went up to my shop today, cranked over the beast, she was idleng fine as always waiting for her to worm up after about 5 min.. I hear clanking and ratling sounds really small like somthing ratling in the intake, I quickly turn her of and remove the upper IC pipe, smoke is rolling out of the TB check the compressor wheel...nope all fins intaked, tried to crank her over again, nastiny grinding sound so I didn't even get past 2 cranks didn't want to mess anyting else up, I think a small peice of aluminum got sucked in the intake and is keeping a vavle open, not sure tho these heads are none collision heads correct? so I shouldn't have bent a valve, I will remove the head as soon as I get a chance just hop she is still salvagable..what do you think happend?
well.....she broke :icon_sad:
- Thread starter BoostFreak
- Start date
if timing belt snaps you will not bend a valve. check ur compression. sounds similar to what happened to my buddies car
If the 7mgte won't bend the valves then take the timing cover off and inspect or even crank. If the belt is snapped you should be able to tell. If it's missing alot of teeth in one spot it will rock back and fourth while your cranking it. If either of those occurs, replace timing belt. Do the compression test that Justin suggested also.
not the timing, belt is still intack and not messing any teath, makes a horible sound when I tried to crank it so I'm afraid to keep turning it over..
im tellin ya man do a compression test. My buddy had the same symptoms and lets just say he got a wild hair up his ass to go 1jz now that his 7m is toasted. only #1 had comprssion. 120psi.
I'm just scared to start it tho I don't want to mess up the head any more than it alread is. is it posible that a small aluminum shaving from the IC piping I cut (I though I got it all off but) could have done this, should I try starting it again and see if I can just flush it out?
no. compression test it first. also while u got the plugs out get a little small led mechanics light thats bendable and such and stick down in the hole and see if u see anything in there...
just turn it over by hand then? and if I find low or no compression in on cylender what then I still think a peice of aluminum is stuck on a valve and keeping it open I just don't want to be rebuilding a head or replacing a valve or anything
u can if u'd like but take the plugs out first and view down in there and see if you see any foreign objects
/\ thats what I thought, but I can see the timing belt and its fine, just not sure what could of happend posibly somthing with the tranny or anything just when I cranked it over it was almost a grinding sound like when you turn the starter over while the car is running..I just don't know of anything bigger than a small peice of aluminum shaving. how big a peice would it take to do this if any could because I went over all of it with a hand fiel and sand paper so nothing bigger than 1-2 mm could have been left
i had the front lip of the lower timing gear pop off and it made a rattleing clanking noise similar to what you described only lower... just a thought,
also how is the play in your turbo shaft?
also how is the play in your turbo shaft?
Even if a fairly large bit went in all that would happen is it might get stuck under a valve and cause a compression leak in that cylinder and it would idle really badly.
Something else has let go to be making that sort of noise
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Something else has let go to be making that sort of noise
.got ya, yeah the shaft play on the turbo is perfict it is nice and tight, poop this is frustrating
found out what it was, the crank timing gear rear guide had decentigrated and the timing belt moved all the way to the back and became aroun 100 or so degrees off time thats why it was detonating in the intake manifold, so I will be replacing that soon, is the dealer the best place to buy it from? oh and just to make sure these arn't collison heads like all other ge series heads right? shouldn't have damiged anything should it off being off time that much?
I was closest.. lol No it wont hurt the valves, they are non interferance engines.. Jeff says the belt is 28-38$ at the dealer, I called mine today and was told $45.. but call around..I dont think they vary much from brand to brand....
lol No it wont hurt the valves, they are non interferance engines.. Jeff says the belt is 28-38$ at the dealer, I called mine today and was told $45.. but call around..I dont think they vary much from brand to brand....yeah i have the belt its the crank geear that I need and conilie parts want like $48 plus shipping for it, but I don't think the dealer will be much more