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drumminforev
Guest
What exactly are freeze plugs for and where are they located. Im buying this supra turbo and this guys says he replaced 4 or the 12 (according to him) and they blew.
They fill the holes in the block used to support the core for the water jacket during casting. They are the inverted cups looking things down each side of the block. I don't see how you can blow them unless you have mega water pressure, generally they corrode out when they go. HTH
sounds liek he has been over heating the engine. ive never seen them blow out. why did he change them to start with?
It probably has a Blown Head Gasket and the combustion pressure is being forced into the coolant passages in the block and forcing them out. Maybe. Or he put them in backwards?
Personally, I would stay away from that supra.
Personally, I would stay away from that supra.
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drumminforev
Guest
Lol. what could be wrong with it enough to not try to rebuild it? considering im getting the whole car for $500
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drumminforev
Guest
Let me see if i got this right...they are holes in the block that are only there because some type of rods where there holding the block as its casted.
So why exactly are they called freeze plugs if burning hot coolant touches them
Does anyone have pics of where they are located so I can check them out when buying
So why exactly are they called freeze plugs if burning hot coolant touches them
Does anyone have pics of where they are located so I can check them out when buying
they are freeze plugs because if the water in your block freezes, they are pushed out by the water as it expands to allow it somewhere to go so it doesnt crack your block. make sense now? so if the block isnt freezing, then the pressure was increase in another way to push them out, such as overheating or a bhg.
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drumminforev
Guest
Yes i see, probably was blown head gasket.
Is it likely that the block and head would warp from overheating, or just the head.
On a side note... i take it every block on all cars has freeze plugs then right
Is it likely that the block and head would warp from overheating, or just the head.
On a side note... i take it every block on all cars has freeze plugs then right
they are called freeze plugs because they prevent the block from cracking in the case that the coolant inside of it were to freeze. The plugs would blow out instead of cracking the block.
drumminforev said:
All except old VW bugs and pre-996 Porsche 911s, and I wont tell you why:evil2:
There is no way in hell that overpressuring the coolant system from a BHG will blow those out unless they are seriously shot to begin with. You'd split every rubber coolant hose on the engine long before then and let all the pressure out.
The only way I know of to blow the freeze plugs out is to fail to add enough antifreeze in the winter and let the coolant freeze.
The only way I know of to blow the freeze plugs out is to fail to add enough antifreeze in the winter and let the coolant freeze.
Which wouldn't make a whole lot of sense if the car is in arizona?GrimJack said:
What kind of condition is the car in drummin?
If it's got a good body, and good interior and everything, 500 bucks is a pretty good deal.
Give us some details on year and condition, all that good stuff!
^^^ you have the coolest avatar, that pic is awesome! Do you have a full size of that, or know where to get it?
You guys are aware that alot of the off brand freeze plugs do not fit 100% tight, many people have done rebuilds using non-Toyota brand plugs and blown them out shortly after. They end up being 1/64th or something like that too small.
Could be an easy fix with Toyota plugs.
Could be an easy fix with Toyota plugs.
^^^^ This man is correct...Dorman freeze plugs are the most common aftermarket plug. One problem, they are sized on the English (inch) system...Toyota plugs are metric. I measured both and the Dorman plugs are 0.005-0.007" smaller than Toyota. Caused me to blow the plug behind the water pump....all of your coolant drains in a matter of seconds.
Here's something else I found out when replacing the above plug. The plugs are a press fit to a machined surface in the block hole. That surface is recessed about 1/8"...to get the plug to seal properly, it has to be driven in an 1/8" below the outside surface of the block. The first time I replaced this plug, I used a tool from Snap-On...a disk that fit the diameter of the plug and used an air hammer to drive it in:
The problem is this tool stopped when the outside diameter hit the block. I was lucky because I quit for the night and the next morning noticed coolant seeping from the brand new plug. I went over to my spare block and discovered the recessed sealing surface. I had to make a tool on my lathe that would dive the plug in enough to seal properly.
BTW - replacing one of these while the motor is in the car is a royal PITA. There's minimum room to get an air hammer straight to drive a new plug in. If it's not straight or you don't get it deep enough, it will leak or blow again.
Here's something else I found out when replacing the above plug. The plugs are a press fit to a machined surface in the block hole. That surface is recessed about 1/8"...to get the plug to seal properly, it has to be driven in an 1/8" below the outside surface of the block. The first time I replaced this plug, I used a tool from Snap-On...a disk that fit the diameter of the plug and used an air hammer to drive it in:
The problem is this tool stopped when the outside diameter hit the block. I was lucky because I quit for the night and the next morning noticed coolant seeping from the brand new plug. I went over to my spare block and discovered the recessed sealing surface. I had to make a tool on my lathe that would dive the plug in enough to seal properly.
BTW - replacing one of these while the motor is in the car is a royal PITA. There's minimum room to get an air hammer straight to drive a new plug in. If it's not straight or you don't get it deep enough, it will leak or blow again.
Thank you! I was thinking nobody would seriously consider that. You blow one of those plugs and it will likely be over before you know it. I cannot stress enough that you use toyota brand here. Most machine shops will install them for ~$20 or less, if you are doing a rebuild.
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drumminforev
Guest
Hey good info guys.
Update for me!
I bought the car. Sadly, the guy was a total moron and i drove 150 miles looking to buy a 7mgte when its clearly a 7mge. I was like....so wheres the turbo. He pointed at the silver box that says nippon denso on it.
At that point i had to leave and come back the next day. So i desided to buy it anyway. I am making a new thread to get better exposure. Here is the link.
Link to new forum
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?p=487974#post487974
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Update for me!
I bought the car. Sadly, the guy was a total moron and i drove 150 miles looking to buy a 7mgte when its clearly a 7mge. I was like....so wheres the turbo. He pointed at the silver box that says nippon denso on it.
At that point i had to leave and come back the next day. So i desided to buy it anyway. I am making a new thread to get better exposure. Here is the link.
Link to new forum
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?p=487974#post487974
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I did not see this extra info mentioned. Make sure the hole in the block, (the sealing surface is clean from rust and debris) sandpaper will work. You can put some sealer (FIPG) on the circumferance of the plug before installing for some extra insurance. A properly sized socket works well, it must be close to the size of the plug. You do not want to disform the plug.