What brand to get for a thermostat?

[megachao]

Hello,
I do not know a good brand to get for a thermostat and gasket.
I was thinking of going to autozone to order one but not sure what to get.
If u guys could list some good quality brands to replace my old thermostat that would be great.
I have a 1989 Supra turbo.

Was also wondering what size is the oil filter.

 

[Fletch124]

Toyota for thermostat. And get a Napa Gold(Wix) oil filter or Pureone.

 

[starscream5000]

Stant superstat 180* or 190* (the stock rated one).

 

[dbsupra90]

on the tstat be sure you cut off the jiggle valve and drill out the hole a little bigger. really helps with keeping air out of the system.

 

[megachao]

since im geting a new oil filter. what grade of oil should i get. im from socal and its hot all day long 80F-100+F

 

[F_T_F]

what grade of oil should i get

the one with the prettiest lable.

 

[starscream5000]

Try out Penzoil Platinum 5W 30

 

[megachao]

ty u guys for all the help

 

[sneakypete]

i agree stay with the toyota tstat
but if you happen to had rebuilt within the last year or two, or more recent, go with mobil 1 sythetic. if its the original engine and still has the original seals, stay with regular oil, otherwise the seals will leak.
-pete

 

[starscream5000]

The seals will not leak by switching to synthetic, that is a myth. The only reason seals would leak by doing so is if the seals were already deteriorated and being sealed up by gunk and grime only. Synthetic oil does a great job of cleaning out gunk, grime, and deposits, so if that's the only things holding a seal for you, then yeah, you get the idea.

Also, it is widely believed that Mobil one is no longer marketing synthetic oil and only labeling them as such, since it's not illegal to do so in the US. It has already been proven that one type of oil they market is indeed a group 3 oil instead of the synthetic that the label says it is...

 

[sneakypete]

i agree the synthetic does not cause seals to leak... ill rephrase what i said, older cars with original seals are more prone to leak when you switch to synthetic.
as far as the mobil 1 goes... wow i didnt know that. ive been using mobil 1 forever. but i am very satisfied with the product. i use 5w50 mobil 1 extended performance and it seems to work well for me. when i change the oil at regular intervals its never very dirty. not nearly as "black" as when you change conventional oil. do you know which oil was found to be group 3?
-pete

 

[starscream5000]

Funny that you ask that, IIRC it was the mobil EP line...

Don't judge oil on it color, if it's dark, it's doing it's job. I've got right at 8K on the oil in my DD right now. Penzoil Plat. 5W30. It's had two oil filters on it since this batch of oil, wix filters. The oil is a dark amber color. It's getting changed out this weekend for a fresh batch.

 

[sneakypete]

oh crap... ive got to do some research on this.
i have a dual oil filter relocation with 2 napa gold filters. keeps things pretty clean. i change one of the two filters every oil change. oil is the the same amber color as you described.
Penzoil plat. is also sythetic? Do they have heavier weight oils?
thanks for the info man (sorry to hijack the thread)
-pete

 

[starscream5000]

No Penziol plat. isn't synthetic, but they label it as being so. It's is a Group 3 dino oil, but it is one of, if not the most highly refined group 3 out there. It has a strong add pack and I would consider up to par with a few of the real Group 4 and 5 synthetics.

You don't need a heavier weight oil in the supra, personally, 5W 30 is perfectly fine, I'd use 0W 30 if I could in my DD, but Penzoil doesn't carry that kind (I've got the true synthetic German Castrol 0W 30 for my supra ).

 

[sneakypete]

very interesting info here. ive been using the heavier oil to get me by until i get my new pistons. planning a buildup this winter (hopefully). ive been burning oil mysteriously, but at a slow rate. im gonna try to some redline or royal purple after my mobil 1 is gone.
-pete

 

[starscream5000]

It's not uncommon to see the supra burn 1/2-1 qt. of oil every 3-4000 miles, that's just the nature of the beast. That's also why I do a weekly check before I start it and go, +1 qt. is a good rule of thumb to follow. Try the Redline 5W 30, should be a little better as a street oil compared to what Royal Purple offers as they are more geared towards racing and don't use as much detergents in the oil, which is what's needed in a dd.

 

[jdub]

Couldn't have said it better myself Chris

Pete - if you are running a dual filter head, you are doing little to remove particulates below 20 microns...all you have done is increased the total amount of particulates your filters are capable of removing. If you want to filter down to less than 10 microns, use a Trasko in place of one conventional filter:
http://www.trasko-usa.com/

You will need to replace the filter element about every 3000 miles or so...the 1st few times you do it will give you an idea of the interval. You will be able to see how dirty the filter is when you remove it from the housing...the 1st time will be the worse as it removes nearly all the crap floating around in your oil. This will allow you to run a 8-9000 mile change interval without question...if you do analysis, even longer. Keep changing the conventional filter every 4000 miles or so...Wix is an excellent filter.

Red Line is an excellent oil (ester based)...I agree with Chris that RP is not an oil you really want to run for a DD for the same reason as he stated. Take a look at this thread...I talk about RP in post #3:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38768


Mega - I use a 180 deg SuperStat...works well in hot climates and opens a bit earlier to allow the rad to get ahead of the heat. Don't be tempted to go any lower or you risk the ECU delaying the swap from warm-up enrichment to normal ops mode. I also removed the jiggle valve.

 

[starscream5000]

John: Danke

 

[sneakypete]

great info guys, thanks
i burn about a 1/2 qt every 1500-2000 miles. i check the oil before i start the car... every time... every day, every week. i change the oil at 3000 miles on the nose. when it comes to changing fluids, im always on top of it. im def gonna order a few cases of redline. im pretty sure either my turbo seals or the rings are leaking, thats why i run the heavy oil.

jdub: i understand running napa gold filters only filters down to 20 microns, but from what i understood with turbo cars, particulates smaller than 20 microns are considered negligible with the clearances on our cars. at least from what ive learned at school. filtering out those smaller "abrasives" would definitely help in the long run. but i am one who plays it safe, so better safe than sorry. ill check it out.
thanks
-pete

 

[Nick M]

How is it a decepticon can learn, yet normal people can not? Well done.