lol @ the mechanic if he "eyeballed" the flatness of the head for warpage.. And as for a block being "too old for 'those' torque specs".. wow.. slap that dude, or actually.. hit him with the gasket a few times.. pure fail on his part.
What would cause this Nightmare!
- Thread starter supersupramk3
- Start date
Oh, and have a reputable machine shop prep your block for a MHG if that's what you end up using, and when I did mine with the ARP head studs, you can get the bottoming tap from Driftmotion to make sure the studs screw down in far enough, then you can torque them to more than, i dunno.. 15 lbs? 
retorque on a fel pro hg? first i've heard of that one... AND oem head bolts?...
did you have him replace your water pump and thermostat when he did the first head gasket job? cause it sounds like your thermostat got stuck closed if it happened that fast at highway speeds...
nobody else notice the amount of rust in his block? or on the headgasket its self... seems like you had some cooling system issues.
did you have him replace your water pump and thermostat when he did the first head gasket job? cause it sounds like your thermostat got stuck closed if it happened that fast at highway speeds...
nobody else notice the amount of rust in his block? or on the headgasket its self... seems like you had some cooling system issues.
nsngarage;1337196 said:Oh, and have a reputable machine shop prep your block for a MHG if that's what you end up using, and when I did mine with the ARP head studs, you can get the bottoming tap from Driftmotion to make sure the studs screw down in far enough, then you can torque them to more than, i dunno.. 15 lbs?
clean the threads yes.
15lbs? you obvisouly didnt read the directions FROM arp did you?
HAND TIGHT.
just read the directions... they make them for a reason...
Rennat;1337217 said:
They advertise them as "monotorque" gaskets but in my experience with the 7M this is some sort of rude joke as there's at least 2 bolts that are down 5ft/lbs compared to the rest (#11 and #12) I think this is somewhat due to the 30c temp difference from the front of the head to the rear so I always retorque after 5 heat cycles.
Rennat;1337217 said:
I didnt have the mechanic change out the water pump but he did put in a new thermostat. I am curious whereas how im getting so much corrosion and/or rust stains in the block. I see alot of this staining in the water outlet and in the radiator. I have always used coolant/water mixture. Any inputs???
Well as the "mechanic" didn't do anything else right, maybe he mixed coolant types for the added FUBAR effect?
dude re read my quote from SC, the rust you see is from the exhaust mizing with the coolant= ACID
supersupramk3;1337145 said:
Don't use the bolts, get the studs, and cancel your order for the head gasket, until you know how much metal you need to remove from the surfaces. And DON"T do just the head, you NEED to have the block flat as well, to get a MHG to seal.
rayall01;1337396 said:
What he said im actually running ARP Headbolts though everything seems fine so far, but i would def go with studs (im doing this with my rebuild).
Also if you needed a big allan key to get the headbolts loose they are stock. If you needed a 13mm socket then they were ARP's.