What used for lazy eyes?
- Thread starter HIDPLANET
- Start date
No controller is needed. Just turn the headlight switch on, and then off quickly as the headlights start to rise. Or you can do it manually by turning the knobs on the side of the headlights
P.S. It should be noted that the lazy eye look is frowned upon in the MKIII community, so don’t be surprised if you catch a little flack for asking this question.
P.S. It should be noted that the lazy eye look is frowned upon in the MKIII community, so don’t be surprised if you catch a little flack for asking this question.
OK 
Thanks for the tip.
I ask because in the end, I plan on performing a HID retrofit on the vehicle after the eninge work is completed. I was wondering how it was done so the headlights go down when not in use, but go up partially when the lights are turned ON. I never planned on driving them like that while the lights are turned off.
Either that or make a custom buckets to sit inside the headlights to hold the HID projectors. Im not really a fan of retrofitting projectors into aftermarket headlights with these types of headlights. Id rather have custom mounts and buckets to hold the projectors.
Thanks for the tip.I ask because in the end, I plan on performing a HID retrofit on the vehicle after the eninge work is completed. I was wondering how it was done so the headlights go down when not in use, but go up partially when the lights are turned ON. I never planned on driving them like that while the lights are turned off.
Either that or make a custom buckets to sit inside the headlights to hold the HID projectors. Im not really a fan of retrofitting projectors into aftermarket headlights with these types of headlights. Id rather have custom mounts and buckets to hold the projectors.
Here in Australia we have it a bit easier as H4's were an option so a set of Hi/Lo 55w HIDs and away we go!
In your situation HIDPLANET, people have just bent the actuator bar, on the side of the headlights, slightly to get the desired lift. This allows the headlights to come up to a level of your choosing while they are on.
Awsome thanks a ton! that will definatly help when the time comes to do it.
As for the earlier statement of a HID H4 Kit, that will never happen. I and the company I run are highly against HID conversion kits because of their glare and output performance. We try our best to educate others on our forums about the importance of not using HIDs into halogen housings.
As for the earlier statement of a HID H4 Kit, that will never happen. I and the company I run are highly against HID conversion kits because of their glare and output performance. We try our best to educate others on our forums about the importance of not using HIDs into halogen housings.
I used the JDM H4 housings and the glare was an enormous issue (Front of the car was a big ball of light) but the Aussie H4's have a front mount reflector as part of our design rules so the pattern is MUCH better (still not optimum but good enough to be functional)
Well its actually not as bad as you would think. We do have to repeat ourselves many times, but there is so much info available on the forums that people do tend to see the difference and decide to retrofit rather than use a conversion kit.
Too many people out there are into things because they are cool, and don't care about actual functionality.
These people hear "HID" and think "WOW! I gotta get me some of those." These people don't pay attention to the facts about the halogen lenses not being made to handle the HID bulb and don't seem to care that they are actually putting themselves and other drivers at risk.
And don't fall for those ebay ads. Most of those are crap! Buy quality lenses and bulbs (halogen or HID).
Back on the topic:
You can get a Pivot controller to control things electronically... or you can modify the rod and arm linkages to make them both shorter - I am making the linkages shorter for mine.
Keith
These people hear "HID" and think "WOW! I gotta get me some of those." These people don't pay attention to the facts about the halogen lenses not being made to handle the HID bulb and don't seem to care that they are actually putting themselves and other drivers at risk.
And don't fall for those ebay ads. Most of those are crap! Buy quality lenses and bulbs (halogen or HID).
Back on the topic:
You can get a Pivot controller to control things electronically... or you can modify the rod and arm linkages to make them both shorter - I am making the linkages shorter for mine.
Keith
Your statement is very true.
I get hundreds of emails per day asking how they can get a blue colored output etc.
I remind them that the output they see on BMW etc. is not blue and is a result of the prism effect in the projector itself. Far too many times people see the blue colorband when facing an OEM HID System and think the entire output is that color.
Anyhow, thanks so much for the replies, I will use this info in the future when the car is ready for HID.
I get hundreds of emails per day asking how they can get a blue colored output etc.
I remind them that the output they see on BMW etc. is not blue and is a result of the prism effect in the projector itself. Far too many times people see the blue colorband when facing an OEM HID System and think the entire output is that color.
Anyhow, thanks so much for the replies, I will use this info in the future when the car is ready for HID.
WOW! Someone has done some reading.
You will get some blue out of any projector lens no matter what light source is behind it (within reason).
Another thing to everyone looking at modifying their headlights. DO NOT USE AUXILIARY LIGHTS AS MAIN LIGHTS! This will endanger you and the other drivers around you! Too many people have replaced their headlights with fog lights. That's like installing cardboard brake pads because they "LOOK" soo cool!
You will get some blue out of any projector lens no matter what light source is behind it (within reason).
Another thing to everyone looking at modifying their headlights. DO NOT USE AUXILIARY LIGHTS AS MAIN LIGHTS! This will endanger you and the other drivers around you! Too many people have replaced their headlights with fog lights. That's like installing cardboard brake pads because they "LOOK" soo cool!
Ive never understoodm nor have I been a fan of sleepy eyes, but ther is a much easier way of doing it that doesn;t require you to buy a $80 control module from ebay, or bend any rods.
All you have to do is find the headlight main fuse in your engine bay, grab the wire that leads up to the underneath of the fuse box and cut it in half. Get a spring switch and splice a wire to each end of the wire you cut in half and run them into the car. Now connect those two wires to the switch and mount it. Thats it, your done. The switch controls power to the headlight actuators. Just hit the switch so it cuts off power at your desired hight
All you have to do is find the headlight main fuse in your engine bay, grab the wire that leads up to the underneath of the fuse box and cut it in half. Get a spring switch and splice a wire to each end of the wire you cut in half and run them into the car. Now connect those two wires to the switch and mount it. Thats it, your done. The switch controls power to the headlight actuators. Just hit the switch so it cuts off power at your desired hight
Cost us about $7 in wire and in switches to do our headlights. Of course, I didn't do it for the sleepy eyed look, for some reason my headlight retractor relays would not get any power (even though the fuses and combo switch is good) so we just decided to hotwire the headlight motors.
Here's a "cockeyed" pic:
and you can do neat stuff like this:
:biglaugh:
Here's a "cockeyed" pic:
and you can do neat stuff like this:
:biglaugh:
Suprastic said:
Some of us want to be able to raise and lower the headlights for regular use though.
Well in my situation, I plan to aim the projectors in a way so when the headlights are partially open, the projectors will be pointing directly down the road and not downwards like the OE headlights would in this position.
KeithH said:
And you can. The switch is just killing the power to the headlight actuators. Turn the switch on until the lights are fully up, and kill the power to the motor by hitting the switch off. The spring switches work best because you can achieve the desired hieght within a few centimeters. Maybe im just not explaining it clearly enough. Basically the $4 switch does the same thing as the $80 module on ebay. You can adjust the height of the headlights to whatever you want, when ever. Its not a fixed height, but fully adjustable to completley up, down, or anyhing between you desire.
But he is not looking for fully adjustable. Because of the style of housing he will be using the headlights only need to come up halfway(or somewhere in there) when he turns them on. He wants them to come up to one specific preset point when he turns them on. He doesn’t want to have to fiddle with a switch to get the lights kind of where he wants them, never sure if it's exactly right.
The above statement is true. Once I find the desired height, I will want it to open to that exact height everytime the lights are turned on. Otherwise the lights will not be aimed correctly or consistantly each time.
You guys will find a lot of interest in my latest HID headlight mod:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18406
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18406