well-running NA?

[Clip]

you always hear about those great condition NA supras that surprise the turbos, but i've never seen one/rode in one in person because there i am one of the only NA's for miles around. anyone here have an NA that pulls really strong? what have you done to it/cleaned and serviced to make it run like new? i've got 188k miles on mine and i'm sure something can be done to make it a little newer.

sorry for the drawn out question, ill clarify later if needed.

 

[Ma70.Ent]

you always hear about those great condition NA supras that surprise the turbos, but i've never seen one/rode in one in person because there i am one of the only NA's for miles around. anyone here have an NA that pulls really strong? what have you done to it/cleaned and serviced to make it run like new? i've got 188k miles on mine and i'm sure something can be done to make it a little newer.

sorry for the drawn out question, ill clarify later if needed.

My bro's N/A pulled like a champ. IIRC he beat a turbo auto on a roll. My N/A pulls pretty good too, for what it has.

I think it's due to the fact that he had a rebuilt engine, while I have a supposed "low mileage jdm" engine, with a fresh hg (means that I have good compression).

 

[Clip]

will a compression test help me diagnose it? i know theyre talking two diff compressions but its got to tell me something, right

 

[Ma70.Ent]

will a compression test help me diagnose it? i know theyre talking two diff compressions but its got to tell me something, right

Diagnose what?

 

[Clip]

sorry, wrong term. id like to try and have a baseline to test my supra on, maybe against others on the forum. certain tests like compression, fuel pressure and the like might help.

i suppose the best way is to find a dyno in the area and make a few pulls to see how things are doing.

 

[Ma70.Ent]

I *think* that good compression numbers are 150 or higher, and the compression between the cylinders should all be pretty close (difference of less than 5-10%?). Some stuff to replace if compression is low would be the headgasket, exhaust valve, or just do a rebuild (replace gaskets/piston rings).

 

[suprarx7nut]

First hand experience both driving and riding in CRE's N/A here!

It pulls hard. If I can end up with a reliable N/A as fast as his, I'll be perfectly happy.

It sounds like Cuel, AJ and one or two others here have some quick N/A's.

I'll try to join the club of fast(er) N/A's within the year. We'll see how it goes...

 

[Clip]

how do you plan to do that? i dont know much more to do than a 2.5" exhaust, headers, port and polish but ive heard a few guys mention their NAs pull hard stock.

 

[Ma70.Ent]

how do you plan to do that? i dont know much more to do than a 2.5" exhaust, headers, port and polish but ive heard a few guys mention their NAs pull hard stock.

The reason I have the N/A Upgrade FAQ is because I've researched a lot of our possibilities, but if you're looking for noticeable/decent performance gains, then pretty much here's what counts the most IMO:

Properly sized Header/Exhaust, TB, Driveshaft ...then consider changing out Intake and going MAP/MAF and getting a good tune. After that, you can try getting reflective wrap around the intake piping to keep heat away from it (or even more expensive, ceramic coating it) and you can also ceramic coat/thermal wrap (although wrap not recommended for the header/exhaust manifold because it will trap moisture and your header/exhaust manifold will rust like no tomorrow) the header/exhaust manifold to keep the heat away from the intake some more, and stuff I've read about exhaust "theory" says that keeping heat in their helps increase velocity due to increased kinetic energy. If you're manual, get a lightweight flywheel. If you're auto, do the accumulator shim mod. Finally, if all else fails, just make the car lighter, or go on a diet yourself

Keep in mind Ceramic coating isn't exactly cheap, and neither is port and polishing, which is why I recommended the idea of wrapping the intake and not the header/exhaust manifold, unless you somehow protect it from rust.

or just go turbo after you decide I/H/E isn't good enough.

 

[BorHor]

Pull hard? nah. But you can feel a tug.

 

[cuel]

I have most of the bolt-ons done. Header, exhaust, intake, ignition, and working on finishing the suspension. Only thing I'm missing is the MaftPro. I cleaned everything when I did the head gasket a few years ago. It pulls good. I've taken a stock 88 G.T. Mustang. If that girl would have known when to shift, she could have got me, maybe. I've run a couple others, and it's usually real close, one way or the other. Usually depends on who gets the better hole shot.

I'd start with a rebuild, first thing. Fresh bearings, crank, rods, and block all checked at a reputable machine shop, and resized if necessary. New head gasket torqued to 72 ft. lbs.(stock bolts), or ARP bolts torqued to their specs. Don't think a m.h.g. is necessary here, unless you plan going turbo later. You could upgrade to forged rods, and higher c.r. pistons as well, if you have the money.

I have a new long block I'm building for my n/a car. Removed every casting mark on the block, inside and out, stock rods and pistons(balanced to within .5 grams). I ported the head, had a valve job done, new springs(Comp upgrade), 264 cams, and all the shims replaced. Also had the oil holes in the cam journals beveled a bit to remove all the sharp edges. I have many, many, many hours spent on the block, head, rods, and pistons. I hope to have it completed by the end of April.

All cars that are being modified have certain things in common: Time, and Money. If you don't have either, or a lot of one, don't bother.

 

[Clip]

appreciate the post cuel, helps a lot

 

[SupaMan]

everybody whos riden in my car says it pulls hard my brother and i are both into supras and he said it deffenatly pulled harder than his 20 over ported and polished 89 n/a.

i cant judge my own car tho because im biased.

 

[Guyana00]

I think that if you're in it for the long haul, as soon as you get the money/time, rebuild the engine with quality components. I think for an N/A, OEM would do well, but upgrades to certain things are worth the extra, and sometimes it doesn't cost much more to do it anyways.

After doing the internals there's little left to do. CAI (thermal wrapped), I/H/E, and as far as weight reduction there's pretty much nothing to take out of a daily driver worth any weight reduction. The front seats, especially the driver's, is debatable. Some people find them incredibly comfortable, but then again there are aftermarket ones that are light too. Then it can be argued back and forth about the power options for the seats....

Anyways, my advice is to source parts and save up for a rebuild. The hard part might be finding time to pull the engine and work on it, because there will be at least a weekend of downtime, with all parts and tool in hand. This will only happen if you really do know what you are doing. If you're not then you need more time and might need to find something to drive.

In the end, it's up to you, if you want more than a built N/A will give you then forget about it and work on getting a GTE. You may also find that your current engine runs nice and satisfies your needs.

Any plans in mind?

 

[Clip]

plans: bust my ass all summer, build up the bank acct so when i decide what to do i can do it right. it runs great now, doesnt pull too hard so maybe 1j in the future

 

[DegreE]

I got 233k miles. Doing a Cometic headgasket next month and going NA->T.

Wish me luck.



For the miles I have now, she's driving pretty smooth. I did new spark plugs and wires, fixed all the vacuum leaks, cleaned the AICV and Throttle body. Car is 100% stock.

 

[ValgeKotkas]

I've just rebuilt the engine (though 40k old rings) and put on a ported head.
Well...it pulls a lot better than before the rebuild