Went to the drag strip for the first time ever, put down some crappy times, advice?

IndigoMKII

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May 9, 2011
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My manual car is the same way. Ghetto hardpipes(PO used exhaust piping to piece together hardpipe) apexi intake and borla catback with a ct2657 and it's trying to max out the gauge with boost leaks.
 

Turbo Habanero

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Apr 28, 2009
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Hmm. Well I have a Apexi avcr and when i turn it off and run waste gate pressure I get like 6.5 Psi sometimes it will hit 10psi.

And i have bigger intercooler 2.5 inch pipes
3inch exhaust 3inch open elbow
Apexi power intake
Lex Afm mod and bunch of other crap lol.
 

NewGen

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Turbo Habanero;1860066 said:
Hmm. Well I have a Apexi avcr and when i turn it off and run waste gate pressure I get like 6.5 Psi sometimes it will hit 10psi.

And i have bigger intercooler 2.5 inch pipes
3inch exhaust 3inch open elbow
Apexi power intake
Lex Afm mod and bunch of other crap lol.

Auto or 5 speed? not sure if the gear length might effect the load between the two? Just a thought.
 

Nick M

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emiliorescigno;1860026 said:
It seems like a totally backwards idea to limit a car's performance just because you commute with it most of the time.

Try telling that to the company that produces the Camry and Corolla as its bread and butter.

te72;1860038 said:
I As for the ECT, I seemed to get better mileage out of it with it turned ON, and the car would hold the gear a bit longer with it on (at partial throttle levels), as opposed to shifting as soon as possible.

If you don't step on the accelerator pedal as hard, the transmission will upshift anyway because it thinks you are in no hurry. The TPS signal has replaced the throttle valve cable in this transmission. The throttle valve attached to the TV cable would delay upshift until the governor built enough pressure to force the shift valve the other way. The better milage comes from not having as heavy of a load. That doesn't work with steady state cruising, only acceleration.

edit: I forgot a word.
 
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7MGTEsup

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So am I reading this right? You have a full turbo back exhaust but still running 7psi boost? Get that boost cranked up to just below fuel cut and the car will come alive. If you want to raise fuel cut a tad drill out the aluminium bung on the side of AFM and wind the screw out till its all the way out (but still in the tread a turn of two) Get yourself some good tyres to as you can make up alot of time on the launch.
 

Turbo Habanero

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7MGTEsup;1860364 said:
If you want to raise fuel cut a tad drill out the aluminium bung on the side of AFM and wind the screw out till its all the way out (but still in the tread a turn of two)

Wait this works?

If its does and anyone decides to do this please get a wide band too.
 

7MGTEsup

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Turbo Habanero;1860376 said:
Wait this works?

If its does and anyone decides to do this please get a wide band too.

It does work as it alows some air to bypass the sensor, Did it on my car with a wideband years ago and the afr's were still in the low 11's even at 14psi.
 

emiliorescigno

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Sep 17, 2006
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7MGTEsup;1860364 said:
So am I reading this right? You have a full turbo back exhaust but still running 7psi boost? Get that boost cranked up to just below fuel cut and the car will come alive. If you want to raise fuel cut a tad drill out the aluminium bung on the side of AFM and wind the screw out till its all the way out (but still in the tread a turn of two) Get yourself some good tyres to as you can make up a lot of time on the launch.

That is correct that I am running the car off of wastegate with a full turbo-back exhaust, no boost controller.

RazoE;1860367 said:
Get a downpipe, upgraded IC and piping and you'll be amazed at how much of a difference it makes.

My previous Supra had a full turbo-back exhaust, IC/piping, boost controller, and all those "basic" modifications, so I have a pretty good idea of what the car would be like.


I think for now I should stress that my objective with the car is not to just crank the best quarter mile times possible out of it, but rather make sure that the car is running correctly in stock form, as well as get the driver well practiced.

I feel that I shouldn't have to do any sort of modification to the car in order to match the stock quarter mile times provided I work on being more skilled as a driver and the car is running exactly as it should. I tend to be very slow and deliberate with my actions concerning car modifications, so don't expect big waves very quickly :)

It's been a busy week for me, so I haven't been working on the car much. Hopefully I'll have some time this weekend to get some things done. Who knows, I MIGHT even modify something. :icon_razz
 

getzke

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emiliorescigno;1860507 said:
That is correct that I am running the car off of wastegate with a full turbo-back exhaust, no boost controller.



