What maintenance would you do immediately after purchase, no matter what?

[80083r]

Let's say that you buy a new MkIII, without doing a full inspection of the car. It runs well, for a 23 year old car - but since you love the car so much you want it to be perfect.

So, that's what I did - it's an 89 turbo (white ) and it runs well, boosts pretty good, handles well, a few rattles and squeaks, but nothing serious.

I know a very little about cars in general and the MkIII in specific - but I'm slowly reading through these forums and the TSRM and whatever else I can find. I'm an engineering technician (think halfway between millwright and engineer) with access to a cnc mill and almost no automotive tools.

I replaced springs and struts all around after blowing out a strut mount this spring, next spring I need to replace the clutch (and hopefully NOT the flywheel).

What do you replace EVERY time, what do I need to check/test?

Feel free to point out a thread where this has already been discussed - I searched but only found general info. You can skip head gasket, I'm fully aware of that one.

 

[emericaskater285]

Head gasket

Start out with all the fluids (engine, trans, diff, coolant with toyota red coolant)
You should always do a compression test before buying, and a boost leak test after you bring it home to ensure it is going to be running to its full potential.
If the clutch is slipping then yes I would replace it, but there is no need to replace it if its not slipping, and you are going with around stock power, and aren't abusing it, unless you want peace of mind.
Clean it inside and out (and the engine bay) wash, buff, clay, and wax it if the paint is good.

 

[supraguy@aol]

That's a good list right there.
If the car has green coolant, do a flush and put Toyota red coolant in it. It lasts longer, and is much kinder to aluminum heads.
As for the flywheel, all you need to do is have it surfaced when you have the clutch replaced. When it is done, all you need to make sure of is that the machine shop insures that it has the factory spec
backstep cut into it, so that the clutch grabs like it should.

 

[roadboy]

when i bought my supra, i did all the fluids, (power steering, oil, transmission, diff, clutch) then i bought a bare block and worked on it for about a year before my turbo blew. right timing you could say. now im doing all my suspension arms.

 

[IJ.]

Carefully check all hoses, as long as the big ass banjo on the back of the head isn't leaking DO NOT try to replace it!

 

[te72]

All depends on what you call "perfect" my friend...

If given the money and a month or so off work, I could probably get one of these cars into like-new condition. Considering that I have a budget to work with and only so much time available, I tackle things that I know I can handle. Remember, it is rarely a good idea to get TOO far into tinkering if you are in a position of NEEDING the car.

Should give that "living with a Supra" thread in my signature link a read, it's worth your time, and should give you some of the basics I've learned over the years.


Still surprised nobody has asked you for pictures yet...

 

[suprarx7nut]

If you really have no tools, I'd start there. I can remember when I had only very basic tools and it made most jobs much more painful than they need to be. I'd argue having the right tools is as important if not even more important than having experience.

Get a good set of tools, and buy the right tools for every job you do. For a long while my tools were worth more than my cars and it made it soooo much nicer to work on things.

If nothing is really wrong right now, save your $$$, buy some tools, research the work and save for when it does break.

 

[80083r]

I'd be almost embarassed to post pictures yet... the paint is less than perfect

The clutch is mostly for peace of mind - I could drive it easy and the clutch doesn't slip, but when I hit the "go-fast" button there's a nasty burning smell. No slip that I can feel, but then I'm not the most sensitive individual.

It's definitely stock power (or less)

This is a sunday driver - my daily is a 2005 Pontiac Pursuit (G5 to those south of the 49th parallel) so no worries about "needing" the car running.

I think I have read your "living with a Supra" link... but a refresher won't hurt.

A good cleaning and paint is on the list - I just wanted to know what things I should check for... so compression test and turbo leak test incoming, with a fluid changeover to follow - that I can afford. Then hoses and whatnot with silicone replacements or hard piping as applicable, then clutch as I can afford it.

Anyone have a link to a good picture (or a drawing with dimensions?) of the "air pan" that goes under the front of the car? I read a lot of advice that says it should be on or off the car, but it's missing on mine, and I'd like the option, at least. or can you buy a replacement for that?

My budget for this car is "whatever my wife will part with" - so far about $1k / year. I figure 25 years to get the car where I really want it at that pace

 

[djshoester]

Perhaps also check the water pump if the supra has one for the coolant. From what I know, I replace the water pump every 100k miles to make sure that there will be no issues with cooling for the car I drive.

 

[SideWinderGX]

Oil change with filter, I'd leave the coolant if it looks good without sludge and gunk in it. ALL coolant hoses, ALL vacuum hoses, oil/power steering/tranny hoses as necessary. Plugs definitely. Plug wires with OEM if necessary. I might even try to clean up all the grounds with a wirebrush, and if they suck you can always buy new ones from Toyota.

That should put you in the ball park to have a good running motor, or help you diagnose other problems.

 

[T701jz]

If this car was bought with perfect compression I wouldn't touch the engine @ all. Replace all the hoses especially the coolant hoses. Assuming the breaks were never done then it's time for a complete overhaul. Keep the fluid level @ all time and oil changes @ due date.

 

[IndigoMKII]

I'd do like most here suggested..

I'd change all fluids, all of them. I'd do a complete tune up along with probably even a fuel filter. Depending if the car has been sitting I'd probably drop the tank and get the tank cleaned along with checking the operation of the calipers. My car had been sitting for 3 years when I bought it and passenger rear caliper was not engaging at all. I wouldn't check the clutch unless it's heavily slipping but I would tug on some of the suspension parts along with the driveshaft to check for any slack.

 

[MkIII FTW]

Well when my brother and I bought supra's, both of them ended up having fuel issues. The fuel filter, and the gas tank was gunked up with bad fuel. So if I had to do it all over again, the tank would be the first thing I would do. Mostly because in my opinion its the biggest pain in the rear. Afterwards I would just follow suit with the plans the other guys have already laid out.

 

[80083r]

I had to do some welding under the hatch when i bought it to get it certified, so i have dropped the tank - it's pristine inside, so I think I'm ok there - but sometime in the future I need to replace the fuel pump hanger - I had to refab some of the tubing coming out of it. Thanks for the reminder.

 

[te72]

OP, you can still buy OEM under trays. Your cooling system will thank you for it too.

I paid about $120 or so back about 4 years ago.

 

[80083r]

OP, you can still buy OEM under trays. Your cooling system will thank you for it too.

I paid about $120 or so back about 4 years ago.

Ack! anyone have dims on them so I can form my own? I can use scrap aluminum and the tooling at work to make it for $Time_spent. If not - I'll go buy one... but there are so many things to fix.

 

[Silver MK3]

Ack! anyone have dims on them so I can form my own? I can use scrap aluminum and the tooling at work to make it for $Time_spent. If not - I'll go buy one... but there are so many things to fix.

The undertray is molded to fit perfectly around everything down there. It would probably be hard and not worth it to try and make one.

 

[80083r]

Ah well, I'll look for one as money becomes available. Thanks all!

 

[Nick M]

I wouldn't do anything until the I inspected the car.

 

[80083r]

I wouldn't do anything until the I inspected the car.

Okay - what are you looking for? I'm trying to sort out what the common faults are, what are the critical areas that I should focus on, and how to diagnose if a problem exists.

I can read the TSRM, but that's a huge breadth of information. I want to focus on the important stuff first. So far most of what I've heard coincides with my thoughts - fluids, rubber parts and wear parts. I work in the marine and rail window manufacture industry I'm very aware of the time it takes neoprene rubber to get stiff, shrink and crack.