Well Crap!!!! help me plz

[turbotrev]

the machine shop that i took my block to had it REALLY smooth

when i did run my finger nail across it i couldnt feel a damn thing so i had my dad, mother and sister check it so i could have a comparison to what i felt and they could find anything.

ill get my stud trq up to 81ft/lbs and see if that does the trick.

and if not ill just run it for a bit not run it hard just keeping the rpms to 3k max and buy a beater so i can fix it:icon_mad:

oh well i hope it fixes it and jdub ill get the pics after i eat then ill post up after i get them or tomorrow if time permits

trev

 

[turbotrev]

pic for jdub

as of right now i trqed them down to 85ft/lbs and if that doesnt work oh well its gotta be for the time being.

also jdub if you want the original and the modified one in its original size just pm

thnx
trev

 

[jdub]

That's right below the coolant return line that wraps around the block correct? How close is the seep to the front of the motor and are you running a CT26 or other turbo with coolant lines?

The good part is it doesn't look like a very big seep...surprised you even saw it

 

[turbotrev]

well that one is the only one i could really see but there was som sepage on the other side too.

im running ct26 and there is one leak from the water pump that a bolt is not tight enough at.

thats at like cyl# 4 i think the other side i really can see where its coming from tho

 

[jdub]

What I was thinking you might want to check...make sure there is no coolant following the pipe from a leak at the back of the water pump housing or the small 90 deg hose that connects the hard pipe to the housing.

Other places that can leak are the coolant hoses to the turbo, especially the top one.

On the intake side of the block, there are the coolant hoses that go from the small branch of the same block hard line to the TB, ISC valve, down to a fitting on the bottom of the #2 runner. If that #2 runner fitting is leaking or didn't seal against the head, it will look like it's coming from the head itself

I would still re-torque the head just to be sure. Just barely "crack" the stud nut counterclockwise (don't use your torque wrench to do this part), then start your torque using the TRSM pattern at say 70 ft/lbs...then 75 ft/lbs...then finally to 81 ft/lbs

 

[steve_mk3]

also did you have the front timing cover machined with the block? if the Timing cover is not level with the block deck you will not seal.

?

 

[jdub]

^^^ This is a very good question too

 

[turbotrev]

i dont think i had it done but im might of left it on when i took the block there :dunno:

so that could be that cause of it???

 

[JustAnotherVictim]

Very much.
The head won't sit flush with the block.

 

[turbotrev]

GODDAMNITSONOFABITCHMOTHERFUCKERCOCKBAGSHITFUCKERASSWHOLEDUCHEBAG!!!!!!!!!

ok im done ranting now

man thats gunna suck taking everything apart to get it machined SHIT:icon_mad:

 

[steve_mk3]

yes it is very inportant. The front of the head sits right on top of the inner front timing cover. If the cover is taller than the block deck you will have leaks in the front area.

Think of it this way, your going to take it apart so much faster this time If anything was bothering you about the first rebuild you get to fix that also.

Good luck

 

[mdr40z]

man thats gunna suck taking everything apart to get it machined SHIT:icon_mad:

You must be like me, I have to do everything twice, if there's any colsolation it's always easier the second time around :sonic:

 

[turbotrev]

no this will be the third time of taking everything apart or somewhat of that!!

thank god i got my father to help me