My previous Supra had a full turbo-back exhaust, IC/piping, boost controller, and all those "basic" modifications, so I have a pretty good idea of what the car would be like.


I think for now I should stress that my objective with the car is not to just crank the best quarter mile times possible out of it, but rather make sure that the car is running correctly in stock form, as well as get the driver well practiced.

I feel that I shouldn't have to do any sort of modification to the car in order to match the stock quarter mile times provided I work on being more skilled as a driver and the car is running exactly as it should. I tend to be very slow and deliberate with my actions concerning car modifications, so don't expect big waves very quickly :)

It's been a busy week for me, so I haven't been working on the car much. Hopefully I'll have some time this weekend to get some things done. Who knows, I MIGHT even modify something. :icon_razz

Amen.
 

Nick M

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My 1991 with the A340e at 3900 lbs with me and fuel ran a 15.5 @ 92 with the down pipe and exhaust. With the manual boost controller set to 13 psi (and the Lex meter for fuel cut) I ran 14.8 @ 98.
 

te72

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emiliorescigno;1860507 said:
I feel that I shouldn't have to do any sort of modification to the car in order to match the stock quarter mile times provided I work on being more skilled as a driver and the car is running exactly as it should. I tend to be very slow and deliberate with my actions concerning car modifications, so don't expect big waves very quickly :)
Keep in mind, I doubt many tests of the stock car were using the automatic for acceleration times. ;)

emiliorescigno;1860507 said:
It's been a busy week for me, so I haven't been working on the car much. Hopefully I'll have some time this weekend to get some things done. Who knows, I MIGHT even modify something. :icon_razz
Where's that "careful guys, we got a badass in here" picture when you need it? :p

Seriously though, always better to take your time and do things right.
 

Turbo Habanero

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te72;1860803 said:
Where's that "careful guys, we got a badass in here" picture when you need it? :p

p1860827_1.jpg
 

emiliorescigno

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Sep 17, 2006
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A quick update guys:
I changed the oil and spark plugs, as well as made sure the transmission fluid was at the right level. Things didn't seem to change that much.

I did make a pretty interesting discovery today however. I popped on the top IC pipe from my friend's car today (username: getzke), and it really did change the car's behavior. By just replacing the upper IC pipe, the car now pulls through the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts without hitting fuel cut (it sometimes would, but didn't at the track), and the car easily pushed the stock boost gauge well past the top of the gauge (over 8psi).

I'm pretty confident the upper bonded plastic section is starting to split and was causing a minor boost leak, so now I'm going to try to hunt down a nice replacement. I'm pretty picky about how my car looks/works, and I'm not a big fan of the flashy polished IC pipes, so I may just try to get a stock replacement for now.

Next drag day is on September 15th, so I'll come back with some (hopefully improved) results!
 

te72

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emiliorescigno;1867683 said:
I'm pretty confident the upper bonded plastic section is starting to split and was causing a minor boost leak, so now I'm going to try to hunt down a nice replacement. I'm pretty picky about how my car looks/works, and I'm not a big fan of the flashy polished IC pipes, so I may just try to get a stock replacement for now.

Next drag day is on September 15th, so I'll come back with some (hopefully improved) results!
Cooleze made a nice metal pipe set for our cars, I had them on my car when it was a 7m car. Looks nice, just a plain aluminized steel, no bling, just what you need. :)
 

IndigoMKII

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emiliorescigno;1867683 said:
A quick update guys:
I changed the oil and spark plugs, as well as made sure the transmission fluid was at the right level. Things didn't seem to change that much.

I did make a pretty interesting discovery today however. I popped on the top IC pipe from my friend's car today (username: getzke), and it really did change the car's behavior. By just replacing the upper IC pipe, the car now pulls through the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts without hitting fuel cut (it sometimes would, but didn't at the track), and the car easily pushed the stock boost gauge well past the top of the gauge (over 8psi).

I'm pretty confident the upper bonded plastic section is starting to split and was causing a minor boost leak, so now I'm going to try to hunt down a nice replacement. I'm pretty picky about how my car looks/works, and I'm not a big fan of the flashy polished IC pipes, so I may just try to get a stock replacement for now.

Next drag day is on September 15th, so I'll come back with some (hopefully improved) results!

You could always powder coat the pipes.
 

mk2 supra

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You just now mentioned fuel cut at 7 psi and you're still hunting? That's a red flag if i ever saw one. Boost leak test for sure that's your problem