Whats the difference with Arps ?
- Thread starter fonz87
- Start date
does anyone know the size of the bolts of the valve covers? ARP does make valve cover bolts but they r universal. if i find out the size of the stock ones i think i can persuade jack at suprasport.com and arron at driftmotion to carry them for us. that means no more guess work. ARP for everybody lol.:naughty:
Last edited:
man, you guys rock...::w00t:: im guna email jack and see what he says about getting these bolts for us.
i know arp site has stuff about this but alot of that is not english to me. I just wanted to know what many of you guys used or have experienced with cuz that way i know right choice to make.
So i guess ill just go with the studs and 1.2 Mm MHG
So i guess ill just go with the studs and 1.2 Mm MHG
also anyone here know how to take out the turbo. I took the 3 easy bolts of the elbow but can't get the other one out.
I searched and all i can find is useless stuff. Anyone have step by step guide to taking the turbo off ?
I searched and all i can find is useless stuff. Anyone have step by step guide to taking the turbo off ?
uhhhh..with a wrench? Best would be a ratcheting wrench..
Oh and i had to get the bottom one nearest to the engine from under the car with a regular box end.
-connections:
4-turbo elbow nuts
4-turbo to manifold nuts
2-oil return to block nuts
1-banjo bolt to block (or take the 2 nuts off holding the return and feed to the turbo)
2-water lines clamps
-Eric
Oh and i had to get the bottom one nearest to the engine from under the car with a regular box end.
-connections:
4-turbo elbow nuts
4-turbo to manifold nuts
2-oil return to block nuts
1-banjo bolt to block (or take the 2 nuts off holding the return and feed to the turbo)
2-water lines clamps
-Eric
I found it easier to take the DP off first, then the elbow. Makes reaching up from below less obstructed.
noah89t
get naked & boost a supra
Jaguar_5;1023120 said:
not if you're careful. don't cross thread them or over tighten them. if for some strange reason you are stripping the head where you tighten the valve covers, then you have options to use a helicoil or drill, tap, and go bigger. but it should never come to this. you do have to be careful with the aluminum in the head, it seems easy to mess up. you will see IJ talk about the annealing of the head.
noah89t;1022866 said:
Just for the record...
80 ft/lbs IS NOT 80 ft/lbs.
I don't think you understand how people arrive at the conclusion that studs are a more accurate representation of clamping force...
noah89t
get naked & boost a supra
i guess i don't fully understand. but 80ft. lbs. is 80ft. lbs. there is no change in the number. i guess it would depend on what it is being applied to to determine if it will hold. i wouldn't trust hard plastic bolts over stainless, and i wouldn't trust stainless over grade 8. Overall, it doesn't matter too much to me since i have been using ARP bolts in my head for a few years now and i don't plan on replacing them for studs.
noah89t
get naked & boost a supra
i have talked with a fare share of engine builders and race car guys and i have been told many times they prefer studs over bolts.
suprarx7nut;1023905 said:Just for the record...
80 ft/lbs IS NOT 80 ft/lbs.
I don't think you understand how people arrive at the conclusion that studs are a more accurate representation of clamping force...
LOL...so to speak
For the measurement of "twist" as read from the wrench, it is...80 ft/lbs will read for bolts or studs.
For the measurement of pressure applied between the head and block decks (with the HG in between), it depends on the hardware used and the friction coefficient for that hardware. This is not expressed in ft/lbs, but in lbs per sq/in...this is what's meant by a more "consistent clamping force" for studs.
noah89t
get naked & boost a supra
noah89t;1023915 said:
80 lb-ft is simply a measure of the force needed to turn the bolt. It does not directly translate to clamping force. Friction between threads and the friction between the bolt head and the clamping surface have a significant influence on the actual clamping force of a bolt at a given torque. This is why the required torque is less when using a high-grade lubricant versus oil or dry threads during assembly.
edit...i see that jdub beat me by a whole hour. lol.