i know what to do with my car i am just quite sure what parts i want to buy yet? my talon used to keep me walking all the time and thats not what i need with this supra because its my daily driver. i should be getting my insurance check so i will fix my oil leaks and stuff that it needs. Get a intake and bov.maybe a exhaust. maybe do some fuel stuff too.i am excited to play with my supra but its so quiet its driving me insane, lol.Justin727 said:
What reliable modifications should I do?
- Thread starter boostinsupragirl
- Start date
Well while you're fixing that just for cheap insurance get a brand new Toyota hg and some arp head bolts and replace the hg just in case so you wont blow it!
who cares I'd still make sure its a yota gasket and put some arp's in there. Make sure its torqued to 80 ft lbs if you can't do that.
make sure that the block is healthy,
get a manifold adaptor and use your super 25g
3in exhaust all the way back with a highflow
spearco replica intercooler w/ hardpipes
maf-t pro
BOV
well talk later tonight if you go to shelton.
get a manifold adaptor and use your super 25g
3in exhaust all the way back with a highflow
spearco replica intercooler w/ hardpipes
maf-t pro
BOV
well talk later tonight if you go to shelton.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
When the head was done, was a metal head gasket installed, or just another composite stock type?
ARP bolts, or re-used stockers?
If they re-used stock bolts, and used a stock gasket, you should check your head tourqe right after you do your compression test.
I would make sure the stock bolts are tourqed to 72lbs. (Carefully back a single bolt off a 1/8 turn, then tourqe to 60lbs. Follow the TSRM pattern, or starting in the middle and work your way out to each end in a X pattern.) Next pass, go to 65lbs and don't back off any bolts this time. Last pass go to 72lbs and your done. This will put the stock head gasket under about as much clamping force the stock bolts can muster without going plastic and adding more tourqe just stretches the bolts more, and does not add much clamping force.
If they put ARP bolts, you can do the same, but 80lbs is a good goal on the stock headgasket. (Don't want to crush it out so much you damage it.)
If you have ARP bolts/studs and a metal head gasket, you can check the tourqe, and keep it in the 80 to 90 range for bolts, and 90 to 100 for studs and your good to go.
While your there, check your plug wires, they are often worn out but look pretty good. (I would reccomend replacing them while your there. Same with your plugs. Check them for gap, insulator damage and color, and replace them with irridium's if you can, just gap them to .28 and never have a misfire.)
Make sure your coil pack has a good ground. (Adding a wire from your coil packs to the negative chassis ground that is near the fuse box on the left apron behind the battery is not a bad idea. Just get two crimp on terminals, and use 10ga wire or better and it keeps your coil packs nice and happy.)
Ditch all ideas of loud BOV's on the Supra. (On the stock AFM setup, or running the Lexus, you do not want to blow off metered air, or you will run rich, and run like crap.) Porsche spec Bosch bypass valves work great, and are a cheap mod. (And they are louder if you like the sound.)
Intake wise, there are many adapters out there to allow you to use whatever filter you like. K&N, Apexi etc. And the K&N FIPK is not a bad choice. (As is the stock aplication K&N filter, and a modified air intake cover to allow more flow... Works fine, and is the cheapest way to go.)
Ok, now on to fun mods. Buy a 2.5" 90 degree conduit sweep at Home Despot or Blowes. (Metal of course.) Now notice you have a "flat" plastic upper IC pipe? Line up your metal conduit and make a mark, then cut that pipe and you have your "new" upper IC pipe mod. Down below, where the IC pipe comes out of the turbo, you have a cast alloy elbow at the frame rail between the turbo and the FMIC. Remove that, and pitch it. Use what's left of your conduit pipe, trim the stock rubber hoses some to remove any cracked or frayed ends, and clamp the conduit in place of the cast elbow. (It all fits, just shove the pipe up there till it's the right length.)
Ok, you just picked up 2psi more air for free. (That's about 22hp with no other mods.)
Downpipe wise you have some options. First you need to decide on who's style of pipe you like. I reccomend the one piece DP's that replace the elbow personally. Then you need a cat back. Choose one you like, they all are a great upgrade from stock.
While your there, shim your waste gate with two flat washers. This will restore the old tired wastegate spring to about stock levels, and give you 9psi or so of boost at the most. (On most cars, just don't keep adding shims to push it very far unless your looking to rebuild your motor soon.)
On the stock headgasket, 3" exhaust and DP, the IC mods and a good state of tune, 9psi is no problem. On a metal headgasket, 12psi is no problem.
Ok, fuel cut? Might show up somewhere around 10 to 12 psi... Just lower your boost and stay out of the cut. (Or read up here and find ways to raise the fuel cut limit if you can add more fuel pressure...)
