what h/g should i buy
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JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
JaV - Just be careful about the MHG thickness you use...you def don't want to increase compression any more than the Wiscos! When you start boosting, control it in increments monitoring with a wideband...don't need no stinkin detonation :runaway:
BTW...the 3mm IJ has could just be the ticket
BTW...the 3mm IJ has could just be the ticket
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
BTW JaV - You've seen me post no telling how many times about using a spray sealer on a MHG. Well...if you end up getting IJ's 3mm Cometic, you want to use a sealer. It's used...there is no more factory sealer to turn into goo
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
Yep, you never stop lol.
I recall that very well. I will make sure to check it, of course I can just ask IJ.
I recall that very well. I will make sure to check it, of course I can just ask IJ.
To clear things up, when I state "sanding" basically what I am saying is, using 2000 grit sandpaper on a sanding block. I remove any part of the stock HG that remains, getting it as close to the stock surface as possible. Therefore not much if any material has been removed. And also, when using an exstension while torquing you lose torque, therefore 90 ft/lbs, does not equal 90 ft/lbs. Also I the 2 stock HGs I have hanging on my wall, un-used measure out to be 1.47 mm, uncompressed. So if you have your head resurfaced, not milled, which both times I have done HGs, the usually take off .003" off which=.07mm. Just some facts for people who think my motor is GHETTO. RUns great, and when I feel the NEED to do a leak down test, I will send the numbers. This is a stock bottom end build, when I go forged, everything will be machined to spec. But it is just funny how many cars are done like this with no problems....
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drbowser3 said:
Look...you are defending a position that has no defense.
Ask any machinist about using sandpaper to surface a precision surface. That look of disbelief on his face is real...there is no way you can convince me or anyone else here that sanding a block to resurface it is the right way. It's just flat wrong and has been proven time and again to FUBAR a block.
Your premise concerning MHG thickness is based on removing no material (sanding the block). This is wrong...the math does not lie. And you are basing thickness on a composite gasket that will compress...down to 1.37mm to be exact.
You're saying that an extension causes inaccurate torque numbers? Funny none of the ARP engineers figured that out
Yes I'm splitting hairs, but someone that does a MHG install needs to know the RIGHT way and make their decision to cut corners. You made that decision and so far have gotten away with it...at least for now. But someone that does not know may read what you have to say and think that's something they can do...I've see your technique fail far more many times than it has succeeded. There's a lot of guys on here that have seen the same.
Wanna prove your point...post some compression numbers.
So if I had a completely untampered head/block, I could put on a Cometic 1.4mm HG with no problems?
-Matt
-Matt
IJ - You use a lapping plate (or is it a table), with diamond paste if I recall to get to the RA spec for your HKS Stopper.
Matt: You
JDub and I must have hit send at the same time I missed his post!
JD: Yep I bought a Lapping plate and some diamond paste!
When I took the block back to the machine shop they were blown away by how smooth it was!
One of their machinsts commented "That's not one of our jobs!"
JDub and I must have hit send at the same time I missed his post!
JD: Yep I bought a Lapping plate and some diamond paste!
When I took the block back to the machine shop they were blown away by how smooth it was!
One of their machinsts commented "That's not one of our jobs!"
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