what do I need in a rebuild?
- Thread starter 87Superdupra
- Start date
It's way more fun doing it yourself 
I did, and saved about $600 in the process. I'm with all these guys tho. DO a stock build, when you eventually blow that up then go forged, by that time you'll be needing it more cause you blew up this one :biglaugh:
It'll be way lighter on the wallet for a stock-like build also, leaving more cash for some things like injectors, electronics, exhaust and that shizzle.
eric
I did, and saved about $600 in the process. I'm with all these guys tho. DO a stock build, when you eventually blow that up then go forged, by that time you'll be needing it more cause you blew up this one :biglaugh: It'll be way lighter on the wallet for a stock-like build also, leaving more cash for some things like injectors, electronics, exhaust and that shizzle.
eric
Okay If everyone is unanimous then I'm goin' with: ARP Rod bolts and main studs for insurance, and then ARP headstuds (or bolts) and a MHG, and make sure everything is prepped to a low enough RA for the MHG you select! -What mm HG & Brand Should I use, I know 1.2mm is popular.Stretch said:It's way more fun doing it yourself
It'll be way lighter on the wallet for a stock-like build also, leaving more cash for some things like injectors, electronics, exhaust and that shizzle.
eric
Stretch and everyone else: I don't want to spend 3 grand again anytime soon. Will that rebuild^ last me a while @ 14psi? I'll be running stock boost when not haulin' ass.
...Oh and by the way I'm 6'7''... what it do
go arp head studs, depending on how much is taken off i would go hks 2mm stopper head gasket. and at 14 psi with that set up you should be ableto run all day long. even hauling ass. aslong as your support systems (oil, coolant, fuel) are all running perfectly too.
Yes it'll last as much as the stuck turbo can dish out, and then some, as long as it's prepped and built correctly!
Cometic MHG's give you the most tolerance, it requires an RA of 50 or less, others require RA of 30 or less (the bigger the number, the more uneven the surface)
As far as thickness, it has nothing to do with popularity, you need to know how much material has ever been taken off of the block, and the head, then add the difference to the stock gasket thickness and you get the thickness you'll need to shoot for with the new gasket, that way you maintain stock compression!
Cometic MHG's give you the most tolerance, it requires an RA of 50 or less, others require RA of 30 or less (the bigger the number, the more uneven the surface)
As far as thickness, it has nothing to do with popularity, you need to know how much material has ever been taken off of the block, and the head, then add the difference to the stock gasket thickness and you get the thickness you'll need to shoot for with the new gasket, that way you maintain stock compression!
87Superdupra said:
Thats how is should be!:slap:
hey you could go that extra mile and pick up some n/a cams that should help u with some extra kick if u have not already done it. i picked some up for 20 bucks shipped.
Guit Guit sells cryogenically treated pistons for 225 on ebay. There stock but treated to handle more horsepower. What exactly is shot peened anyway. Will someone please pm me to explain what it means and what they do because i dont know if ill remember to look at this thread later. he also sells king bearings that are supposed to be really good. Get an upgraded turbo possibly too and that horsepower will be easily achieved with out the turbo working hard. Thanks in advance if anyone pms details on shot peened rods.
suprapower1221 said:
This is shot peening:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shot_peening
Basically to remove stress. I am glad you're going with a less involved build superdupra since if I was to do it over again I would also. It's cool to say yeah i have JEW pistons, eagle rods, fully built head blah blah, but it's very draining financially, so if you aren't ready for it, do this build and you'll be rock solid for a long time. Maybe think about buying an NA oil filter mount bolt so that you can run a remote oil filter with cooler. It'll make changing filters much easier. Make sure to replace the oil pump and water pump also. Other than that it's just a gasket set, mhg, arp's and some sweat
OH! and bearings ofcourse
Go with cometic, very forgiving as others have stated. I did, I had to remove one rivet which was cake. I simply used piers to bend it inwards then pulled it out. 2 mins max.
eric
Okay...so my upgrade parts will be ARP Rod Bolts, Main Studs and head bolts with MHG, and Felpro Gasket set for rest of engine. Oh yeah I already have a 13 row performance oil cooler with the oil filter relocation kit. Real easy to get to the filter but its pointed directly downward, kinda messy when changing it. Definatley gonna bring it to a shop for fast turnaround time.
ARP head studs man, you can't go wrong with them. They clamp more evenly than the bolts do. Check most ppl on here with ARP equipment, they run the studs .
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I take it you mean main caps? You get main cap studs, they come with 2 bolts to replace the studs that go under the oil pump since otherweise there isn't enough clearance. For rods you get only bolts, no rod studs. Yet
eric
eric
Run a tap through the threads to clean em out! The most important threads to clean are the threads for the headbolts/studs and the main cap's
Apparently avoiding doing this is one of the causes for the cracks stemming from the threads for the headbolts! (Taken straight out of the horses, errr IJ's mouth :biglaugh: )
Go to the technical section here, and find the 2 great 7M Building guides! One's probably on page 2, the other i think is on page 6 or 7
Apparently avoiding doing this is one of the causes for the cracks stemming from the threads for the headbolts! (Taken straight out of the horses, errr IJ's mouth :biglaugh: )
Go to the technical section here, and find the 2 great 7M Building guides! One's probably on page 2, the other i think is on page 6 or 7
Hey guys. looking for comments on what my machinist told be about the arp rod and main cap bolts. He said since these fasteners torque down differently, that the main will have to be line honed. He suggested using the stock main bolts to avoid this process. He is by no means against using the arp's but he is trying to save me money. But he did think using the arp rod bolts would be a good idea. He doesnt seem to think it would be a problem at all to use the factory main studs. He seems to be a very knowlegeable machinist as well. Chime in everyone!
I've been boosting 15 psi on stock internals for almost 2 years now. I also use Bi-Tron (see my sig)