On your oil leak situation, if it's leaking at the front, check your cam seals before you go pulling off the lower main. (They don't leak very often, but cam seals, or front cam caps if not installed right with sealant will leak like buggers.) If the front cam caps are leaking, my guess is they installed them dry with no sealant, and since your cams are pressure lubricated at the front caps, it's an area prone to leak if not sealed up right.
You still have to pull your thermostat housing to check the cam seals, but it's alot less work than removing everything up front to replace the front main seal. (You just pull the upper timing cover, and look for leaks.)
Good luck, and welcome to the madness.
ARP bolts, or re-used stockers?
If they re-used stock bolts, and used a stock gasket, you should check your head tourqe right after you do your compression test.
I would make sure the stock bolts are tourqed to 72lbs. (Carefully back a single bolt off a 1/8 turn, then tourqe to 60lbs. Follow the TSRM pattern, or starting in the middle and work your way out to each end in a X pattern.) Next pass, go to 65lbs and don't back off any bolts this time. Last pass go to 72lbs and your done. This will put the stock head gasket under about as much clamping force the stock bolts can muster without going plastic and adding more tourqe just stretches the bolts more, and does not add much clamping force.
If they put ARP bolts, you can do the same, but 80lbs is a good goal on the stock headgasket. (Don't want to crush it out so much you damage it.)
If you have ARP bolts/studs and a metal head gasket, you can check the tourqe, and keep it in the 80 to 90 range for bolts, and 90 to 100 for studs and your good to go.
While your there, check your plug wires, they are often worn out but look pretty good. (I would reccomend replacing them while your there. Same with your plugs. Check them for gap, insulator damage and color, and replace them with irridium's if you can, just gap them to .28 and never have a misfire.)
Make sure your coil pack has a good ground. (Adding a wire from your coil packs to the negative chassis ground that is near the fuse box on the left apron behind the battery is not a bad idea. Just get two crimp on terminals, and use 10ga wire or better and it keeps your coil packs nice and happy.)
Ditch all ideas of loud BOV's on the Supra. (On the stock AFM setup, or running the Lexus, you do not want to blow off metered air, or you will run rich, and run like crap.) Porsche spec Bosch bypass valves work great, and are a cheap mod. (And they are louder if you like the sound.)
Intake wise, there are many adapters out there to allow you to use whatever filter you like. K&N, Apexi etc. And the K&N FIPK is not a bad choice. (As is the stock aplication K&N filter, and a modified air intake cover to allow more flow... Works fine, and is the cheapest way to go.)
Ok, now on to fun mods. Buy a 2.5" 90 degree conduit sweep at Home Despot or Blowes. (Metal of course.) Now notice you have a "flat" plastic upper IC pipe? Line up your metal conduit and make a mark, then cut that pipe and you have your "new" upper IC pipe mod. Down below, where the IC pipe comes out of the turbo, you have a cast alloy elbow at the frame rail between the turbo and the FMIC. Remove that, and pitch it. Use what's left of your conduit pipe, trim the stock rubber hoses some to remove any cracked or frayed ends, and clamp the conduit in place of the cast elbow. (It all fits, just shove the pipe up there till it's the right length.)
Ok, you just picked up 2psi more air for free. (That's about 22hp with no other mods.)
Downpipe wise you have some options. First you need to decide on who's style of pipe you like. I reccomend the one piece DP's that replace the elbow personally. Then you need a cat back. Choose one you like, they all are a great upgrade from stock.
While your there, shim your waste gate with two flat washers. This will restore the old tired wastegate spring to about stock levels, and give you 9psi or so of boost at the most. (On most cars, just don't keep adding shims to push it very far unless your looking to rebuild your motor soon.)
On the stock headgasket, 3" exhaust and DP, the IC mods and a good state of tune, 9psi is no problem. On a metal headgasket, 12psi is no problem.
Ok, fuel cut? Might show up somewhere around 10 to 12 psi... Just lower your boost and stay out of the cut. (Or read up here and find ways to raise the fuel cut limit if you can add more fuel pressure...)
On your oil leak situation, if it's leaking at the front, check your cam seals before you go pulling off the lower main. (They don't leak very often, but cam seals, or front cam caps if not installed right with sealant will leak like buggers.) If the front cam caps are leaking, my guess is they installed them dry with no sealant, and since your cams are pressure lubricated at the front caps, it's an area prone to leak if not sealed up right.
You still have to pull your thermostat housing to check the cam seals, but it's alot less work than removing everything up front to replace the front main seal. (You just pull the upper timing cover, and look for leaks.)
Good luck, and welcome to the madness.
if you don't want to rebuild and the headbolts are torqued to the factory specs leave the car be. Do not modify it. If you don't mind doing a mild rebuild and retorquing the bolts above 70lbs then go ahead.
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