what oil would you prefer?

Jspec7m88

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Dec 3, 2005
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okay, out of curiousity, i was wondering what kind of oil you guys are using? winter time(anything below 40 degrees F*) and warm weather (60 degrees F* and up). When i first got the car, I ran Full Synthetic 10W-30...i've heard several different opinions on what is best...any ideas?:joshers:
 

SP 7M

Use your GUY instinct
Apr 6, 2005
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This has been discussed countless times. Anyway, I recommend Amsoil High Performance Synthetic 10W 40 (that's the actual name) for warm weather and I would suggest either 5W 30 or 10W 30 of the same kind in cold weather.

I was recently told by my dad (also drives a turbo MKIII) that he is now using Amsoil's turbo-specific 10W 30 [in a warm climate]. I would like to look into that oil for my next change. I'd probably go with 10W 40, though, but I'm still open to suggestions to go with 10W 30.
 

Nick M

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Sep 9, 2005
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All of the name brand dino oils are high quality today, even Penzoil and Quaker State.

10W-30, or 5W-30 if you live in an area where under 30 F is a common occurance.
 

spokanesupra

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Dec 8, 2005
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i use 15 50 mobile one year around it is very good oil in any temp!:biglaugh: + it is fully synthetic. NEVER RUN CHEAP MOTOR OIL IN TURBO CAR!!:aigo:
 

Supra5MGTE

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Nov 11, 2005
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I run Mobil 1 10W-30 year round. I live in FL, so we rarely get true cold weather. but M1 is a good synthetic oil and I can get it cheap at wal-mart in a 5qt jug for $20.
 

PIONEER

Wallet Wide Open
Mar 30, 2005
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getting a little off topic but Mike whats going on with all these Auto Trans fluids.

Dex V out now and all these car makers going with their own standard for oil. What is in their oil that is not in over the shelf oil?
 

suprageezer

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Aug 27, 2005
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I run Castrol GTX 40wt year around, I’ve put 50k hard miles on mine so far for a total of 176k. If my engine were new with the tight tolerances I would run Castrol GTX 30 wt year round. I personally don’t buy into the multi weight scam especially since I live in CA and on 100 degree days all that multiweight oil thins out so much it all runs out of your bearings and upon restart you can hear things clanking you shouldn’t. Remember when it comes to CAR info from the established Manufacturer Engineers its all about getting your car worn out sooner so your back to buy a new one. That's how we get corrosives in brake fluid, Corrosives in antifreeze, Additives that goop things up, and you buying thin oil for warm days. You think they run these thin multi weights in race cars? Think they run thin oil in race cars? They run some pretty tight tolerances in their motors too but they don’t run these oils. An oil pump is a very powerful mechanical pump and as long as your oil is liquid when you start it up cold it's going to move oil to where it needs to be regardless of viscosity to a point. Most of the race teams have what they car Oil Parties where they dump the sponsoring oil out and put the brand and weight they prefer in their sponsor’s bottles. Now if I lived where it snows I would certainly run thinner oil, but I would change back to thick oil come the beginning of spring.

Rick
 

Supra5MGTE

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Nov 11, 2005
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One thing I will say about running thick oils in a OHV OHC type motor is race cars don't start their engine 10x's day to get groceries. they start it 1-3 x's and hope to finish a race or a season. I completely agree that "true" synthetics (ie NOT castrol!) are the best bet. I think the pro's of running multi-weight oil out weigh the cons of it. b/c After starting my 3.0VZ, 5MGTE and 7mgte cold start after cold start the cam lobe wear will start to stack up. On today's motors the best defense is getting lubrication to the top of the motor ASAP under start up. Also, thicker oils have a harder time passing through a Oil filter's media, so you will probly cause the Bypass valve to open allowing contaminents into your engine where as your less likely to activate the bypass valve with thinner visc lubricant. In my 5mgte i'm breaking it in with valvoline 10W-30 dino oil and then after about 6K i'll switch to Amsoil. Probly 10W-30 amsoil. Let's not forget... on a OHC motor most your wear occurs at start up. And I live in FL where it's hotter than HELL in the summer. 100F+ days, heck it's in the 70's today!... never had an engine fail b/c of oil thinning out.
 

Nick M

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5MGTE and 7mgte cold start after cold start the cam lobe wear will start to stack up. On today's motors the best defense is getting lubrication to the top of the motor ASAP under start up. Also, thicker oils have a harder time passing through a Oil filter's media, so you will probly cause the Bypass valve to open allowing contaminents into your engine where as your less likely to activate the bypass valve with thinner visc lubricant
Yep.
Then the perp running something that flows less than 5 or 10 says, "well it was a 7M, it was going to get rodknock anyway, I probably delayed it" or some other horeshit like that.