What mods first?

boosted mk3 supra

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Sep 16, 2010
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CiTRUS HEiGHTz
I've Ben researching and I'm looking at the best way to make power and I'm thinking of the long run.

Car is an 89 supra 5 speed with 91k, just did the head gasket with Titan motorsports 2.0mm metal head gasket and arp stud torqued to 90 ft-lbs. Everything else is stock

I've seen mixed reviews of the lex/550 mod and a safc or maft pro. I don't want to spend money that's not needed.

I'll be getting a wideband to monitor A/F but I'm looking for what is th best way I see everyone uses the lex/550 lod but they run super rich in looking to do it right as if it's the same price to get the maft/safc I'll go that route.

Would I be able to get a tuner and then turn the boost up, if so what are my limits?
 

JDMMA70

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Dec 4, 2006
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Assuming you did the head gasket job properly. Many here will know what I mean by that, then I wouldn't waste my time with either the Lex/550 mod with SAFC or Maft-Pro. If you want to do this properly and ensure a good tune and a happy engine. Go for a Standalone off the bat or a piggyback. I recommend the ECUMasters DET-3 piggyback for this. It allows the tuner to have some control over timing which is very important. As far as the limits go on the stock CT-26, it is not worth it to run more than 14psi on the stock turbo. It would be best if you could elaborate more on your goals as far as power, that way we can better help suggest or recommend a setup.
 

boosted mk3 supra

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Sep 16, 2010
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CiTRUS HEiGHTz
I assume I've done the HG right.. I used to work at Toyota as a tech, done multiple HG first time doing this HG was my first time and did it as a factory set up with factory torque. I got the head machine and the block is straight. What consist if doing the HG correctly?

I don't aim for outrageous power maybe 500-600 or so something wihhin reason/street able. I just don't want to do things twice if you know what I mean.

Where could I get a decent piggyback. Not trying to break the bank that's why I was looking into maft/safc off the bat I want just a little more power, I'm looking into a wideband and a drift motion down pipe, then maybe 3in exhaust without a cat and maybe a afpr? I don't know what else just looking for the right direction as I'm mostly familiar with Hondas. Maf is a whole different ball game and the way to tune is different i less I go standalone.

Where would I be able to get a piggyback? What brand?
 

boosted mk3 supra

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Sep 16, 2010
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CiTRUS HEiGHTz
So I see ecu master det3 from enjuku for 450, if I run this stock that's a great platform to start as any mods I can adjust?

Is this easy to hook up?

What is the power capability with this standalone, wideband and being stock?
 

suprarx7nut

YotaMD.com author
Nov 10, 2006
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There's a big jump in your required budget to make over ~350rwhp, IMO. Under that power level you can stick with stock electronics and the CT-26 (perhaps with an increased trim) along with most the stock mechanical parts. Everything's easy under that level. To go above, you start to run up against the limits of a lot of the platform's stock components and you need to invest a lot more in the car. You need a new fuel pump, turbo, injectors, electronics and associated components as well as a host of other items.

If you're planning on 400+whp then go standalone and forget the piggybacks. Also figure out the total investment before you commit to that. If you can't swing the investment for all the needed components, you might find that a well done ~350whp MK3 is fun too.

I say that as someone who bought a car from another Supra enthusiast who ran out of funds before they could build their car. That's a sad prospect, so plan ahead! :)
 

boosted mk3 supra

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Sep 16, 2010
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CiTRUS HEiGHTz
yeah i completely understand, i cant make that big jump to standalone, im trying to get a jump into modding my supra with around 1k. so that's buying a boost gauge, wideband and the piggyback. i guess my main question is would it be stupid to get the piggyback and stay stock but maybe just raise the boost? im just trying to get a little more out of stock for now as in the future i would like to add more as more money comes in.

does having a piggyback make the lex/550 mod redundant? as you can do the mods from the piggyback instead of "faking" your car to increase airflow and fuel cut? (I know the bigger injectors is a must for power)
 

outrider

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Jul 1, 2008
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Stock injectors will flow enough fuel to make ~350 hp (crank) at 80% duty on gasoline. No matter how you shake it you'll need injectors. If you search the internet for an injector calculator you can play around with different scenarios, 350 wheels vs 400 wheels, gasoline vs e85, etc. Get injectors big enough to achieve your goals but don't go too crazy. As the injectors get bigger, they get harder to control when you need very tiny amounts of fuel (like at an idle). For 350 at the wheels 550cc would suffice.

