What Head gasket has the best firing rings

[1-2clutch-u]

I am on the hunt for a good mhg. I will be running more boost then stock and the car will be road raced. I had a commetic on it since 2007 (pics below) and it did well for the most part. (except when it blew) The fireing rings between the cyls failed or you tell me what you think. But I dont really want to spend $400 and 4wks back log on a hks stopper. What else should I run? Titian? Hks bead SIP? any input? And no jz for me if i wanted a jz id get an mk4 and if i wanted a mk4 Id get a zo6 vett and if I had a vett then I wouldn't be on here. So just stick to that. :icon_bigg

 

[fonz87]

I have a HKS bead on mine and its held up just fine so far. I have done couple 140 pulls and knock on wood it held just fine. I would recommend Stoppers since you track it.
Sakio had a stopper on his and it blew recently last summer but he beat the fuck out of his car for it to blow. I think you will be fine with a Stopper

 

[Skeezix]

IIRC the Titan ans SIP ones are just cometic gaskets

 

[505turboman]

I had an HKS 2mm stopper headgasket 86mm diameter with arp head studs. It was a beast till I broke off a valve into piston #3 lol. Seriously though I never question that gasket.

 

[IJ.]

Normal MLS MHG's DON'T have "firerings".... they're used on Composite HG's and are usually steel to stop combustion burning away the HG material, A HKS Stopper uses a layer that is folder over a couple of the other layers to keep gases in the hole but as you've found they can be hard to source and are a bit exe and WILL blow if there's anything wrong with the Combination..

Any of the Bead style MHG's are fine, I'd shop based on availability/price as there's little if any difference between various brands quality wise.

 

[Poodles]

1) If you're blowing out between cylinders with any MHG, you have issues that need to be addressed.
2) HKS Stopper is the only one that isn't build like the rest.

 

[1-2clutch-u]

Poodles what do you think caused it or what would would my issues be?

 

[RogueCustoms]

I've run a Titan MHG, ARP head bolts and mine has held 20 psi.

 

[1-2clutch-u]

Iv ran 22 on stock ct for miles and miles but it went as you see

 

[Poodles]

There's your answer :rofl: It's just blowing hot air at that point, not to mention you might not have the fuel... Usually lean/detonation causes failures.

 

[radiod]

Poodles is right. You're pretty much just heating up your intake charge more if you push a stock CT26 over 14 or 15 psi. What sort of supporting fuel/electronic mods do you have to support the higher boost?

 

[1-2clutch-u]

got every thing I need to run higher boost but, Its really only spiking 20 and tapering down to 15. Thats how i had the avcr set up on kill mode when I was stock ct. Had fun didnt knock or lean out but I gotta say Its in the tune. How ever I think I used spray gasket last time cant remember but that would have helped I'm sure.

 

[IJ.]

got every thing I need to run higher boost but, Its really only spiking 20 and tapering down to 15. Thats how i had the avcr set up on kill mode when I was stock ct. Had fun didnt knock or lean out but I gotta say Its in the tune. How ever I think I used spray gasket last time cant remember but that would have helped I'm sure.

The engine failed so the "tune" can't be right....

Google "incipient detonation"

 

[Nick M]

they're used on Composite HG's and are usually steel to stop combustion burning away the HG material, A HKS Stopper uses a layer that is folder over a couple of the other layers to keep gases in the hole but as you've found they can be hard to source and are a bit exe and WILL blow if there's anything wrong with the Combination..

I burned one up once, on a 7MGE. I leaned out the motor after decking the head for compression. I did the opposite of the regular air flow meter mod, and tightend up the spring a little bit.

 

[1-2clutch-u]

so your saying it could have been rihgt on the edge of knocking IJ? eh its ok now as its poped.

 

[IJ.]

It failed so something is wrong...
IncpDet is one explanation that needs to be looked at and steps take to remove/reduce it or this will happen again, I'd also be Zygloing the Ring Lands if you're reusing that piston set.

 

[1-2clutch-u]

Ij you are so beyond my years. You might be the most knowledgeable person that I have ever spoken with. In the few write ups Iv done (if you can call em that) I think that maybe id help somebody or answer some questions. Thank you for everything. ok now for the bro session to be over. lol. zygloing is to check for cracks right? At this point I hope to get the head back all cleaned up and done up with the valve job done and bc valve springs. Then use arp undercut studs, use a hks bead and then fix my crank key way issue and start the car. If at that point I have issues and something is wrong aka i got a cracked piston or deck issues then I will pull out and sell the car. azp brakes good diff and all the good stuff Iv put in. What Im saying, is if anyone pulls a stock 7m out the car and opens up the bottom end they should build it. I cant build this motor at this point in my life so I will let go.

 

[IJ.]

Correct Zyglo is a crack test for Aluminium, given the life the engine has led I'd expect it to have a few cracked ring lands, keeping that in mind I WOULDN'T be leaning on it too heavily once you get it running again, maybe back the boost down some as the guys have pointed out the CT is so far off its efficiency island at this point it's just making hot air and this can contribute to the ID I mentioned (I know this after losing an engine when I ran out of IC and kept pushing it)

I’m not trying to be a smartass or a knowitall just lending a helping hand!

 

[1-2clutch-u]

i know that was a guanine thank you.