So I know that this is a year old thread, but I'm figuring out the right size injectors that I would need to make 450 rwhp on a 2j. I read the linked chart and just to be safe should I go over on injector size?
what electronics for 500+ hp
- Thread starter SBM713
- Start date
I was just thinking if I happened to go over my goal, then I wouldn't destroy my injectors, but I think I'll be fine
After about 5 years I am starting up my supra build again. I currently have a hks fcon/gcc combo would that be good enough to get me to 500rwhp on pump or would upgrading to a standalone be the best thing to do? I don't want to have to upgrade if not really needed.
500 Rwhp on pump has to be planned carefully.
Your talking 7m so it's more difficult. The stock head isn't really built for that and one electronic glitch and your looking at melted pistons. I run on 91 octane pump (advertised, so not reliably 91), built bottom 7m and rebuilt upper (stock valve train, cams and no porting). I capped mine at 400 RWHP for safety reasons.
You can do high power, but if you plan on doing it cheap you better have it mapped out and talk it over with someone reliable that understands it. I could simply turn up my boost and reach 500+, but that's risky. One bad batch the of fuel or any 25 year old car electronic hiccup and I would be entering the land of JZ swap....
I can do it simpler by using race gas... That has controlled octane levels.
Then I start worrying about valve float... Bearings... Oil...
Your talking 7m so it's more difficult. The stock head isn't really built for that and one electronic glitch and your looking at melted pistons. I run on 91 octane pump (advertised, so not reliably 91), built bottom 7m and rebuilt upper (stock valve train, cams and no porting). I capped mine at 400 RWHP for safety reasons.
You can do high power, but if you plan on doing it cheap you better have it mapped out and talk it over with someone reliable that understands it. I could simply turn up my boost and reach 500+, but that's risky. One bad batch the of fuel or any 25 year old car electronic hiccup and I would be entering the land of JZ swap....
I can do it simpler by using race gas... That has controlled octane levels.
Then I start worrying about valve float... Bearings... Oil...
Grandavi The head is fully ported and polished, valve job, port matched the works. BC272 cams, springs & retainers valves etc. Fresh unistalled toyota spec short block plan on building a bottom end though. Need to go bigger fuel thinking of 750cc injectors maybe second 255lph fuel pump and redo the fuel lines from car setting 5 years. Turbo is a SP59GT that I got off of Mr.Supra years ago, if I remember correctly he made 511whp at 24psi on pump with stock motor (besides metal HG) and lex afm and safcII. With that should I just stick with the fcon/gcc and save the money and build the bottom end rods, arp bolts, billet main caps etc.(already have ross Pistons) Or stick with the fresh rebuilt stock bottom and get rid of the fcon/gcc and go standalone? The reason for the questions i yes money, I think it will be easier to install the built head on to a built block with piggy back now then go standalone down the road than it is to to install a built head onto a stock bottom with a standalone and go built bottom down the road. Just trying to see which would be the better option.
I shortcutted and skipped standalone... Regret doing that. I'm full stand alone now and haven't looked back.
It's crucial to make sure the standalone has a good tuner though.
Piggyback is fairly good for up to 400 and possibly higher, but I wouldn't recommend it. Cammed and ported head is great, did you beef up the springs to help prevent valve float at upper RPM, because I think 272's give you a great top end at high RPM at the cost of lower RPM power.
I have a MKIV Denso fuel pump feeding ID 1000 cc injectors. I chose ID because they have excellent control over 300 cc to 1000 cc feeds. They cycle perfect.
Remember to, that 400 RWHP is different than your mustang. You will likely enjoy it far more.
I'm not familiar with your turbo specs, but if it's capable, you can do it. I would also run meth injection if 500 rwhp+.
But only if it's controlled injection, I'm not a fan of throttle body injection on our cars, no way to ensure each cylinder is equal.
Your bottom end sounds built enough, the stock 7m can do about 600 crank, but that's pushing it.
Personally I wouldn't risk piggyback over 400 RWHP. And I wouldn't run 500 RWHP on just pump gas.
It's crucial to make sure the standalone has a good tuner though.
Piggyback is fairly good for up to 400 and possibly higher, but I wouldn't recommend it. Cammed and ported head is great, did you beef up the springs to help prevent valve float at upper RPM, because I think 272's give you a great top end at high RPM at the cost of lower RPM power.
I have a MKIV Denso fuel pump feeding ID 1000 cc injectors. I chose ID because they have excellent control over 300 cc to 1000 cc feeds. They cycle perfect.
Remember to, that 400 RWHP is different than your mustang. You will likely enjoy it far more.
I'm not familiar with your turbo specs, but if it's capable, you can do it. I would also run meth injection if 500 rwhp+.
But only if it's controlled injection, I'm not a fan of throttle body injection on our cars, no way to ensure each cylinder is equal.
Your bottom end sounds built enough, the stock 7m can do about 600 crank, but that's pushing it.
Personally I wouldn't risk piggyback over 400 RWHP. And I wouldn't run 500 RWHP on just pump gas.