What did you do to your supra today? Pics
- Thread starter boostinsupra
- Start date
ryansmith;1852140 said:
Lol, that is pretty far away. Oh, and it's my Ebay site. But shipping might be harsh lol. Good luck man!
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this.................. my "new" wheels and tires. 18x8 +40, and 18x9.5 +35
https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/394763_10151868077635154_1217226110_n.jpg
don't worry, my kyb's and h&r springs will be on by the weekend.
https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/394763_10151868077635154_1217226110_n.jpg
don't worry, my kyb's and h&r springs will be on by the weekend.
gsxr141;1852271 said:this.................. my "new" wheels and tires. 18x8 +40, and 18x9.5 +35
https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/394763_10151868077635154_1217226110_n.jpg
don't worry, my kyb's and h&r springs will be on by the weekend.
Holy shit your car looks like a clone of mine, without the stickers though.
Doat;1852273 said:
Just DON'T keep torquing on it the same way! Try going back and fourth after using a solvent. As an alternative if you can find a way to apply upward pressure while wrenching, it will increase your chances of jumping to the next thread. I had the same issue with my master brake cylinder. Used a chisel and hammer to jump threads. Ended up using washers as spacers for the stripped area, but that won't work for the head...
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"Jumping" WTF are you on about... :nono:
Soon as you get 1 full rotation of engagement and keep the Tap vertical in the hole it's not ever going to "jump" threads.. seriously I have NFI where you guys pull this total and utter bullshit from...
Soon as you get 1 full rotation of engagement and keep the Tap vertical in the hole it's not ever going to "jump" threads.. seriously I have NFI where you guys pull this total and utter bullshit from...
That is why I was asking because if you make it jump threads then that is basically like ripping the bolt out and damaging the threads. I want to get this bolt out safely without damaging anything but I don't care if the bolt itself gets damaged because I have ARP studs coming in.
Pretty much, it still sort of has the hex shape but it's mostly rounded. I can tighten the bolt but when it comes to loosening it is when it strips.
Try an 7/16th imperial Inhex socket, you'll have to hammer it into the bolt and keep the extension vertical as you apply pressure on the ratchet handle.
Is there another way? It would be nice to have like a list of methods because at the moment I am broke lol
A big easy out, probably going to cost as much as an inhex, a 10mm allenkey cut 2" off the end and hit it into the bolt with a hammer and get someone to tack weld it to the bolt head, then use a 10mm socket to undo it.Doat;1852305 said:
Seriously though if you're broke the Mk3/7M combination is the wrong car for you...
Yea a friend of mine was saying we might have to weld something on and get it out that way. Well the 7m I have has been well taken care of, 81k miles and I don't plan on driving it often anyway just need to replace the head gasket and a few other gaskets along the way and it should be good to go.IJ.;1852306 said:A big easy out, probably going to cost as much as an inhex, a 10mm allenkey cut 2" off the end and hit it into the bolt with a hammer and get someone to tack weld it to the bolt head, then use a 10mm socket to undo it.
Seriously though if you're broke the Mk3/7M combination is the wrong car for you...
IJ.;1852299 said:
I thought he was talking about taking the nut off the bolt... Obviously it's a different situation lol... Sorry for the confusion...
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There are some threads stripped on my head from the PO. Think I'm going to have to use a tap and die set...
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Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2
Easy-out FTW. There are also rounded bolt removers (Versions of which tire shops use if you have wheel locks with no keys) which work. I was looking at a set at Canadian Tire today, about $35. Weld in an allen key piece is nice and cheap if you have access to a welder. Possibly cheaper and requiring less tools is a big drill bit. A 3/8" drill bit will remove the head of the bolt, and leave a stud in place. With no torque on the bolt, this is likely to be relatively easy to remove with the head off, and you'll have a lot more options, worst case. I like the idea of hammering in the 7/16" socket, too.
Drilling the head off works well just not if he's left the engine in the car
("might" be able to unbolt the trans mount and jack the trans till it hits the floor and that might allow enough tilt to slide the head up and off the dead bolt shaft not really sure on a LHD car though)
("might" be able to unbolt the trans mount and jack the trans till it hits the floor and that might allow enough tilt to slide the head up and off the dead bolt shaft not really sure on a LHD car though)