Well, She's hurt :'( -Mystery of the sudden #2 no-compression misfire solved

Txsupra

Professional Driver
Aug 23, 2008
239
0
0
42
Texas
Have the injectors sonic cleaned and or flow tested. Might give you some piece of mind.
 

MikesFixedRoof

New Member
Mar 23, 2009
134
0
0
Queens, NY
Txsupra;1438132 said:
Have the injectors sonic cleaned and or flow tested. Might give you some piece of mind.

Any idea how much that costs? Rebuilt toyota injectors are about 35 bucks each. I bought a new o2 sensor yesterday for the hell of it.
 

MikesFixedRoof

New Member
Mar 23, 2009
134
0
0
Queens, NY
Suprapowaz!(2);1438128 said:
That looks very clean. Did you lube up the journals? I'd lube everything that makes contact with each other in there.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=52
You can get a tube/jar of cam and lifter assembly lube. Cheap insurance.

The machinist lubed it up with what looks like redline for when he did the assembly/valve adjustment, but I'll definitely give it a little more before I button it all up. :icon_bigg she likes it the lube.
 

adampecush

Regular Supramaniac
May 11, 2006
2,118
3
38
Edmonton
MikesFixedRoof;1439277 said:
Any idea how much that costs? Rebuilt toyota injectors are about 35 bucks each. I bought a new o2 sensor yesterday for the hell of it.

cost me $9/injector to have done locally.

It was well worth it as they found that one of the injectors was stuck closed (likely from ~3 years of not running).
 

MikesFixedRoof

New Member
Mar 23, 2009
134
0
0
Queens, NY
-UPDATE- Ok... so since I last posted, I ended up bending the shit out of the factory turbo oil pipe. It just pissed oil no matter what. So I ordered suprasport.com's easy install kit. The only downside was that it took about a month for me to get it. It was installed in 20 minutes, came complete, and seals nicely.
I finally finished the car by mid Dcember, and from then till about mid January, everything was perfect.
Then one morning, while driving to work, I realize I have no heat. Then I see the temp gauge somwhere between the half way point & the Hot mark and its still rising. The next second, it suddenly shoots back down to half way. I was pissed. New toyota thermostat, coolant, and fan clutch. Plus i made sure i bled the system of air as best i could buy jacking the nose up and cracking loose the cold start injector sensor on the thermostat housing till i saw no more air. So i wrote this off as air trapped in the system. In the following days it would do it again erratically, or it wouldnt and it would be fine & i would have heat.
Finally one day the gauge went up past half way and wouldnt come down. I pull off the road and check the rad. Nothing but steam/air comes out, yet the overflow tank is past full and bleeding coolant out. Now i realize this is not an air bubble problem.
I go back to the shop where i did the work and have the shop owner look at it since im pretty stumped at this point. He says combustion (hydrocarbons) is getting into the cooling system somehow. But some specific brand coolant (like toyota coolant) can sometimes have HC in the mix. So we call the shop that rebuilt the head to confirm they did pressure test it for cracks, and check it for any warpage, which they did, and that it was good. The guy there also suggested i retorque the head. I had torqued the bolts (new arp) to 75ft lbs, which was what arp recommended, and as the motor is stock (new oem hg) and stock boost, i figured it should be fine, but apparently not.
I guess it couldnt hurt to re torque the head, but i would really appreciate any help/advice from my fellow surpramaniacs.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
SM Expert
Feb 10, 2006
10,730
1
38
Valley of the Sun
MikesFixedRoof;1435023 said:
I agree. Although nothing less than 93 goes in my tank, you can't completely avoid carbon deposits on 19 year old valves. Let's also remember that our antiques with their port fuel injection are more or less spraying hot fuel onto really really hot valves:: angry :::icon_bigg

Ummmm...might want to think how really ignorant this sounds. If your mechanic/machinist told you this, you have found your problem.


MikesFixedRoof;1510339 said:
A BHG?! But how?

What brand OEM HG? Was the block deck checked for warp-age? FYI - the 75 ft/lbs ARP recommends for their head bolts is plenty. I'll be honest (after reading this thread) - it looks like your mechanic screwed the pooch on the install and is coming up with all kind of rational as to why it's not his fault. I don't care if he builds "race motors" or not - the 7M is very unforgiving of improper technique or failure to follow the TSRM to the letter. Since mechanics like this think they "know it all", references the book is for rookies (at least in their mind). Ends up causing all kinds of trouble, which is not their fault of course.
 

hornet7288

Member
Oct 18, 2005
260
0
16
36
Savannah, GA
Representin burned valves...

p1510740_1.jpg
 

MikesFixedRoof

New Member
Mar 23, 2009
134
0
0
Queens, NY
jdub;1510351 said:
Ummmm...might want to think how really ignorant this sounds. If your mechanic/machinist told you this, you have found your problem.

My fault. I wasn't being very clear. I wasn't quoting either my mechanic or the machinist. I also didn't mean to imply that that was the root cause of my burnt valve. The deterioration of the valve seat and improper sealing of the valve due to excessive heat, ethanol-blended fuel, tired valve spring, etc is most likely what caused it. However my injectors were in fact leaking quite badly and that's why I think I found quite a bit of carbon build up when I pulled off the head.
 

MikesFixedRoof

New Member
Mar 23, 2009
134
0
0
Queens, NY
jdub;1510351 said:
What brand OEM HG? Was the block deck checked for warp-age? FYI - the 75 ft/lbs ARP recommends for their head bolts is plenty. I'll be honest (after reading this thread) - it looks like your mechanic screwed the pooch on the install and is coming up with all kind of rational as to why it's not his fault. I don't care if he builds "race motors" or not - the 7M is very unforgiving of improper technique or failure to follow the TSRM to the letter. Since mechanics like this think they "know it all", references the book is for rookies (at least in their mind). Ends up causing all kinds of trouble, which is not their fault of course.

I very quickly check the block deck with the straight edge for warping and it looked fine. In addition to that, since the machinist had told me there was no cracking or warping on the head (and aluminum being so much more prone to warp than the iron block) AND my low miles, AND never having serious overheating problems, I thought nothing of it. Perhaps this was my Supra Noobishness getting the best of me.

I have heard of people insisting that without going back in and at the very least checking the head bolt torque after the engine goes through a few heat cycles, the HG will let go. I hadn't done it since I figured the 75 ft lbs would more than compensate me for any head bolt stretching that might occur.

It was a complete head gasket kit, from either Rock Auto or Arrow, I don't remember. The machinist had got it from his supplier. That way he'd have all the replacement seals for putting the head back together. I remember comparing the new hg to the old one (original Toyota) and it did LOOK identical... FYI my 7M had just passed 70,000 miles when the burnt valve occured. and certainly appeared to have never been opened up before. I did the work at my mechanic's shop (he's a family friend) and he did help me at times. But I essentially did the work, and I was constantly checking the tsrm throughout the tear down and assembly, so I can't really blame him. He's a certified Honda master tech, but he's been working on more or less everything for 40 years plus and is familiar with the Toyota M-engines, so I took his advice when he gave it. Oh, and he never referenced the tsrm as being for rookies :) .
The machinist was another guy that my mechanic recommended who does a lot of import work, both European and Japanese.

So. Next move?
 

MikesFixedRoof

New Member
Mar 23, 2009
134
0
0
Queens, NY
I can't stand driving the car like this. I'm sure it can't be very good for it either. Any suggestions on what I should do? Do I try re-torquing the head? or should I pull it apart again? Does anyone know of a good 7M repair guy in the NYC area?