If you're buying something like that DET3 you don't need an AFM.
 

boosted mk3 supra

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Sep 16, 2010
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CiTRUS HEiGHTz
so being stock if i buy an det3 is it pointless until i start to raise boost and get injectors?

i want to off the bat raise the boost with a manual boost controller will the det3 allow me to mess with the stock injectors to compensate for the extra air?

im just trying to figure out if it pointless to get a det3, but also on the other hand in order to maintain any mods i will need some kind of controller, and a safc is 100-200 less then a det and i feel like i get $500 worth of modifications using the det3 cause i can maintain the ignition tables also.
 

boosted mk3 supra

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Sep 16, 2010
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CiTRUS HEiGHTz
i was looking at the det3 kit combo from DM and it has the piggyback along with an IAT sensor and a boost controller.

is this worth it, or should i just go for the det3 along and have $120?
 

JDMMA70

Active Member
Dec 4, 2006
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Piggyback wont have the control over the ecu functions of the EGR. A standalone would. There is a bit of a debate on whether or not you should remove the EGR on a USDM ECU. To be honest it really doesnt matter since it only operates at cruising speeds and is closed at idle and wide open throttle.

If your budget is $1000, and you are aiming for 350whp. Id save up a bit more so you can purchase supporting mods. You want injectors, you want a fuel pump, you want an AFPR, you want a wideband, you'll benefit from a quality intercooler and pipe setup, you'll benefit from a full exhaust. Then you can look at turbos. A 57 trim CT26 will flow enough to reach a 350whp goal. You could potentially max it out just a tad over 400whp. For a setup like this Id go with the DET3 if youre on a budget, but if you can spend the extra coin, go for a standalone and youll benefit in the ability of squeezing every ounce of power out of whatever setup you got with.
 
Oct 11, 2005
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Thousand Oaks, CA
Why do you think lex/550 is super rich? Its running closed loop 98% of the time. Only at WOT is it going to be rich, and that's a good thing for keeping your engine together.
 

suprarx7nut

YotaMD.com author
Nov 10, 2006
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Slow down here. For $1k I think it's pretty simple. Your options are very limited at that point.

1. Full 3" Exhaust, turbo back.
2. Upgraded CT26. The smaller the more reliable and lower boost threshold, the larger the more peak power.
3. Clutch. Stock won't last too long at ~325+ whp.
4. If you still have funds, get injectors cleaned and flow matched or get 550 injectors and pair with LEX AFM.
5. If you still have funds, intercooler.
6. If you have funds left over, get a piggyback or better yet, standalone.

I suspect you'll run out of money on step 2 if you don't already have a full exhaust, and that's assuming you're buying the cheapest Chinese parts available.

500-600whp like in your original post is going to take way more than a $1k budget. Start simple and go from there. A running Supra with ~325whp is a whole lot more fun than a half-assed and broken supra with a couple parts that could, one day, support 600whp. My .02 at least.
 

boosted mk3 supra

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Sep 16, 2010
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CiTRUS HEiGHTz
i was just thinking about going straight pipe from dp back as this is a weekend car wont get driven alot, i was looking at the cx racing dp with elbow.

if i get that with stock turbo, the clutch got replace around 20k ago, with 550's and a lex afm should i get something to control fuel (AFPR)?
 
If I was you in your situation, considering the car runs well, I'd throw that money into suspension components. Everything on these cars is worn out. Get a solid platform to build off of, most suspension components are decently priced and you'd be able to get quite a bit done for the 1k depending. Once thats squared away, hopefully you'd be able to get some more money saved up that you can then put into performance upgrades, and your chassis will be ready for it.

Just my thought process.