditions in particular and that's why I said they probably wouldn't work for US cars.

You seem intent on trying to prove me wrong in some way but as always I post what I know to work, it may not work the same for others as there are always so many variables to consider, this is the difference between knowledge and guesswork, I know if my car isn't doing what I want I can tweak it to behave as I expect.

As stated earlier .95g on non R tires on normal roads and 75,000+ Km's I must be doing something right. ;)

The problem with what "you know to work" is wrong. Just because your Butt Dyno says its nice doesn't mean that it is actually set up correctly. I see TONS of people that think something helps their handling, when in fact it makes it worse. If your getting 75,000+KM from your tires you don't drive your car hard, it's not your magic alignment. If you think you drive your car hard with that many KM on your tires...well again your wrong. And again, I'm baffled by the fact that you would set up your car to handle differently from left turns and right turns and somehow say this is the correct way of doing things.

And straight up, I don't believe your .95G. Unless you are using one of those "g-meter" things you put on your windshield. It is not hard to create .95 peak G's. It is difficult to create .95 sustained G's, such as circling a skid pad.

I'm only intent on proving you wrong because you speak as if your word is the bible, and all the members of this forum eat it up without thinking twice. When everything you do goes against everything I have experienced. And I know for a fact you havn't come up with some magical way of doing things that real race car engineers havn't figured out yet.
 

IJ.

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tErbo b00st;1452943 said:
The problem with what "you know to work" is wrong. Just because your Butt Dyno says its nice doesn't mean that it is actually set up correctly. I see TONS of people that think something helps their handling, when in fact it makes it worse. If your getting 75,000+KM from your tires you don't drive your car hard, it's not your magic alignment. If you think you drive your car hard with that many KM on your tires...well again your wrong. And again, I'm baffled by the fact that you would set up your car to handle differently from left turns and right turns and somehow say this is the correct way of doing things.

And straight up, I don't believe your .95G. Unless you are using one of those "g-meter" things you put on your windshield. It is not hard to create .95 peak G's. It is difficult to create .95 sustained G's, such as circling a skid pad.

I'm only intent on proving you wrong because you speak as if your word is the bible, and all the members of this forum eat it up without thinking twice. When everything you do goes against everything I have experienced. And I know for a fact you havn't come up with some magical way of doing things that real race car engineers havn't figured out yet.



2x MoTeC G sensors on board......

One in the SDL and 1 mounted in the centre of the car.

Yeah ok I'm talking shit you've busted me you're the handling and suspension genius....

The side to side differences are slight and allow the car to track in a straight line on crowned roads (where 90% of my driving is done)

I've never logged .95G in the real world...

What part of "it works for me" don't you get?

Yes I drive hard but I'm NOT a drifter so I don't destroy tires, HUGE difference in car setup and end use again...

I'm done with you and this garbage, all the members can now take your word as gospel on anything handling related you are a setup God..
 

adampecush

Regular Supramaniac
May 11, 2006
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tErbo b00st;1452943 said:
The problem with what "you know to work" is wrong.

Looks like you're just in here to start shit. IJ has explained that the settings work for him. Great. Anybody with even less-than-stellar intellegence can figure this out. I don't see anywhere where he tries to convince others to align their cars similar to his. In fact, he says don't use them!

Do I agree with his style of alignment? No. I prefer to have my car track straight on flat roads. If he is OK with his alignment, great. I fail to see what your problem is with that.

Now from a technical standpoint,

Honestly, (pulling a # out of my ass) how much is a difference 0.2 degrees of caster going to influence cornering? Probably not a lot, but it sure as hell will cause the car to fight road crown more aggressively on one side than the other.
 

adampecush

Regular Supramaniac
May 11, 2006
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To the OP:

Verify that your front subframe is perfectly aligned to the frame. IIRC, there can be a little play in it. If one wheel is significantly further ahead than the other, I'd first check the control arms (measurement would be easiest), followed by ball joints (upper/lower although play in the upper is less likely), bushings, etc, and then the actual frame.
 

tErbo b00st

Hard Ass
Mar 20, 2007
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IJ.;1453036 said:
2x MoTeC G sensors on board......

One in the SDL and 1 mounted in the centre of the car.

Yeah ok I'm talking shit you've busted me you're the handling and suspension genius....

The side to side differences are slight and allow the car to track in a straight line on crowned roads (where 90% of my driving is done)

I've never logged .95G in the real world...

What part of "it works for me" don't you get?

Yes I drive hard but I'm NOT a drifter so I don't destroy tires, HUGE difference in car setup and end use again...

I'm done with you and this garbage, all the members can now take your word as gospel on anything handling related you are a setup God..

You don't have to be a drifter to wear tires faster than that. I was speaking purely of spirited street driving (with full grip).

And the whole "what works for you thing" is kind of dumb in my opinion. If someone said "I run 9 afr, because it works for me" does that mean he's right and doing it properly?
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
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tErbo b00st;1453067 said:
You don't have to be a drifter to wear tires faster than that. I was speaking purely of spirited street driving (with full grip).

And the whole "what works for you thing" is kind of dumb in my opinion. If someone said "I run 9 afr, because it works for me" does that mean he's right and doing it properly?

And you're entitled to your opinion.....

Tell me WHERE I said my way was right and the way to do it properly?

This is getting tedious.