What did you do to your supra today? Pics

Grandavi

Active Member
Sep 25, 2008
2,664
6
38
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
BryanDyer;1940333 said:
I actually have that exact same turbo on my list of things to to..what ar did you get?

There is no "readable" AR for this one because its a bolt-on replacement for a CT26. The housings are custom made specifically for that purpose so I can use my stock exhaust manifold and downpipe.
Supposedly the 6262 are the measurements. (compressor inlet/inducer = 62 mm and turbine exducer= 62 mm), so... I am not sure what the ar is as the only options are inducer/exducer sizing of which 6262 is the biggest with this housing.

Because I am just barely turbo literate, I am not sure that I have enough information to say what the ar is. I do know that this is the largest I would go without going T4... and I still plan to go T4.. but probably not 3-4 years from now.


STOLEN EXPLANATION FROM Automotive helper dot com....

The exhaust and compressor housings on turbo chargers use a "scroll" design.

For example, the exhaust housing's scroll is where the exhaust gasses enter the housing and are directed at the turbine. It's basically a smooth, tubular chamber that surrounds the turbine with a slot all the way around that acts as a nozzle to direct the exhaust gasses at the turbine. It's called a scroll because it slowly gets smaller in diameter as a goes around the turbine. This pressurizes the gasses, forcing them out of the slot/nozzle at a fast rate. In turbo-terms, the scroll is measured by the cross-sectional area of the scroll's "tube" (A) and the distance from the center of the "tube" to the turbine shaft (R). The values by themselves are not meaningful to the user and for the most part, R does not change much for different housings, but by dividing R into A, you get the A/R ratio. So, the A/R ratio of the exhaust housing refers to the size and shape of the scroll that is cast into the housing. It basically determines how restrictive the housing will be, versus how quickly the turbine will spin up. A lower A/R ratio (smaller scroll area, A) results in a more restrictive housing. This restriction speeds up the exhaust gasses and increases the amount that the gasses will expand. It's the speed and expansion of the gasses that causes the turbine to spin. So with a low A/R ratio, the turbine will spin up quicker, but as engine output and rpms increase, the restriction of the housing begins to build up too much back pressure on the engine, which reduces performance. A good rule of thumb for when there is too much back pressure is when the pressure in the exhaust manifold is more the half of the pressure in the cylinder. So basically, a larger A/R ratio will improve your engine's top end, while losing some mid range power and increasing turbo lag. A smaller A/R ratio will help the bottom and mid-range, but may effect the top end.

On the compressor side, the housing also features a scroll design, but it has the opposite function. The air leaving the compressor turbine has a lot of speed, but not much pressure. The scroll on the compressor housing starts small and gets larger as it approaches the compressor outlet. This collects the air and builds up air pressure. So, the compressor housing is designed to convert the speed-energy of the air coming off of the compressor turbine into pressure-energy, which is much more useful to an engine.
 

Dan_Gyoba

Turbo Swapper
Aug 9, 2007
1,836
0
0
Alberta
www.gyoba.com
I got the starter out of the 90. I really really hate that top starter bolt. I ended up managing to snake a long extension with a u joint and a 14mm socket in past the A/C compressor and got it onto the nut. I had to move the brake master cylinder and proportioning valve to push the end into place past the EGR VSV.

I bought 4 quarts of Redline MT90, so that I can put fresh fluid in, too. The fluid that I drained looked okay, but fresh is better.

The transmission is hanging by the 2 bolts on the sides at present, so I'll definitely have it out, and the new(er) clutch installed tomorrow. I don't know if I'll have everything back in place tomorrow, but it ought to be done by the weekend.
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,238
42
48
Atlanta
Put a warning light/ buzzer into the gauge cluster for low oil pressure.


p1940355_1.jpg
 

Dan_Gyoba

Turbo Swapper
Aug 9, 2007
1,836
0
0
Alberta
www.gyoba.com
Okay, got the transmission out of the '90 today. Removed the flywheel (It looks awful, it's definitely been overheated. Cracks visible on the friction surface, probably junk.) Bolted the flywheel from the '89 in. That clutch is just past break-in, so no need to machine the surface. Torqued the ARP flywheel bolts to 55 ft-lbs.

Installed the Action stage 3 clutch. Used a new pilot bearing, but I left the throwout bearing that I installed in the '89, since it's definitely new enough for the time being. Plan is that this is all coming out later anyway when I install the rebuilt engine.

With some help from my daughter, I got the transmission bolted to the back of the motor. I put the clutch slave on, but I haven't bolted the clutch cover to the flywheel yet.

Also installed the Koyo radiator, mostly. Still need to connect up the upper radiator hose, since the motor is at an odd angle. It was a royal pain to put the stock fan shroud in (Didn't actually do that with the '89) but it's in. Interesting to find that the aux fans don't QUITE bolt up. The top 2 bolt locations are fine, but the bottom one is off by a bit. At the angle that the engine is currently at, there's also bare millimeters of clearance to the A/C compressor for the aux fans. Hopefully that's better once the rear transmission mount is bolted in place. I'll have to work something out for the bottom aux fan mounting.

The front frame brace is missing on this car. I don't know how critical that is, but I'm planning on installing one. I'll borrow the other one for the time being, but I'll want one for the other car, too.

I'm having a surprisingly hard time finding a gasket for the exhaust. I've tried a couple of local exhaust shops. No luck. Mopac, JB's, Canadian Tire for cryin' out loud. Nothing. It's a 3" 2 bolt flange. I didn't think that should be difficult to find, but apparently...

I think I'll just take the downpipe into a shop and see if they can match it that way. While I'm at it, maybe I'll get them to put the wideband O2 sensor bung on it.

Still left to do (Before it's at least driveable):

Bolt in starter, Bolt pressure plate to flywheel, bolt up rear transmission mount, install driveshaft, install clutch inspection covers, install exhaust, install shifter.

End result: '90 upgraded to stage 3 clutch, Koyo radiator, and Tanabe exhaust. Once the rebuilt motor is ready, this will be a fun car to drive.
 

Doat

Active Member
Feb 6, 2012
2,599
0
36
Houston, TX
Changed out the clutch master cylinder with an Aisin replacement from Rockauto but the banjo bolt was in a different position luckily; however, it fit fine but was a bit of a pain to get the bolt in. No more stuck clutch problems!! yay.
935725_4981351933769_1717919879_n.jpg
 

gsxr141

Active Member
Oct 24, 2010
1,158
10
38
rochester
picked up some new wheels and tires, :). i also got one step closer to either trading my car for the red 87, or just throwing the spare engine in my car.
 

jdmfreak

PACNW
Oct 8, 2010
2,232
0
0
north clark co. WA.
I know but her truck didn't start and I figure it's gonna be Ok cause it's currently n/a... And I just installed pedal covers to make the gas and brake pedals a little wider for the heel/toe and haven't adjusted them yet so the gas pedal doesn't quite go to full throttle before hitting the floorboards :p
 

Doat

Active Member
Feb 6, 2012
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36
Houston, TX
Pics or it did not happen!! Don't care if it's dark, raining, snowing, or a zombie apocalypse WE NEED PICTUREEEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
 

Silver MK3

New Member
Jan 24, 2011
1,517
1
0
Madison, AL
I installed my new polyurethane steering rack bushings today. What should have taken 2 hours or so ended up taking about 5 because I do not have a third hand...
 

Doat

Active Member
Feb 6, 2012
2,599
0
36
Houston, TX
That's usually how things go with our cars lol, I am looking to replacing some suspension stuff mainly bushings since they are 20 years old also there is an annoying pigeon squeak in the rear passenger I hear it the most at low speeds like when I am backing out of my driveway and such what exactly is causing that squeak?